Exhaust Manifolds

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I would slam an overdrive in the tunnel,

Say you put a 200R4 in there.
ahhh HAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAHAHHAHAHAHAHA
*takes a deep breath*
HAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHahahhahahahahaa
*passes out from lack of oxygen*

AJ, while all of your information is absolutely spot on. and, yeah, that would make an excellent cruiser... take a moment and consider the audience.

dan can't even decide on a car, complains about the cost of everything and gets target fixation on inane things like cam theory, chrome boxes, and intake port mismatch between 318 heads and wheezy 360 2bbl units.

while good info for the rest of us, it's totally of no use to dan.
 
I said; that's what I would do and why.
We all started from zero.
Nobody ever started knowing it all.
Classic cars are not rocket Science.
Everything goes together, one piece atta time; just like LEGO.
 
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@Dan the man
BTW,
you can put a 2-speed quick-change in the back in an afternoon . Drive it around all week with 4.11s/4.30s, then, if you need to make a hiway run, just swap the gears for overdrive, in just a few minutes. Yeah it's expensive, but it solves all the problems in just about one afternoon.
It was on my list for the longest time, but ultimately I chose the GVod for more flexibility.
Another good choice is converting to a clutch and an A833 overdrive. The 318 is a good candidate for this; the roadgears would be;
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85 compare; to the autos; 65=2375, with 3.91s
...........7.20-4.26-2.94 for the TF and cruises at 65=2500 @3% slip.
11.95-6.75-4.30-2.88 for the Chevy, cruises at 65= 2370 in Loc-up.
Notice anything interesting?
Yeah, First, Second, and overdrive are just right. and in your combo, Third will be fine. This swap, in an A-body is about as simple as it gets. about the hardest part is installing the floor hump. I know a guy ............. PM me.
 
@Dan the man
BTW,
you can put a 2-speed quick-change in the back in an afternoon . Drive it around all week with 4.11s/4.30s, then, if you need to make a hiway run, just swap the gears for overdrive, in just a few minutes. Yeah it's expensive, but it solves all the problems in just about one afternoon.
It was on my list for the longest time, but ultimately I chose the GVod for more flexibility.
Another good choice is converting to a clutch and an A833 overdrive. The 318 is a good candidate for this; the roadgears would be;
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85 compare; to the autos; 65=2375, with 3.91s
...........7.20-4.26-2.94 for the TF and cruises at 65=2500 @3% slip.
11.95-6.75-4.30-2.88 for the Chevy, cruises at 65= 2370 in Loc-up.
Notice anything interesting?
Yeah, First, Second, and overdrive are just right. and in your combo, Third will be fine. This swap, in an A-body is about as simple as it gets. about the hardest part is installing the floor hump. I know a guy ,............
Frankland. for the win.
 
@Dan the man
BTW,
you can put a 2-speed quick-change in the back in an afternoon . Drive it around all week with 4.11s/4.30s, then, if you need to make a hiway run, just swap the gears for overdrive, in just a few minutes. Yeah it's expensive, but it solves all the problems in just about one afternoon.
It was on my list for the longest time, but ultimately I chose the GVod for more flexibility.
Another good choice is converting to a clutch and an A833 overdrive. The 318 is a good candidate for this; the roadgears would be;
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85 compare; to the autos; 65=2375, with 3.91s
...........7.20-4.26-2.94 for the TF and cruises at 65=2500 @3% slip.
11.95-6.75-4.30-2.88 for the Chevy, cruises at 65= 2370 in Loc-up.
Notice anything interesting?
Yeah, First, Second, and overdrive are just right. and in your combo, Third will be fine. This swap, in an A-body is about as simple as it gets. about the hardest part is installing the floor hump. I know a guy ............. PM me.
Your in box is full
 
IIRC, I don't think the chrome boxes are happy running at lower RPM for extended periods of time.
I've been running the same chrome box since the late 70's on a street car, absolutely no problems. Except for a few years when I tried a MSD 5c box, that slowly went away. Then back to the tried and true chrome box.
 
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I think they have chrome box confused with the race only Gold Box ( gold boxes are not just gold, but have a diff look as have fins to help cool)
I ran chrome boxes years and years no problem same as you. The gold supposedly heats up. I never had that problembut my use was short lived as went back to chrom.
I have some new- old stock orange, chrome and gold I tried one of the gold and never saw a difference in my app it is rated above what I needed. So switched back to chrome. Did not want to chance damaging it.
 
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I know no one here personally. I also want opinions on something, I know little about, before jumping in with both feet. I also appreciate more than one opinion, so I can then choose the way I want to proceed. I also have an old saying I live by, "show me don't tell me" and another one, "if it is not broken, don't fix it". As some have stated here, get your project in hand and then our comments could be meaningful. Sometimes people try to fix a problem, that is not even there.
 
