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Been awhile since I've posted anything....so here are a few ranging from July to last weekend. Started as wanting to replace the exhaust and rebuild the 904 (leaked from everywhere) and spruce up the tired /6...... well, then i found an 8 3/4 with a 489 chunk, axles and drums...

Fluids drained, removed radiator, now disconnecting wires, hoses, etc, in hopes of pulling the motor and trans today.

Trying to Figure out why my temp gauge peaks to the far right during warm up but then regulates itself at regular idle...same goes for the gas gauge. Probably something to do with the alternator making weird noises? Time to grab the volt meter. :banghead:

Really enjoying this thread! Your build progress is definitely keeping me motivated to keep going on my 73 Duster. :thumbrig:

73 Duster I'm building for my step-son.....re-did the electrical, floors, brakes, carb rebuilt, next is a tranny rebuild.....kinda hoping he doesn't want it after high school! :D

Yeah getting the snap rings off was a bit of a pain....but getting the front ring back ON was a real PITA. Finally got it all back together and buttoned up! Appreciate the help!

Patience and persistence finally paid off. After much pb blaster and "persuasion" I was able to remove the cover. Now to work on the next snap ring.

http://youtu.be/EZ5aDQqXacw Any ideas?! Losing my mind over here! :banghead:

Thanks! Still trying to work at it, the cover/housing spins left to right freely, and pops back in towards the dash, but out towards me is not happening. Looked all over for any screws but i'm at a loss. I'll give the pb blaster some more time to work.

So ...73 Duster auto ....I'm trying to change out the ignition cylinder lock and stuck at this part (see pic). Pulled the first snap ring so the cover "should" slide out towards me so i can get to the next part....damn thing spins but i'm yanking on it and it doesnt budge. Do i need to remove...

Nice! Read through your build links earlier today, love the turbo! Kudos on all the work!! :thumrigh:

Yes the are! I ended up ordering 235s for the rear. This is for my step-son so he wont mind the "thinner" wheel. Did you change your suspension? Thinking of replacing stock leafs with mancini xhd. They say it gives it a 1" raise over stock.

Would like to upgrade eventually, these 14x7s were uber cheap and practically new. Thanks!

Sorry if this is a thread jack...i have a 73 duster slant 6 with factory rear and small bolt pattern, Stock leafs and locations. Have 14x7 rear wheels with 4" bs. 245/60 on the rear fit ok or stick with 235s? Been looking at the wheel tire combo thread but just got more confused.

Yep, non-rallye. Thank you very much! :wave:

Will the fuel gauge from a 70-72 Duster work for a 73 Duster? Is the dash cluster the same or did they change around the internals?

Thank you both for your help and insight. If anything, I have learned a whole heck of a lot! Now to search for a newer or NOS fuel gauge.

Ok, so measured and input side of regulator is showing 11v. Not 12v. Even plugged in the battery tender thinking i ran down the battery with all the testing.....re-measured, same outcome....and yet, the other studs (temp & alt) are getting 4.9v. I'm at a loss. This thing is on its own agenda.

Reading on fuel gauge.

24.1 ohms at almost full mark on sender.

Ran the test exactly as you specified. Sender was at half way point (next to me on the floorboard) ran clips from sender to gauge stud and ground from sender to cluster ground bolt. No movement on needle. Measured at stud and ground screw, now reading 4v. Moved sender to full position, needle...

Well 34ohms was at the half way mark. At the full mark it read about 15. Oh and I re-measured with the meter prepped correctly. Everything read at 5v. Think I will just get a new sender and see what happens.

Lastly, i ran a new wire from the kick panel connector directly to the sender (thinking that maybe the actual connector was faulty) as nm9stheham and 67dart273 previously suggested. Exactly the same results. Its as if the sender only starts working after the half way point. But bench tests show...

Now when the float was moved to the "full" setting.....gauge went to ALMOST full. Doesn't go any further.

....reads just a tick above empty.

Even at the full mark, it showed about 15ohms.....but when i hooked it back up to the sending wire and turned on the battery, even if the float was at the "half way" mark........

Here it is on "half a tank".

Found something interesting when i tested the sender.....oh btw I yanked the sender to test it outside of the tank. Just easier for me to literally visualize everything. Based on the bench tests, sender should be fine. Here it is on "empty".

62.3 was the reading at the sender...theres at least 1/4 tank of gas.

But i will also try your previous suggestion as well.