318 4 bbl and intake upgrade

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Mike69cuda said:
Back in the day when I was a poor college kid, I put a stock 340 manifold on a 318 with a Holley 650. Ran great, what increase in power with dual exhaust added too.
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That's the recipe for basic hot rodding a stock 318.
 
Mike69cuda said:
Back in the day when I was a poor college kid, I put a stock 340 manifold on a 318 with a Holley 650. Ran great, what increase in power with dual exhaust added too.
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It works fine. Some people just won't believe it. People have done it for decades, just like Chrysler.
 
Dan the man said:
He will not loose power, as he is going from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel carburetor, that's 25 horsepower, dual exhaust around 20 horsepower, advance the ignition timing around another 20 horsepower, where's the lose? And Chrysler didn't build a million 4 barrel 318's. You guys think that every part you install has to be huge, simply not true.
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Yawn…… Get educated before replying.
 
Couple years ago I put a stock '70 340 intake on my wife's '73 Challenger. Put a 625 Street Demon on top with a 1/2" phenolic spacer so the choke linkage would clear the factory choke stove casting. A buddy gave me the intake so I had it kicking around. Challenger already had '68-70 340 exhaust manifolds on it And TTI 2 1/2" exhaust. Ran the car on the dyno with the stock 2bbl setup and got the as 1973 advertised 150 HP. Might have been 150 and some change, but no powerhouse. Swapped the intake and carb, never touched the distributor so timing was the same. Picked up 30 HP at the rear wheels. Rest of the 318 is the tired, stock, as-assembled by Chrysler engine. Yea the ports mismatch. Doesn't matter for this application.
 
Dan the man said:
He will not loose power, as he is going from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel carburetor, that's 25 horsepower, dual exhaust around 20 horsepower, advance the ignition timing around another 20 horsepower, where's the lose? And Chrysler didn't build a million 4 barrel 318's. You guys think that every part you install has to be huge, simply not true.
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compared to a 600/650/750 he will versus using a 500. that was clearly what was meant.
 
There is only 1 thing wrong with a 340/360 factory iron intake.
The darn thing weighs about 50 lbs !
 
Dan the man said:
He will not loose power, as he is going from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel carburetor, that's 25 horsepower, dual exhaust around 20 horsepower, advance the ignition timing around another 20 horsepower, where's the lose? And Chrysler didn't build a million 4 barrel 318's. You guys think that every part you install has to be huge, simply not true.
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That's a little generous. More like 10 5 and 2 :poke::lol:
 
putting a four barrel on a other wise stock small valve head 318 won't give enough difference that you'll be able to tell in the seat of a 3400 lb car. but what it will make a difference on is how many times you fill up at the pump
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'll never understand why people insist on spreading total misinformation. Chrysler didn't give a **** and shinola about the "port mismatch" and it didn't make a hill of beans difference. But people are gonna choke, puke and regurgitate the same old WRONG bullshit over and over. It's just that. WRONG.
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They've been listening to Uncle Tony types on the internet. the guys with a perfectly good set of heads and an intake but want to take a Harbor freight grinder to them...:)
 
Lowcar said:
putting a four barrel on a other wise stock small valve head 318 won't give enough difference that you'll be able to tell in the seat of a 3400 lb car. but what it will make a difference on is how many times you fill up at the pump
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Here is the fun part about our hobby, when you experiment and come up with working combinations, it's all smiles per mile.

Example:

Stock '69 318 only thing added was the Edelbrock 1406 4 bbl carb, 100% stock all the way down to the factory single exhaust and manifolds.

318 / 727 / 2.94 rear gears
20 mpg
Some would say that's a heavy car, it's all how you have it set up.

Enjoy Yes . . .

Screenshot_20220207-105656_Gallery.jpg
 
George Jets said:
Here is the fun part about our hobby, when you experiment and come up with working combinations, it's all smiles per mile.

Example:

Stock '69 318 only thing added was the Edelbrock 1406 4 bbl carb, 100% stock all the way down to the factory single exhaust and manifolds.

318 / 727 / 2.94 rear gears
20 mpg
Some would say that's a heavy car, it's all how you have it set up.

Enjoy Yes . . .