People here like a good bench race, but there's only so many times you can go over the same subject with someone especially when it all is probably for nought.
 
People here like a good bench race, but there's only so many times you can go over the same subject with someone especially when it all is probably for nought.
They sure do. Same subject can have different variations if you can understand that.
 
They sure do. Same subject can have different variations if you can understand that.
Yes I think I'm able to understand that lol, Doesn't mean it ain't gonna tiresome for many no matter what part of a mild 318 build you want to discuss :)

The part that gets me is you don't even know if you'll end up with 318 car or if you do, it probably already be mildly done. Making this a lot of wasted energy. If you want to learn more about performance in general more power to ya, if you want it only narrow down to a mild 318 that you may or may not build don't be surprised if people get tired of it, from the sounds of it, it already been a few years already.

I'm not saying don't post that's what this site for but don't get butthurt when people get tired of it.
There's subjects I post some get tired of but others like it, and it's what I like to talk about everyone got their own thing, if your is mild 318 bench racing so be it. Just maybe wait for a guy with a 318 that's starts a thread, I got a 318 what should I do? One starts every other week, and get your 318 fix like the rest of us.
 
Yes I think I'm able to understand that lol, Doesn't mean it ain't gonna tiresome for many no matter what part of a mild 318 build you want to discuss :)

The part that gets me is you don't even know if you'll end up with 318 car or if you do, it probably already be mildly done. Making this a lot of wasted energy. If you want to learn more about performance in general more power to ya, if you want it only narrow down to a mild 318 that you may or may not build don't be surprised if people get tired of it, from the sounds of it, it already been a few years already.

I'm not saying don't post that's what this site for but don't get butthurt when people get tired of it.
There's subjects I post some get tired of but others like it, and it's what I like to talk about everyone got their own thing, if your is mild 318 bench racing so be it. Just maybe wait for a guy with a 318 that's starts a thread, I got a 318 what should I do? One starts every other week, and get your 318 fix like the rest of us.
The reason 318's are discussed so much is simply because they were the most popular engine option until 1974 when the 360's became available in the A bodies. I know that there was the 340 but it was a performance package. For the average person the good old 318 is a very good starting point. If your already has a 318 sometimes it's not practical to swap out for a 360 as you have the cost of buying it, also the LA 318's and 360's are balanced differently
 
The reason 318's are discussed so much is simply because they were the most popular engine option until 1974 when the 360's became available in the A bodies. I know that there was the 340 but it was a performance package. For the average person the good old 318 is a very good starting point. If your already has a 318 sometimes it's not practical to swap out for a 360 as you have the cost of buying it, also the LA 318's and 360's are balanced differently
Probably part of it, but also 340/360 builds are fairly straightforward and established what to do, 273/318 there's little consensus about best way forward especially since a large group of people see no way forward other than barely touch it or a 340/360+ swap.
 
Probably part of it, but also 340/360 builds are fairly straightforward and established what to do, 273/318 there's little consensus about best way forward especially since a large group of people see no way forward other than barely touch it or a 340/360+ swap.
Myself, I probably wouldn't do a 340 /360 swap if I already had a 318. To do the swap there's the expense of buying the other engine, 360's are balanced differently so there's the extra cost of a converter LA 360's. The motor mounts are different than the 318's. I'm not complaining about the cost, just stayed what's involved.
 
I agree with this one
I can't be the only one sick n tired of the rest of you that start a post about any other engines with "Get a 360". It's you that needs to get over it.
 
Myself, I probably wouldn't do a 340 /360 swap if I already had a 318. To do the swap there's the expense of buying the other engine, 360's are balanced differently so there's the extra cost of a converter LA 360's. The motor mounts are different than the 318's. I'm not complaining about the cost, just stayed what's involved.
I could be wrong, but my understanding with the converter is just cut off the balance weight and you are good to go with a 360 to a 318. If the other way around, I have seen many just laying around, for cheap. The mounts are the same, depending on the year. The bracket from the insulator to the block are different. Just one side. I believe the 340 has the same bracket as the 360. So the other way around will work also.
 
Myself, I probably wouldn't do a 340 /360 swap if I already had a 318. To do the swap there's the expense of buying the other engine, 360's are balanced differently so there's the extra cost of a converter LA 360's. The motor mounts are different than the 318's. I'm not complaining about the cost, just stayed what's involved.
My point there's a huge group that thinks that way, I'm for 318 but you got to accept there limitations.
There's kind of two to main ways going about a build 1st seems to pick an peak hp and build for it and hopefully gear stall etc... For it, this is where most screw up, since most won't run much rear gear, rear gear is more important to smaller engines than larger ones.

