Beefy SB

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I was about to ask the same question, any way to weigh it as it sits?

How heavy is that block, like 350lbs?? All that extra material around the lifter bores... the china wall is really thick too. Yeah, added strength yada yada but there's a point where it's overkill.
Not heavy at all

IMG_2346.jpeg
 
The only thing I know about that resto block is the thin walls in the valley are not thick enough to grind away for a roller cam lifter set up.
the valley area is very thin. i worked on a friends R3 that was ground to much (4 holes to fix) and we had to epoxy the valley. not to big of a deal but still ads to the workload. it's been together for 3 years now with no issues.
 
Put down about 1500 miles pulled the motor to change the cam was a bit wild had to pedal it to keep it idling also changed the inlet manifold to a full unit for normal cooling rather than idividual pipes for each cooling port.
 
the valley area is very thin. i worked on a friends R3 that was ground to much (4 holes to fix) and we had to epoxy the valley. not to big of a deal but still ads to the workload. it's been together for 3 years now with no issues.
These days, there is good roller lifters available with inboard link bars and no giant rivet heads. I am thinking those should greatly reduce the grinding needed to prevent this, but I have no experience with them yet.
 
Is that a bathroom scale???

Yeah, it’s a bit of a porker. I’m not even sure that bare big blocks weigh over 200lbs. Stock 340 blocks with caps generally weigh around 165-170lbs.

Are you going to use a motor plate? That would certainly aid in getting the extra weight off the front.

I’m sure you’re aware but there are shops out there that have block lightening programs. Not cheap but the possibility exists if you chose to go that route. Probably not remotely necessary for a street car.

Make enough power and it won’t matter how heavy the block is.
 

These days, there is good roller lifters available with inboard link bars and no giant rivet heads. I am thinking those should greatly reduce the grinding needed to prevent this, but I have no experience with them yet.
I run Crane ultra pro solid roller lifters on a small base circle no grinding was needed 12 thou lash very quite.
Need to be for the 48 degree as the link bar spacing is different.
 
Is that a bathroom scale???

Yeah, it’s a bit of a porker. I’m not even sure that bare big blocks weigh over 200lbs. Stock 340 blocks with caps generally weigh around 165-170lbs.

Are you going to use a motor plate? That would certainly aid in getting the extra weight off the front.

I’m sure you’re aware but there are shops out there that have block lightening programs. Not cheap but the possibility exists if you chose to go that route. Probably not remotely necessary for a street car.

Make enough power and it won’t matter how heavy the block is.
yes it is. motor plate will be used. just for a street car with possible boost if i can be man enough to go that direction.
 
Is that a bathroom scale???

Yeah, it’s a bit of a porker. I’m not even sure that bare big blocks weigh over 200lbs. Stock 340 blocks with caps generally weigh around 165-170lbs.

Are you going to use a motor plate? That would certainly aid in getting the extra weight off the front.

I’m sure you’re aware but there are shops out there that have block lightening programs. Not cheap but the possibility exists if you chose to go that route. Probably not remotely necessary for a street car.

Make enough power and it won’t matter how heavy the block is.
Block lightening seems like a lot of work and cost trying to save 25-30 pounds? I'd gladly eat salads for a year to lose 25 pounds off my backside if I had the opportunity to build one of those blocks. Building to the extra HP handling potential would make up for the additional weight in short order.
 
Block lightening seems like a lot of work and cost trying to save 25-30 pounds? I'd gladly eat salads for a year to lose 25 pounds off my backside if I had the opportunity to build one of those blocks. Building to the extra HP handling potential would make up for the additional weight in short order.
What if your 5’9” @ 170lbs.?
LOL

For WIW, I was that height and 134lbs at high school graduation.
 
I knew mine was heavy, and at 4.07 bore and the little horsepower I make, it is ridiculously overkill. I have been trying to find a really good factory block to replace it with but I think all the good ones are hoarded away. Lol. Even 50lb loss would be huge.
 
Block lightening seems like a lot of work and cost trying to save 25-30 pounds? I'd gladly eat salads for a year to lose 25 pounds off my backside if I had the opportunity to build one of those blocks. Building to the extra HP handling potential would make up for the additional weight in short order.
If you are in a competitive class of racing every ounce counts and 35lbs is a lot. Those programs exist because some racers demand it. It's not for everyone.

Like I said, make enough power and it won't matter how heavy the block is. Or find other areas to shed the weight.
 
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