GM control module

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Dan the man

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I know that this has been discussed before, but would somebody post on how to wire a gm control module to a mopar distributor. I looked for it but couldn't find it. Thanks everyone
 
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There's a projection on the bottom, you must either drill a clearance hole or cut off the projection. Heat transfer compound "is recommended" but I don't use it. Mount it on some sort of small heat sink. Even a flat scrap of aluminum. Pay attention to the polarity of the pickup coil--it will screw up "rotor phasing" if you reverse the pickup, and cause rough running and crossfire, etc.

Bypass the ballast resistor so the coil and HEI get full battery voltage
 
67Dart273 said:
View attachment 1715951738

There's a projection on the bottom, you must either drill a clearance hole or cut off the projection. Heat transfer compound "is recommended" but I don't use it. Mount it on some sort of small heat sink. Even a flat scrap of aluminum. Pay attention to the polarity of the pickup coil--it will screw up "rotor phasing" if you reverse the pickup, and cause rough running and crossfire, etc.

Bypass the ballast resistor so the coil and HEI get full battery voltage
Click to expand...
Thanks. With this set up, I can run a wider plug gap?
 
Sure but in my opinion I would not "by much." Maybe .040-.045. Wider gap plugs were primarily iintroduced to fire leaner "smog" mixtures
 
[1] You should only widen the plug gaps if using an E core coil, use 060. No more than 040 for a canister coil.
[2] If you are using the factory coil, or any coil that normally uses a ballast resistor, you MUST use the bal res. Not shown in post #2.
 
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I used a "factory" coil on 3 different projects.......my 67 when it was running, the Cletrac/ Toyota 20R swap project, and one other of a friend. All had older "can" ballasted coils, The HEI has a sort of built in current control and using them does not seem to hurt a thing. Even with the old style coils HEI makes a LOT more spark

Also, an HEI module, as apposed to factory Ford, the old Jeep / Prestolite or Motorola/ factory Mopar, or Pertronix, DOES NOT draw coil current if you end up with key on/ engine stopped. No danger of burning up anything
 
I recently bought one of these.
I really like it!
Clean install
No box, no ballast , starts instantly.
I had them limit mechanical advance to 10 degrees.
All in by 2000
They will set it up however you want or tell them all your info and they will set it up based on that for you.
Screenshot_20220705-210151_Photos.jpg

I opened spark plug gap to .045
They say you can go to .055
Great people!
DUI, performance distributors.
I think they will sell the module and mount separately.
 
Mopar69gts said:
I recently bought one of these.
I really like it!
Clean install
No box, no ballast , starts instantly.
I had them limit mechanical advance to 10 degrees.
All in by 2000
They will set it up however you want or tell them all your info and they will set it up based on that for you.View attachment 1715952120
I opened spark plug gap to .045
They say you can go to .055
Great people!
DUI, performance distributors.
I think they will sell the module and mount separately.
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting this. Seems like that's the best way to go weather the distance is rebuilt or new
 
What I said in post #7 was correct, & is correct in this post.
If the coil being used was designed to be used with a bal res, the bal res is STILL NEEDED when used with a GM HEI module.
People may have omitted the res, but would run the risk of overheating the coil.
The coil & res form a voltage divider network. The coil gets less than 12v because some of the voltage is dropped across the res.
 
I'm not going to argue with you, Richard. I know what works.
 
If your using a coil that requires a resistor
Then you should probably use a ballast.
But if you want the most from your ignition system,
I recommend a Good high voltage coil that does not require a resistor.
Hell I'm now looking at this...lol
Screenshot_20220706-072242_Chrome.jpg

It gives 18 volts to the coil only.
With it they say you can now gap plugs to .065-.075!!
 
If I use a GM HEI ignition module, can I remove my ballast resistor?
Yes you can as long as you either
1. Use an HEI E-core coil with low resistance or
2. Use a canister coil with 1.0 to 1.5 ohms resistance. This resistance is required for the coil, not the ignition module.
You must retain the ballast resistor if you wish to
3. Use the stock Chrysler coil with .5 ohms resistance. The ballast resistor here will prevent the stock coil from overheating.
The HEI ignition module enables you to use less primary resistance, but will function fine if you wish to use more resistance.
 
Mopar69gts said:
I recently bought one of these.
I really like it!
Clean install
No box, no ballast , starts instantly.
I had them limit mechanical advance to 10 degrees.
All in by 2000
They will set it up however you want or tell them all your info and they will set it up based on that for you.View attachment 1715952120
I opened spark plug gap to .045
They say you can go to .055
Great people!
DUI, performance distributors.
I think they will sell the module and mount separately.
Click to expand...
Do you have the part number for this distributor and coil? All I can find are the ones that are the gm style distributor.
 
If you go to thier website
Click on menu, products, distributors
Then dodge you will see it there.
They just call it tri power.
Performance distributors
Screenshot_20220716-223656_Chrome.jpg
 
Most good ignition manufactures will tell you what primary coil resistance you need as well as what plug gaps they recommend and under what conditions.
Do your research and understand what your doing and why..
If you're going to get a GM style module, make sure you get a quality one..
Chinese/ procomp etc made ones, are not very reliable.
 
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C11EDC35-DACB-4753-9108-365AD02A72C7.jpeg
I use HEI coil. 99.9% don’t know that and the .1% that do don’t even see it.

I do have the ballast in place with the resistor removed using a jumper wire in its place
 
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