View attachment 1715865852
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That's a beauty George. You can cruise to any show at 20 mpg and have lot's of fun without breaking the bank at the gas pump. A 4 barrel might give it a little more pep when you kick it in the pants but probably the same mileage and performance driving it easy. The primaries on a 600 Edelbrock are probably a touch bigger than the stock 2 barrel.
 
that is a nice 69.my first car was a 68 rr bought for 1800 dollars in 1970 over the year's i've had three 69 rr's and a bunch of other bb mopars. and there would be where the kick in the pant's comes in, some people are perfectly happy riding a moped and other's prefer a sreamin eagle big twin. it's all good
 
I had read or heard somewhere that you can slap a 4 bbl on a stock 318 2 bbl cam and heads/bottom end and it responds well. I had always yanked my stock 318 cam and ran a Summit cam, but you dont have to from what i understand.
 
toolmanmike said:
That's a little generous. More like 10 5 and 2 :poke::lol:
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Going from a 2 barrel carburetor to a 4 barrel that's properly tuned can get you up to 25 horsepower, proper ignition timing can make a extra 20 horsepower, if you go from like 0* to 16*-18* btdc you will gain more than 5 horsepower, you say only 2 on the exhaust, you must be installing your exhaust system with a hammer, if you properly install a a good free flowing exhaust system that's mandrel bent it should be good for a easy 10 horsepower. I wish that I had the dyno sheets that showed power gains with correct timing. If want you say is true then going to a 4 barrel would be a waste of time and money.
 
Dan the man said:
Going from a 2 barrel carburetor to a 4 barrel that's properly tuned can get you up to 25 horsepower, proper ignition timing can make a extra 20 horsepower, if you go from like 0* to 16*-18* btdc you will gain more than 5 horsepower, you say only 2 on the exhaust, you must be installing your exhaust system with a hammer, if you properly install a a good free flowing exhaust system that's mandrel bent it should be good for a easy 10 horsepower. I wish that I had the dyno sheets that showed power gains with correct timing. If want you say is true then going to a 4 barrel would be a waste of time and money.
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A 4 barrel, proper advance and dual exhaust won't get you 65 horse.
 
Lowcar said:
putting a four barrel on a other wise stock small valve head 318 won't give enough difference that you'll be able to tell in the seat of a 3400 lb car. but what it will make a difference on is how many times you fill up at the pump
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Inky if your foot is opening up the secondary side. Otherwise you should get better mileage over the two barrel.
Dartswinger70 said:
They've been listening to Uncle Tony types on the internet. the guys with a perfectly good set of heads and an intake but want to take a Harbor freight grinder to them...:)
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Depends on the level of performance sought.
toolmanmike said:
A 4 barrel, proper advance and dual exhaust won't get you 65 horse.
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But don’t you know if you say it enough times it becomes true?!?!
 
Back in my young and dumb days I stuck a performer rpm (non air gap) a Holley 3310, with a stock 360 cam (yanked from a truck at a junkyard!) in/on an otherwise stock 318 bottom end with 110,000 miles on it. Turns out I stumbled on a pretty decent running combo. It ran great right up till it floated the valves at 4800 rpm.
:lol:
man those springs were slam wore out.
 
toolmanmike said:
A 4 barrel, proper advance and dual exhaust won't get you 65 horse.
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If 17 horsepower is all that you can get from doing those 3 things, then you are doing something wrong. A 4 barrel swap alone is worth around 15 horsepower. Read on how the guys that run totally stock engines and see what kind of power they gain, it's more than 17 for sure.
 
Dan the man said:
If 17 horsepower is all that you can get from doing those 3 things, then you are doing something wrong. A 4 barrel swap alone is worth around 15 horsepower. Read on how the guys that run totally stock engines and see what kind of power they gain, it's more than 17 for sure.
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You said before that a 4 barrel is worth 25. Now which is it? I'm out of here!
 
toolmanmike said:
You said before that a 4 barrel is worth 25. Now which is it? I'm out of here!
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Let me make myself more clear on this, if you convert to a 4 barrel carburetor and just bolt it on then it's at least a 15 horsepower gain, if you properly tuned it, it's good for a 25 horsepower gain. Either way, the modifications that I mentioned will make more than the 17 horsepower that you mentioned. Tuning is where it's at
 
toolmanmike said:
You said before that a 4 barrel is worth 25. Now which is it? I'm out of here!
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I think that we're going mostly by personal experience. I know that each application is different and no 2 engines are a like. But, at one time I did have a dyno sheet showing the power gain from advancing the ignition timing and it was a lot more than 7 horsepower. There's so many other benefactors that can / will affect final power numbers. Also I failed to mention that I was talking about flywheel horsepower. I wasn't trying to sound like a know it all, just going by what I've seen from helping others with their cars. I still got a lot to learn
 
Lowcar said:
that is a nice 69.my first car was a 68 rr bought for 1800 dollars in 1970 over the year's i've had three 69 rr's and a bunch of other bb mopars. and there would be where the kick in the pant's comes in, some people are perfectly happy riding a moped and other's prefer a sreamin eagle big twin. it's all good
Click to expand...

Top off the moped gas tank before you head out for the day, rumor has it they don't hold much gas.
 
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