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That's a fun show to watch. Those guys truly seem to be having a blast. Good for them!

I thought it might be. You can see it crack right at the 5:00 mark. That's a bummer. At least you have extras!

Did that w/p housing crack at the 5:00 mark in the 2nd video? Let us know if you're able to find a kit.

I always forget how much longer the slant is.

That's great to know! Thanks man.

Were you able to find a pulley puller at Oreilly?

Is there room for a short fan spacer?

Leaning tower of hell yeah! Lookin' good!

Is it possible to take the cam gear off to check the backlash between the idler and the crank gear, then take the crank gear off and check the backlash between the idler and the cam gear? That second video looks good.

Can you pop the cam gear off and wiggle the idler by hand to see how much backlash there actually is? I agree though - looks like there isn't much tooth engagement on the crank gear. It may just be the camera angle though?

Pretty slick setup for sure. Reminds me of the side of my Atlas lathe.

Any photos of the bushing the idler runs on? Or is it a shouldered bolt?

The OP asked if it's recoverable. The answer is "probably," but the only way to tell for sure is to rip it apart and assess how much machine work it'd take to bring it back to usable condition. I get (and understand) the value in saving an engine that would otherwise be scrapped, but you have to...

I'm too paranoid to use a strong acid to clean a carburetor. There are too many calibrated tiny orifices to worry about. There are also a bunch of good alternative products that do the job just fine. Maybe that's just me though.

What kind of parts does it have?? Disc brakes? Rearend? The answers to those questions would dictate how much I would be willing to pay, since they'd be tops on my list to upgrade if I bought that car.

Everyone's idea of "fully restored" is different. That and I'm alway weary of a pretty red paint job. Especially when corners are cut, such as painting over a heater blower motor, etc. That just screams halfassed. Take a magnet with you.

Good for you man! Thanks for doing that!

Is the shortblock assembled? I just did this in an assembled 400 shortblock using a 50/50 acetone-transmission fluid mix and it worked great with just a rag to wipe it off.

I've always run E-core coils with HEI ignition conversions. The Blaster SS has worked great for me. Since you're looking for a stock canister style though, I believe they make epoxy filled canister shaped coils. Maybe: Holley Sniper 556-153 Holley Sniper EFI Canister Style Ignition Coils |...

Looks like someone's already tried unsuccessfully to fix it with JB-weld.

So, you're going to go through the trouble of "mocking up" a big block in your early valiant, just to turn around and yank it back out. :rofl: :bs_flag:

So, you've got the 'for now' motor, the long rod 'for later' motor, and the big block 'for really later' motor that you're building motor mounts for? LOL My god - you have the same illness I have.

Rob - didn't you just build a cylinder head for that motor? The one you shaved a half an inch off. lol

That's exactly what I did on my 68 340 Dart. Not sure why more folks don't do it this way.

What were they rated from the factory?

“Because you can” is a good enough reason to try almost anything!

Kick ***!!! That little slant is a lot quicker than a lot of high dyno hp cars around.

So someone who knows what they are doing from FABO went and looked at it? Where the heck is he on this thread? Let's hear from someone who knows what they are looking at tell us the situation with the engine in question.

Is this thread a joke?