Next is to build for a powerband and a street engine has at least two the performance stall to shift points and the average driving around part throttle one. When rpm is fixed then Torque is the only way to build more power, either through efficiency which there only so much room for improvements especially down low where everyone wants it, plus power is less sensitive to torque gains down low that they got to be fairly huge to make a difference, and since torque is hugely based on displacement that if you don't want to go larger than you got to accept what your gonna get, efficiency is generally an expensive and a lot of little things add up type of thing. A slightly modded EFI 5.2l magnum OD is probably the best you could expect down low from a 318.
 
Myself, I probably wouldn't do a 340 /360 swap if I already had a 318. To do the swap there's the expense of buying the other engine, 360's are balanced differently so there's the extra cost of a converter LA 360's. The motor mounts are different than the 318's. I'm not complaining about the cost, just stayed what's involved.
Dan I gotta tell you, if your 318 needs pistons, and your car is pushing 3600 pounds with you in it , choosing to stay with the 318, over choosing a 360, is, IMO, false economy.
By the time you get the 318 up to pressure, and the chassis set up for the new power curve, it very well couldda cost you LESS if you had just started with a locally sourced 360. And there's just no comparison in the torque.

For your application;
the 360 cam, if it's half-decent, is already close to perfect
you could easily get away with using the 318 heads, and sell the 360 ones.
You can even bolt on the entire 318 top-end. I mean everything from the decks up.
All your 318 stuff will bolt on to the 360.
The engine mounts are a non-issue.
The convertor is a non issue. One phone call and whatever you need is on the way.

The 318, to make your requested 300hp, is gonna need the following parts. How much are these additional parts gonna cost?
As to the engine;
>High compression pistons
> a cam kit, to move the power production some 600 or more rpm higher.
> headers,
> a 4bbl intake, carb, and filter box
Those are the basics.
as to the chassis:
Additionally, to make use of this potential, at a roadspeed where it counts, the chassis is gonna need;
the following upgrades
>a higher stall TC
>a bigger rear gear, and the install of it
> dual exhaust.
So lets add up the additional stuff for the 318
Extra cost pistons and and possibly lots of decking, along with decking comes milling the intake interface, the cam-kit, the induction system, the convertor and the installed gears, plus headers. This is all extra cost over the basic.
I'm gonna guess this is gonna add up to over $3500, over the basic rebuild.

Now, what will the 360 need?
Well I'm going to suggest that horsepower for your application is relatively meaningless cuz the worn out 360, with a 4bbl and dual exhaust, changes that yur already gonna need to do with the 318, even just plopped into your car as is, will likely already do all that your 318 will do after having spent a ton of money on the combo. But Ok let's look at it

As to the 360 engine;
>High compression pistons, nah KB 107s will do it.
> a cam kit, nah the 360 2bbl cam is already 400 rpm higher than the stock 318
> headers/ nah, Ok lets get some 340 logs.
> a 4bbl intake, carb, and filter box, nah just run the big 2bbl
Those are the basics.
as to the chassis:
Additionally, to make use of this potential, at a roadspeed where it counts, the chassis is gonna need
the following upgrades
>a higher stall TC, nah
>a bigger rear gear, and the install, nah
> at least dual exhaust. Yeah that will be needed.
Ok so, the only additional cost is the pistons if your core needs a rebuild.
That plus, the 340 logs/or headers, and dual exhaust are needed in both cases.
So then the 360 costs are;
The core, the flexplate, and the KB107piston-kits if the engine is worn out, and the 340 logs. All other rebuilding costs will be the same except a lot less machining. So let's call it $1500 over the basic. not even considering the machining savings.
A difference of $2000 LESS money, to make the 360 into a decent runner....... including the cost of the core.

I'm gonna say it one more time;
if you are on a tight budget;
Leave the 318 alone. Just slap a 2800 TC into it and about 20/25% more rear gear, up to 3.55s if hiway travel is an occasional thing; and call it done. Yur 318 combo is gonna need that stuff anyway, so you might as well start there.

If fuel mileage is a concern, then top it out at 3.23s, and chose a lightweight, short wheelbase car, like a Scamp, or Valiant. Just keep in mind that the rear tubs on those cars will only accept up to 255s.
If yur thinking bigger some day, then you will need a 2-door sportback; like a Duster, a Demon, a Sport or a 789 Barracuda. All of these will swallow 295s with ease. Or, you know, an early Dart, a Valiant wagon, an F-body, a Toad, or a lowered early Dakota.....

Keep on dreaming my friend, I can do this all day every day. I actually like doing this all day, lol.
 
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I know what you're saying and actually dollar for dollar the 360 is the way for me to go. I do know where there are a couple of 360's. The 360 would make for cheap reliable power and torque.
 
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