Search results for query: *

Now i have the pcv crap out of the way i was wondering what i should set the initial timing at on the 360? what should the initial and total timing be at? I have no idea what the specs should be. Also im going to be swapping the POS stock holley 2bbl out and gonna run a stock 4bbl manifold and...

Its a pcv valve. I was just showing the crack. I have another just like it but is just a breather and has a bigger opening

Ill post pic tomorrow.

So ive anyone ever buys those chrome pcv valve id examine them close befor purchase

Crack was on the bottom side of chrome push on pcv valve causinig it to pull manifold vacuum through it. Thats why it was rattling like crazy.

Warranty will void if i take it apart. The company marks everthing so the know if its been tampered with. Trying to get cash refund. Thinking of aftermatket intake and edelbrock carb.

The cheap chrome pcv was definitely the problem and defective. I took it off and examined is and found it had a crack half way around it on the bottom side causing it not to work properly and cause a huge vacuum leak. So i replaced it with a factory style one and all is good with that problem...

Im working on a Small Block 360. The rattling im talking about it the pcv valve going crazy at idle from vacuum sucking through im guessing. I was just thinking of going a and buying a stock replacement valve from the parts store and ditching the cheap chrome one.

Vacuum at idle is Engine idles at about 20 HG and timing set at 8 degrees BTDC. Runs real good with out pcv hooked up. With pcv hooked up at idle it runs like **** and you can hear the pcv rattling like crazy and engine runs like it has a major vacuum leak until rpms get higher

Engine is a fresh rebuild.

Took the distributor out to have a look at it and found that it was just a big POS lol. The remanufacturing job done on it was crap so i decided to return it along with the cap and rotor and used the money from the refund and bought a brand new distributor with a cap and rotor along with a new...

I am having possible ignition problems. I was wondering if anyone has had problems with reman stock distributors? My distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, and wires are all new. I am having problems with trying to get to run smooth at idle. Im thinking that something in the ignition system is causing...

Not having good ground connections cause ignition issues? Cause rough idle ect.....?

I am wondering where all the proper locations for grounding would be to the engine and body ect.... Also if the the engine ground wires aren't grounded good enough or in the right places what would be expected symptoms and problems?

My brothers friend is the guy that assembled the engine but he had a couple different shops do the machine work.

Finally received my engine back with a threaded whole checked and busted bolt removed. Now i am going to start putting it back together. Hopefully i can get it all squared away and installed this weekend withour any problems.

WOW i found this today when i went to chech the rockers. Engine going back to the person and gonna be fixed. This car has become a nightmare and waste of money

I actually installed the pan and everything looked right.

Ok so the driver side of the engine i star from the front of the engine with LH the RH all the way down. What about the passenger side of the engine? Do i start from the back of the engine and work my way to the front in the sequence of LH then RH. Im just a little confused on that

Thanks for everyones replies. Im off tomorrow so i will have to pull it apart and get it all squared away. It sounds like an easy fix and should be able to figure it all out. Hopefully

Ordered some and installed thanks everyone. No i ran into another problem and need help. I posted a new thread in the small block section.

Had my engine rebuilt and im in the process of getting everything ready to drop it in. I pulled the valve covers to paint the intake and noticed this on the passenger side of the engine. Whats going on here and how to correct this. I know this is definitely wrong and will cause serious problems

Ok cool does anyone know of a good place i can get a new manifold bolt and stud kit?

Was wondering if i have to use studs on eah end of the heads for the exhaust manifolds? Also if i do where can i get a good set from. I was going to use regular grade 8 bolts but i noticed the holes go all the way through and dont want any leaks.

Movement is more than .01 The torque converter is a reconditioned one from the rebuilder. Wish I knew how to post videos on here. I would take a video and post it.

100% positive its all the way in. you cant put your fingers behind it and also it clicked 3 times and the back of the TQ rubs against the pump

just got the tranny back from being rebuilt and still seems to have to much paly. like before rebuild. can move it side to side and up and down quite a bit with your hands. also all the way seated the TQ rubs the pump

I asked this in another post bit no replys. Ok when the torque converter is seated all the way in the pump is there supposed to be movement from side to side and up and down? Or should it be in nice and snug without any movement?

Thanks. I believe I have found the problem. When the TQ is seated all the way in the tranny it wobbles around in the pump and is not snug. It will move side to side and up and down. I believe it should not be able to do that