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Just picked up a '69 Dart GT Ragtop. No tensioner bar to hold the trunk up. I was wondering if any a body bar will work? Any ideas?

Ad a hood to the list.....

Hey all, Just got a '69 DART GT Convertible, need a driver's side fender, grille, bumper, left bumper bracket... Other than that, it's in great shape. Also selling a '74 Duster, 318 3 spd on floor, 90% complete, runs great! Email me [email protected] Tim - Aurora, Co

Any issues with using a head from a '77-'78 /6 on a '68 block?

There is a spring, could it just be worn? I'm not passing over the hockey pucks as an idea yet...

waiting for that answer as I write this.....doesn't look like it though, only 5 qts missing out of the case of "Daddy's oil".

Duhhhh......No it's not. He has the really pretty MOPAR valve covers on it and no breather, never noticed it. And of course we don't have an extra without the vent tube that goes to the breather, which doesn't have the hose fitting. He's running out after dinner and going to get one....damn I...

My son's '74 Duster has the 3 spd manual on the floor. We have a fairly new 318 in it, we cut the fly wheel already, new trw clutch kit, throw out bearing, etc.....we had the Z-bar rebuilt and thought everything was cool. The clutch works, transmission shifts fine but the clutch pedal only comes...

We dropped a used rebuilt 318 (3,000 miles on engine from a t-boned '78 Ram Charger) into my son's '74 duster, 3 speed M/T. Edelbrock performer intake and 1406 carb, stock exhaust still on it, swapped the pan and oil pick up out from the truck and used the old pan and pump which worked fine. No...

How about a standard diagram for a 2 bbl? I'm hoping it's close to the same set up.

Does anyone have a link for a vacuum hose diagram for a '74 318, Edelbrock intake and 650 cfm, manual transmission. Thanks for any help

Thanks a bunch....hopefully I can finish off the exhaust this afternoon and get her filled with fluids and running.

What are the size for the end studs for the small block exhaust manifolds? The one's I'm finding at the local places aren't working?

Got a beautiful set that came out of a '74 Scamp, Highback bench, center arm rest black with red trim, matching back seat skins, both door panels and back panels if you're interested e-mail me @ [email protected] I don't get a chance to check the site as much as I'd like.

I guess bleeding for the umpteenth time did the trick. I gravity bled, then redid it one more time and it seems I'm back to normal. Took about three pumps all the way around to get the excess air out. Thanks again for all the input, I appreciate everyone opinions and help.

I took tomorrow off to work on them again. I'm going to try the pump, then open, close, pump, open, etc. Then I'll try re3moving the calipers. I bled them again on Sunday and got more pedal, but it's still "not right" if you know what I mean.

Bleeders up and forward. Bleweding by openning valve, let it drain slightly, pump to the floor until a steady stream appears, repeat 4-5 times, hold to the floor, close valve. Refill reservoir, repeat back passenger, then move to the fronts.

Bleeding in this order: Pass rear, Driver Rear, Pass front, Driver front. As far as I know I didn't blow a line or cylinder. The pass rear cylinder was gunked up and only one side was working, thus the replacement. I figured replace one, replace two....

ARRRRGH! I'm pulling my hair out over my brakes. '74 Valiant, 318 2 bbl. Disc Front, Drum back, power brakes. I replaced the front rotors, calipers, hoses, pads and got speed bleeders on the front. Got new drums, shoes for rear and got new wheel cylinders. First the auto parts place sold me the...

Went to the Russel site at your suggestion and they don't have anything listed post '72 for any Mopar A-Body. Which ones did you use, and on which car? I'm looking for a disc/drum on a '74 Valiant and Duster.

I have an extra set of A Body Uppers, but I was looking at a '77 Volare this weekend at a local junkie and everything looked the same. I had the "One extra set is good, two is even better" thought. Figured I'd ask here to see if the busted kuckles would be worth it. I'm pretty sure I'm going to...

Wow, great information. The article Keith mentioned explained allot. Appreeciate all the input thus far. So, and yes I'm a bit slow, there is no other upper A-Arms that can be used without Mods than those perviously mentioned.

Will upper control arms, ball joints, spindles, etc from a 76-80 Volare swap over to an A-Body? If they do, anyone know what years?

Here’s a beautiful 1974 Plymouth Valiant 4 door, 318 c.i (84,000 original miles – that’s 2,400 miles per year over 35 years) 904 A/T, working (COLD!) factory A/C, AM/FM radio, Electronic Ignition (no points) Power Disc Front Brakes. The car starts right up and runs, drives and looks great...

Big DUHHHHHHHH! Simple fix. When we put the carb back on we didn't put a return spring back on the rod and it was floppy. Put a new spring on and it shifts smooth at the right speeds. I originally went to shorten up the rod as suggested and realized it was the solid style, not adjustable, so...

NAPA Auto had Rotors for $29.99 each, $63.03 with taxes. The rear drums for a '74 Duster were something like $48.00 each.

To clarify, I didn't go over 40 when I took it for the test ride. Now that there's no leak in the intake it's runs smooth. That may be an issue with creating more vaccum, I'm not sure. But when I took it over 40 the 2nd day it seemed like it wasn't hitting the next gear. It wasn't whining or...

'74 Valiant 318 with a 904. I hade to replace the intake manifold gasket, took everythign apart, replaced, then put it all together. Waited for everything to set then gave it a quick drive around the block. Shifted a little harder at 22 mph than in the past, but didn't go over 40. Took it...

May have what you're looking for, can u email me at [email protected]? Tim