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Now would be a good time to shoot top/bottom rad fitting temps, then start adding timing and watch engine hose temps come down . jmo

Most auto parts stores will have a multi-compartment box behind the counter with both US and metric plugs. If you drilled a hole in the plug to remove it, braze/weld the hole, or put the screw back in. Or just leave the whole thing alone, you have oil to the top, you always did, (put the 2 bolts...

Just a side note, I had a coupla engines break rocker shafts. The oil pressure gauge banged off "0" psi at 1/2 engine rpms. So pump resistance should reduce a bunch as the passage opens.

Let us know when you're able to do a few simple tests at the vehicle. Cheers

My concern was a novice trying to align, put the rockers pushrods back in correctly, and the "why are some taller than others" valve spring questions . I was good till you got to taking rockers off. Carry on .

Yeah, take out the 2 bolts, start the drill/(turn the key) rotate crank at least 2 rotations, - 2 geysers to the ceiling, reinstall bolts, button it up. No messing with rockers etc, jmo

That hole thru the rocker shaft can be probed all the way to the cam, but I don't recommend it, if you chop the end off with the cam, drama. There's a bend and a restriction at the hd gskt,

They aren't officially numbered to my knowledge, only as I stated. Drape a cloth over the holes cuz when you get it right, it may deliver a blast .

These are 3 old cams I had in my shop, 2 have oiling holes in the same position in relation to keyway, the other is different, so using timing marks isn't reliable to find rocker oiling location. I don't have a timing set handy to set the cam timing up to crank.

Excuse me, but you really only need to pull the second rocker shaft bolt back on the drivers side, and the 4 th rocker bolt back on the passenger side to expose the oil gallery. Oil will shoot outta there when you get the right positions.

Can't tell, - the timing's really late .

You were given a tremendous amount of good info in the opening posts, particularly AJ, but you chose to ignore, and in fact argue. There are a number of very knowledgeable and friendly folk here but every now and then there is a thread that accumulates 130+ posts that remedy nothing cuz the...

The alt pulley is now missing the shoulder nec for the proper puller to remove the pulley, cuz it's now pressed up against the case. You pressed the front half of the pulley on backwards .

:popcorn: Wait till it overheats

Likely has to do with whether the crank was on the first rotation, or the second rotation . Crank has to turn twice to get the cam to turn once . It was covered in the sticky . You had this Steve ! lol

There was gonna be a "sticky" about it, but . . .

I've worked on many breeds, the Toyotas are slip fit cold, spin to chip 7500rpm, no drama, can't remember the Hondas. Something you might be overlooking is expansion rates of different metals, clearance change with temp. Valve settings as example, steel fluid transfer tubes into cast iron, no...

Yes

For final finish, I make little "booties" with pieces of "scotchbrite" pads and a staple, slips over the stones, and smoothes the surface to aid seating, Saves buying a different set of extra fine stones, jmo Standard procedure in my shops, dozens of times, by misc mechanics . Cheers

I haven't been following, cuz my mind was set about 4 posts in. I hope somewhere it was mentioned the owner should be told, and the decision should be his . jmo.

Thnx for the pix .

I'd appreciate seeing that, thank-you .

I believe the marine and industrial heads have extra cooling to the spark plugs and ex valve area. I know this to be true on the big blocks, there are extra holes on the lower edge of the gskts and heads . If there were no holes in the block and/or head, the holes in the gasket wouldn't matter ? ?

Hence the ratchet strap . But first I encourage you put everything on. Everytime you install something, you seem to need to adjust. Put it all in, and adjust once ,maybe twice. I usually install headers very last, I often find something simple like shifting the trans mount over/up a tad, gains...

If you're using biscuit mounts, the 69 - 318 van mounts are a little thicker than the car, and you could use those insteada washers . . . or not. Good job .

Seems to me I found a 90* fitting to screw into the pump fitting, and another (45*??) for the top of the box, and a straight fabbed hose fit. Too many years ago.

I don't know if the Doug's have gotten better, - they were always pretty good, but I haven't had to ding a tube in quite a few sets, and ratchet straps around the trans/T-bar. and fence posts up the collector can be helpful for that final clearance .

I'd get it in the vehicle, trans mounted, then loosen the fasteners everywhere, and shift the motor/trans as mentioned in many previous posts, - before I put a single ding in the header. Good luck.

I'm very sorry. I didn't intend to target that response at you, I meant a general response and edited it.

When you drop a slice of toast and jam, which side lands up most often .