Search results for query: *

this should probably be in 'for sale' but here it is. saw this on cl today, two /6s for sale. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/2136821277.html i don't know who this is or talked to him, but somebody might want to jump on this. i would, but no workspace right now. :(

well, pulled the connection at the dash, dab of white lithium grease, jammed it back in, no noise since.

this is what you shouldn't do with your classic mopar http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gn-nGl5u7ZY

dam, you just beat me to posting this!! my mom sent me this link, and said "don't drive like this, please!" hahahaha!!! i replied, 'i would if i had a car like that!" i would probably be over the edge of that banking in under a minute, though. i'm not a big drifting fan, but holy hell that...

killer, doesn't sound too hard. thanks, i'll give it a shot and let ya'll know how it went.

not sure if this is the right forum, but... my speedo recently started doing this crazy bouncing back and forth and making a buzzing/grinding/whirring noise. it's intermittent. it usually starts if i go over a harsh bump at freeway speeds, and stops if i pull to a stop or just beat on the...

slant had been running poorly, really loud ticking, loss of power, rough idle, etc... monday i opened the valve cover to see what was up, and rod for intake #5 was bent pretty bad. i couldn't think what caused this, i haven't revved the motor past 3500 rpm, haven't had any backfires since...

i would think that as long as the vacuum advance for the dist was hooked up it should be ok. just cap the open ports. post some pics! i remember a line from the intake manifold to airfilter housing, also another one from carb to same. when i got my /6 duster there were a few capped lines...

well, lucky for me the heat wave ended and the dusters been running cool. new t-stat going in. (with holes for purging air :-D) thanks for the tips!

too true. 'analysis paralysis' for me, it's mostly just bench racing anyway.

couple questions about plugs. got the ngks (zfr5n), gapped them to .040, pulled the washers off. seemed to run well. after about 300 miles i pulled them to see how they're holding up. it looks like #1 is getting oil on it/burning oil. maybe bad valve seal, but it looks like there's oil...

lots of overheating issues/questions these days, so heres one more. hottest day of the year yesterday, 101f, cruising at noon down the freeway, engine running around 210-220 (2/3 to H on gage)for 15 minutes or so. later, when the outside temps went down, the car ran perfectly cool. this is a...

offy intake holley 390, vac secs, elec choke head milled .090" ss valves from enginebuilder (1.70, 1.44) head ported/polished by me mopar valve springs (for a 340?) high pressure relief springs for oil pump hooker super comp headers, dual exhaust mopar perf. cam

well, reset lash at .020 intake .024 exhaust, set idle at 700 rpm. runs like a Champ!! smooth idle, pulls hard, feels great, and no noticeable valve clacking! didn't get it too fast though. when pulling to a stop, the revs drop kinda low, stumbles slightly. got the day off tomorrow, so i'll...

yeah, stock stall converter. i should have swapped that out while engine was out. just wasn't sure exactly what i should be looking for as far as stall speed. commando, by mechanical you mean solid lifters? if so, yes. i sure don't wan to damage the valvetrain, so wider they go. it's just...

so i have a mopar performance cam in my slant. included with the cam were several pages of install instructions/lit etc. the cam is mp 268-108. 268* duration 52* overlap .460" lift. heres my problem. they included two valve lash specs. one says .028 intake, .032 exhaust. another one...

i've got my passenger side sitting lower than drivers, went out to adjust it today. my manual says to make the adjustment with wheels on the ground. also, after changing height, the final adjustment needs to be in the up direction. any truth to that?

i hear you guys about getting beat up at work. some days after playing with the duster, hands and arms get cramped up from all the crazy 'gettin in there'. i really do hate to think about what kind of damage i'm doing to my body with all the chemicals. how many times have you guys washed your...

saw one on a beater mustang down in san diego; 'my other ride is your mom'

i've been really thinking lately about changing jobs. (careers?) i've been working in a grocery store for more than 11 years, and don't get me wrong, it pays the bills, i get health insurance, retirement funds, etc. however this job is just mind numbingly boring. since i'm a gearhead i...

what gap are you guys running on the ngks?

thanks all! who says you cant polish a turd? lol i don't know hp or tq numbers, mileage seemed to be about the same as before the build, even with all of the old parts in the trunk. here are some fun facts: cam: mopar 'purple' cam, 0.460" lift, 268* duration, 104 centerline head...

yeeeeee-haaaaaaaw!! finally got off of my a$$ and got my motor together. this friggin thing fought us tooth and nail, but we ended up on top! :-D it had started dieseling, running rough, poor mileage, etc, so it was time to go. here's some pics showing before and after. maybe some 'during'...

is it a hole that can be plugged? missing vacuum line? just did some work on my car and have the old 1920 sitting in my trunk. it leaked a little from the throttle shaft but otherwise was nice. depending where you are i might be able to ship to you for small fee. you probably want a new...

this is what i've got going into my motor. i haven't run it yet, so i can't say how it will perform, but i think it will be a strong runner. used head (complete with rockers, valve cover, etc) from pick n pull $150 big valves (1.44 and 1.70?) from 'engine builder' on ebay $80 valve...

thanks for the offers for help, but already got a new damper from csk. i guessed that the bolt wasn't really needed, but wanted to be sure. i knew i shouldn't have used the claw puller, but at 2am, after several beverages, and all the degreaser fumes (among others...) the old brain box...

i've got a holley 390cfm with elec. choke that i got used and rebuilt. i'm using it on my slant six that has just had a newly rebuilt top end (head, cam, intake, exhaust) bolted up. the issue that i have is that to break in the cam properly the engine has to run nonstop for 30 plus minutes...

pulled the slant a couple of days ago, and started disassembling. noticed that the crank snout has threads in it, but no bolt. is this only for placing a bolt to press on the damper? should there be a bolt/washer combo to hold the damper on? i've had the car for several years now, and as far...

"every a$$hole who ever chanted 'drill, baby, drill' should report to the gulf coast for clean-up duty immediately!" -Bill Maher gotta jump in on this one. we should be trying EVERYTHING in our means to clean this mess up. it is gonna wreck the whole fishing/shrimping/tourism and all other...

oh, jeezus, thank you SOOOO much for that!!!!! i literallly laughed till i cried! the soccer practice escort... holy isht this guy is the most hilarious a-hole i've never met!!