318 2bbl Rebuild

[harrytoes]

I know there are hundreds of these posts but mine might be a bit different.

I went to start my 68 Barracuda (stock 2bbl 318) yestesterday and blast of water and white smoke blew out the the pipe. Figured the worst, so I checked the water level, couldn't see any. Checked the oil, looked like a McDonald's chocolate shake. Probably just a head gasket but might as well do a light rebuild while I'm at it. Clean, paint and fix anything that might be broken.

My dad bought this car brand new and has been in our family ever since. It's pretty much stock so no radical changes. Im keeping the 2bbl and stock manifolds (intake and exhaust). I am going to switch to dual exhaust pipes though.

Just wondering if there is anything I should do internally to spice things up a bit (cam, lifters, etc..)?

 

[318willrun]

I'll start with this:

• Use a good timing set
• A really good valve job and hardened seats

 

[Hellrats]

A "RV" type camshaft

 

[junkyardhero]

+1 to @318willrun suggestions.

i'd recommend a throwing in a 360 2bbl cam (or something similar) while you're there-- you can have yours re-ground and the lifters refaced.

but beyond a good timing set, fresh oil pump (and pick up!), hardened exhaust seats and having the heads gone thru it's hard to say what else you might be looking at until you get the motor open.

hope for minimal wear and you can get away with a re-ring-- the early motors already had decent compression. but if you need to go next over, there's tons of options piston wise for what you're trying to do. how spicy you wanna get (*cough* lighter pistons *pistons*) really depends on budget.

ETA: on the duals, get with TTI. they sell a complete kit from head pipes to exhaust tips and the fit is absolutely spot on.

 

[krazykuda]

I know there are hundreds of these posts but mine might be a bit different.

I went to start my 68 Barracuda (stock 2bbl 318) yestesterday and blast of water and white smoke blew out the the pipe. Figured the worst, so I checked the water level, couldn't see any. Checked the oil, looked like a McDonald's chocolate shake. Probably just a head gasket but might as well do a light rebuild while I'm at it. Clean, paint and fix anything that might be broken.

My dad bought this car brand new and has been in our family ever since. It's pretty much stock so no radical changes. Im keeping the 2bbl and stock manifolds (intake and exhaust). I am going to switch to dual exhaust pipes though.

Just wondering if there is anything I should do internally to spice things up a bit (cam, lifters, etc..)?

Replace the timing chain with a double roller, like a stock 340 chain or better...

Dual exhaust...

 

[krazykuda]

I know there are hundreds of these posts but mine might be a bit different.

I went to start my 68 Barracuda (stock 2bbl 318) yestesterday and blast of water and white smoke blew out the the pipe. Figured the worst, so I checked the water level, couldn't see any. Checked the oil, looked like a McDonald's chocolate shake. Probably just a head gasket but might as well do a light rebuild while I'm at it. Clean, paint and fix anything that might be broken.

My dad bought this car brand new and has been in our family ever since. It's pretty much stock so no radical changes. Im keeping the 2bbl and stock manifolds (intake and exhaust). I am going to switch to dual exhaust pipes though.

Just wondering if there is anything I should do internally to spice things up a bit (cam, lifters, etc..)?

I have a series of how-to articles on how to rebuild a small block...


They are broken up into chapters, start where you need to and then go on...


Here's if you are going to start from the beginning...

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep


Here's the crankshaft install then move forward...

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install


Here's the timing chain info...

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 9A (Optional): Timing Chain Options

Install timing chain...

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 10: Install Timing Chain

 

[volaredon]

+1 to @318willrun suggestions.

i'd recommend a throwing in a 360 2bbl cam (or something similar) while you're there-- you can have yours re-ground and the lifters refaced.

but beyond a good timing set, fresh oil pump (and pick up!), hardened exhaust seats and having the heads gone thru it's hard to say what else you might be looking at until you get the motor open.

hope for minimal wear and you can get away with a re-ring-- the early motors already had decent compression. but if you need to go next over, there's tons of options piston wise for what you're trying to do. how spicy you wanna get (*cough* lighter pistons *pistons*) really depends on budget.

ETA: on the duals, get with TTI. they sell a complete kit from head pipes to exhaust tips and the fit is absolutely spot on.

360-2bbl cam
I've used a couple of those in 318s that are driven regularly. It will be a noticeable improvement, by seat if the pants. You want a melling SPD 25.

Also... That cam is IDENTICAL to a COMP 252... I trust melling over comp these days. Good chance to find some old stock somewhere. Only difference is 0.015 less lift of the 360-2bbl cam vs the comp. Not enough to notice. The rest of the specs between these 2 cams are dead nuts IDENTICAL.
Only difference I've seen is in price. I've been able to find the spd25, first in a hole in the wall parts warehouse in Chicago (can't remember name or address as that one has been too many years ago, I drove down and bought it over the counter) the 2nd was eBay. But the melling is like 1/4-1/3 of the cost of the COMP version.

 

[junkyardhero]

360-2bbl cam
I've used a couple of those in 318s that are driven regularly. It will be a noticeable improvement, by seat if the pants. You want a melling SPD 25.

Also... That cam is IDENTICAL to a COMP 252... I trust melling over comp these days. Good chance to find some old stock somewhere. Only difference is 0.015 less lift of the 360-2bbl cam vs the comp. Not enough to notice. The rest of the specs between these 2 cams are dead nuts IDENTICAL.
Only difference I've seen is in price. I've been able to find the spd25, first in a hole in the wall parts warehouse in Chicago (can't remember name or address as that one has been too many years ago, I drove down and bought it over the counter) the 2nd was eBay. But the melling is like 1/4-1/3 of the cost of the COMP version.

the melling spd 25 specs: 278* (203@50) .409 108/111
comp 252 specs: 252* (206@50) .425 110

that's is not an "identical" cam.

