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I've replaced dozens of those old "grown in" rope seals without crank loose any, steel tubing has always worked the best for me

I have had best results using a straight length (8") of 3/16 steel tubing, place it in outer area of groove and beat it on through, it will simply bend and follow the groove around, pushing out the old seal. Be sure and use steel tubing, not the hybrid ni-cop B.S. all the parts house's are...

When you see how small and fragile the parts inside a 200 look, even with all the hardened hd upgrades, I think it did good to go that long on the street with all the beatings!

4-pinion stock planets will be fine, just make sure they are correct spline angle, ('62-'75 or '76-'94 ). The '76-up have the strongest spline angle, just make sure you have the matching output shaft, it also helps longevity to reduce the gear-train end-play to .010-.015 (not to be confused with...

the spline angle is different on the 47/48re than the early 727, won't fit without BIG hammer!

I had the same problem several years ago with Harland Sharp rockers, it was said to be a bad run of adjusters(brittle) and they sent me an entire set for free, no more issues. I hope this was from an older set of rockers, i'd hate to think they were having an issue again, they're my favorite...

It is not essential, at most levels, however it has proven to be quicker (reverse pattern) on torqueflite's for decades. Its definitely not trendy! The way that it totally gets rid of overlap is quite simple, since there is no needfor auto shifting, several circuits of the valve body can become...

Biggest (and best) difference between forward and reverse pattern is clutch/band overlap during shifts. Reverse pattern valve body is much "cleaner" shifting and always quicker. As with any manual valve body, shifter adjustment is crucial and should be part of routine checks, you can smoke a 3k...

Too much converter for a 440 in a car that heavy, you really need it tighter to take advantage of all the midrange torque they make, but then you will definitely need slicks!

Absolutely normal, as a matter of fact I normally pull mine in manual low in slow stop and go traffic or parking lots just to keep it from having the harsh back-out upshift.Every one I've ever driven does it.

We try to stage @150-160,have no idea what egt were getting(tune by temp build, mph) As far as temperature vs. consistency during a race, its very similar to gas only tighter, they love cold dry air, one thing to mention, we notice more variance in e.t. in relation to how long were idle(waiting...

My brother and I have been running E-85 for years, and have converted many racers and carburetors to it. Here are some interesting things we have noticed that many may not agree with(80-plus wins in 7 years by one car doesn't lie) a. Go ahead and drill out squirters with .062 drill, any...

I recommend e-85 to anybody that races.We have been running it for 6yrs. in our bracket cars(71 & 73 Duster's), and love all aspects of it.I have also converted several brand X cars to it, and every combination from mild to wild picked up an average of .15 e.t. and 1-2 mph. We are relatively...

It was a Mopar,at the time of the original build,a f-steel crank was higher than nuts on a giraffe! These combos are very common now,so we built it back with a K-1.

We ran a '72 360 block,filled with a girdle,over 1100 1/8 mile passes before the cast 4" crank finally broke.It broke just before the 6500 shift point,and the only damage to the block was where the #7&8 rod dinged it! this engine made 639 h.p. but we never turned it past 6800

Bought a pair back in 2007,built a 414" stroker,only did mild port clean-up(non-cnc'd)and have been pleased with performance.Engine is in a 3,400 pound Duster that consistantly runs 6.3-6.40's in the eighth mile.Has over 1100 passes with no issues with heads or Indy rocker's.

Just a few things to consider as far as diagnosis,have you swapped converter or engine lately?What type of flexplate,etc..I have personally had more than a few aftermarket converters with mis-machined hubs.Your gonna ask five people about what type of bushing to...

No issues for years with the ball valve.The tank will go under pressure,slight vacuum as temps change,but keep in mind,if the car only sits for a couple of weeks at a time,you don't need to do anything.As far as the separator goes,I don't think it would work unless your talking about the big...

Pump bushing,pressed in behind front seal,sounds like it welded itself to the converter hub.It most likely trashed the converter and pump.

we see an average of 2 mph/.15 better performance in 1/8 mile drag racing over gasoline.It has other benefits as well,cost being the biggest.

Been running E-85 for 5-years now in our drag cars,we don't have aluminum tank's,but about the only way to keep moisture out of any fuel cell is with a simple ball-valve on the vent hose.It also helps to keep it out of the elements while sitting dorment.Just be sure if it does sit for long...

I agree "Angry Johnny",them big blocks don't really care what there pulling.Swap outs from one to another are hard to compare when you can't even get two torque converters built to be identical! I hate to say it,but both of our bracket/1/8 mile cars are quicker and faster with glides.One is 3300...

I agree full manual torqueflite's are the way to go on fun street cars,it's just an issue with the pushbutton unit.I guess it also depends on how "shift happy" the driver is behind the buttons!As far as easy throttle pressure set-up's go, most cable kits fit almost any configuration.Try Mancini...

I remember seeing a great tech article on this! Believe it or not,go to Hot Rod magazine web-site,tech section,search headliner.

I love push-buttons,but,I think sooner or later your gonna regret a manual valve body with one.Frequent cable adjustments with any push-button manual is a fact of life when racing with them,I can only imagine what a pain this could turn into on a street car.(full manual valve bodies are far more...

Turbo Action or TSR will sell you the spring by itself,just be sure that you use the early,non contolled-apply servo(small pin).You can modify the later servo's,but its easier to use the old style.

You can use the orifice(3/16")if you want,this is really used to lessen overlap on the 2-3 shift when changing/modifying valve bodies when the transmission is in the car.If you are already building it,set up the front clutch with 12 return springs,and keep the clearance at .075-.085 on the front...

ALL torqueflites without a converter clutch(think pre-80's) can get away with almost anything.We have found Dexron fluids work best all around.Type F works great as well,it just has slightly less lubricity,that's only a concern for extremely high line pressures(race only)where the pump actually...

TF2 kit is recommended,mainly due to more "improvements while your there".I've used them all over the years,most are almost identical in mods to plate etc..If your trans hasn't been built in the last couple of decades,I wouldn't touch it! You might force an overhaul.