aaronk785
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Probably buy a used performer for 150.00 or so on fb mp and it has the 318 ports. They are easy to find used.
M1 Sb intake. Best for small blocks?
- Thread starter swingingdart
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I’m running a Stealth now on the wife’s 360, TF headed engine. I’ll try a RPM AG next, later this year.
autoxcuda
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LD4B’s seem to be $200-$300
not sure if that extra $100 over comparable intakes is worth it
Search Results for Query: LD4B | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
not sure if that extra $100 over comparable intakes is worth it
Search Results for Query: LD4B | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
Always more for the mystical antique manifolds.
A stock iron, Performer or Action Plus will do well here.
And a bunch cheaper.
A stock iron, Performer or Action Plus will do well here.
And a bunch cheaper.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Anytime you inject the word “best” into a question about some particular engine part that pertains to the overall “combination”....... the correct response is almost always......
“It depends”.
There are no magic parts........ but for sure, some “combinations” are better than others.
And...... even then...... it depends on exactly what you’re doing with it.
“It depends”.
There are no magic parts........ but for sure, some “combinations” are better than others.
And...... even then...... it depends on exactly what you’re doing with it.
The stock 340 intake performs extremely well. The big downfall is it weighs a ton. They also have a tendency to crack between the throttle bores, divider area.
For a street car its hard to beat the air gap.
For a street car its hard to beat the air gap.
I have an M1 DP I would part with for a reasonable price, if you don't mind a couple layers of old paint on it. I ran it on my 67 318 in my truck for a while.
PM if interested.
swingingdart
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You all got a wealth of knowledge on this stuff, looks like I have a lot more reach to do. I do not know what gasket it was matched to, it was a felpro gasket set. I think 318-360. But I could be wrong. I guess I need to tear into it and see what is going on. Can 302 heads be gasket matched to 340 gaskets? Or is that too much meat to remove on those heads? (Just trying to figure out what gaskets they might have been).
This is the cam I am using, looks like duration is 258/265.
I am disappointed in my low to mid range, but I kind of just figured it was my 3.23 gears (or the fact it was a 318).
I appreciate the help guys!
This is the cam I am using, looks like duration is 258/265.
I am disappointed in my low to mid range, but I kind of just figured it was my 3.23 gears (or the fact it was a 318).
I appreciate the help guys!
autoxcuda
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like said before... combination dependent
OP’s combination is far different than a competition 100% dedicated Super Stock race car.
^^^
Yes I understand he is not building a race car.
Hence best is subjective.
Ld 340 intakes were very sought after.
Port o sonics not talked about as much.
I rarely claim anything to be the best.
So many variables.
Out of the box vs worked intended use ect.
I was making a point about subjectiveness .
So I'm not sure your point ?
I never said anything more then what the port o sonic did on a track vs the ld340 for comparison.
Have a good day sir.
Yes I understand he is not building a race car.
Hence best is subjective.
Ld 340 intakes were very sought after.
Port o sonics not talked about as much.
I rarely claim anything to be the best.
So many variables.
Out of the box vs worked intended use ect.
I was making a point about subjectiveness .
So I'm not sure your point ?
I never said anything more then what the port o sonic did on a track vs the ld340 for comparison.
Have a good day sir.
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I always have to keep in mind there are a lot of guys that are racers mixing with street strip guys mixing with street hot rodders mixing with those that are new to it all. And everything in between. Guy wants a cam recommendation for his grocery getter 318 and next thing he knows he’s got complex camshaft terminology thrown at him, advice on milling his heads, swapping pistons, changing torque converter, etc etc. and a heap of misunderstanding. Happens here regularly yup!
Your low end, or lack there off, is due to a few factors. The engine is small. But not the end of the world.
Low compression, small cam, restrictive intake and exhaust are the major players in the problem.
That cam is right in the drivers rpm range. Just use one of the listed intakes above, OE-4bbl, Performer, Action Plus, coupled with a 600 cfm carb and go from there. As suggested, replace the timing chain & sprockets with a new double roller. Do yourself dual exhaust.
Then upgrade the ignition parts later.
You’ll be in good shape.
swingingdart
Well-Known Member
Right now I have headers, dual exhaust with X pipe that dumps before the axle.
A 80s iron 4 barrel intake, had to put a plate to cover egr stuff on the side opposite of where the mechanical choke would attach on old intakes. I have a double roller true roller timing chain with tensioner. My carb is a Carter AFB. Was told it was either a 650 or 625 CFM.
When I rev it up in park it sounds MEAN and revs up very quick, but when I go to take off it just doesnt have that low end grunt. Like I said, maybe it's just the 3.23 gears. Maybe its cause it's a 318. But I know there are better intakes than this iron one. Figured I'd start there! What part of the ignition would cause slow acceleration? (Sorry, still a bit of a newbie in some stuff)
No issues using the 340/360 port size intake with 318 heads. Done it more than I care to remember. In fact, I have a air gap on 318 heads now... LOL
autoxcuda
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no worries. Good point about subjectiveness.
But I’m just trying not to confuse the OP. I know you didn’t recommend this single plane offy.
Just want to reiterate a single plane like that would not be a good fit for his particular situation.
I get your point now.
I guess my bad would be assuming everyone knows I'm just using the intake comparison in reference to what's best being subjective.
@swingingdart
If your distributor has a vacuum advance canister, good, if not..... run as much initial as you can and limit the advance @ 36*’s. All I. Around 3K. Use a MSD or equal and open up your plug gaps to .055. This is a good ball park starting point.
If your distributor has a vacuum advance canister, good, if not..... run as much initial as you can and limit the advance @ 36*’s. All I. Around 3K. Use a MSD or equal and open up your plug gaps to .055. This is a good ball park starting point.
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That Offy intake was highly recommended back in the day for use in racing with some mods inside the plenum.
(Danm’s)
(Danm’s)
This intake has been heavily molded.
You just can't tell much from the pics.
So would have been his ld340.
What I can tell you is he told me even though it was a single plain it was on a heavy car and still did well down low.
swingingdart
Well-Known Member
It does have a vaccum pod. Original from 72, whole thing came out of a 72 motorhome. Engine and trans. Alsmot no miles on it. I will do that timing change, I did put on an MSB blaster coil. I honestly dont remember where my plugs were gapped at, (probably a good thing to check as well) thanks!
Not to sidetrack too much here, but in the MP engine book many have read on doing those mods to that intake as well as the M1 and others of epoxying popsicle sticks on the floor of various runners but to this day I don’t think I’ve ever seen actual detailed photos of it actually done. Just the MP engine books outline drawings. I know the why for use of the wood, but it sure would be nice to see how some have done that. I’m sure it’s pretty crude with the wood and epoxy regardless but I have been thinking of making something similar (for the M1) out of thin aluminum and pinning and staking it in place which would be viable, clean and so there’s no way for ingestion. Still would like to see pictures of some of these popsicle stick intake mods, would be good reference for all
I also had w2 heads and intake from my friend.
The intake was a strip dominator it had the epoxy and popsicle stick deal done to it.
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