 

[volaredon]

Huh. You've found different numbers than what I did at the time.... I remember different than what you're showing.
Either way I've run the melling and it did me great.
Huh I just looked and yeah they must have changed things up... As I remember going thru all of the homework when I bought my first one of those cams..
Maybe it was the factory service manual specs for a late 70s 360-2 I was looking at? It's been a while since I dug into that ..

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would not. If you retain the two barrel and "spice it up a bit" the engine will need more than the carburetor can deliver, especially with good flow dual exhaust. So keep it stock.

 

[volaredon]

Depends on how much "a bit" turns out to be

 

[1MeanA]

Its a slippery slope. What's you're budget? I'm not sure what a head rebuild runs down there but they start at $1000 (USD) up here. If the cylinder bores are worn then its going to get really expensive. That's when you start considering spending money on a different engine if you don't mind not having the original in it.

 

[cudamark]

I'd start by pulling the timing cover to see if it was why you got water mixed into the oil. A very common problem with aluminum covers.

 

[harrytoes]

Well, I'm going to be working with my local machine shop to get this back on the road. With the way this car was built 318/ 2bbl/ auto(727)/ rear end, any attempt to make it spicy leads to another change. It is a one-owner car with no upgrades and the original engine and drivetrain.

So far this is what I've come up with.
1. New RV cam
2. Timing chain
3. Oil pump
4. Valve job, maybe rebuild the heads will have to see
5. Hopefully the block won't need much work
5. Sticking with the original Carter 2bbl but may switch to a bigger Holley 2bbl.

 

[cudamark]

Original transmission should be a 904, not 727. If it's staying fairly stock, I'd keep the Carter carb. Holley's are more trouble IMO. With stock manifolds, no advantage to the Holley anyway.

 

[junkyardhero]

Well, I'm going to be working with my local machine shop to get this back on the road. With the way this car was built 318/ 2bbl/ auto(727)/ rear end, any attempt to make it spicy leads to another change. It is a one-owner car with no upgrades and the original engine and drivetrain.

So far this is what I've come up with.
1. New RV cam
2. Timing chain
3. Oil pump
4. Valve job, maybe rebuild the heads will have to see
5. Hopefully the block won't need much work
5. Sticking with the original Carter 2bbl but may switch to a bigger Holley 2bbl.

insist on a true double roller timing set.

careful selection on the cam, a lot of those RV grinds are designed with big, heavy vehicles in mind that generally have lower compression and deep gears. be very explicit with your machine shop (if that's who's choosing for you) with what your expectations are and the type of driving that you will be doing.

oh, and skip the holley 2bbl.

 

[harrytoes]

So it has been a while since I updated this post. A lot of work has been done. The engine was completely rebuilt by a local machine shop. Thanks, Clarks Automotive. The rebuild was very mild. I went with a stock cam and minor boring. I kept the 2 bbl intake and Carter carb, thinking that I wanted to keep everything stock.

After the rebuild, I went with a new exhaust system from TTI. Switched over from that tiny stock single exhaust to a fat 2.5-inch H-pipe but kept the stock manifolds. The sound is freaking amazing. Now I'm thinking I probably should have bumped it up in the rebuild (Cam, porting, and boring), but oh well.

I am thinking of swapping out the 2 bbl BBS for the 4 bbl option. I already have an Edelbrock performer 4 bbl intake. I’m trying to decide what the best option for carb might be. I'm thinking an AVS2 650 (1906). Should I stick with points, or should I upgrade as well?

Just wondering what you all think I should do? My budget for this part of the build is around 1K. Go ahead, spend my money!

New video · Monday, Apr 7 ð¬
(Short Video)

 

[junkyardhero]

shoulda done the cam!!

anyway, i'd run the performer with a 1403 (500cfm) or 1406 (600cfm) you can generally find both used quite cheap. benefit is that they are easy to rebuild, parts are cheap and they have electronic choke.

on the sparks i'd go stock electronic ignition. or a pertronix conversion. the petronix install is easy, and besides a little bit of wiring the stock electronic is drop in easy.

 

[JDMopar]

I'd paint that Performer bright red like the rest of the motor, use a 1403 with an electric choke and then rework the air cleaner you have to fit the 4 bbl carb. That would be stealth city! Do yourself a favor and swap that bypass nipple out for the right kind. The one that's on the Performer now will eventually leak. BTDT! That is a VERY nice car.

 

[318willrun]

I'll throw in my 2 cents...
Leave the 318 alone. Looks great! I'm sure it runs even better. In the mean time... find a good 5.2 or 5.9 magnum, and for a side hobby start building a mild-decent street engine. You know, the cam, 4bbl, etc etc. Then, when you say the 318 2bbl has got to go, you'll have a drop and go engine (with a good set of Doug headers) waiting for install.

 

[JDMopar]

I'll throw in my 2 cents...
Leave the 318 alone. Looks great! I'm sure it runs even better. In the mean time... find a good 5.2 or 5.9 magnum, and for a side hobby start building a mild-decent street engine. You know, the cam, 4bbl, etc etc. Then, when you say the 318 2bbl has got to go, you'll have a drop and go engine (with a good set of Doug headers) waiting for install.

There you go talking sense agin.....lol.