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I've got a friend with a pair of '68 Fury IIIs. One is a 2-door and the other is a 4-door. I don't know if he'd sell the quarters off of the 4-door but I'm sure it would be expensive to ship.

I'd say it depends on how much time you have on your hands, the condition of the car, how many re-paints it's already had, and how nice you want it to be when done. - If you're switching color might be a factor too. If it's going to be a (non-show car) daily driver and the existing paint...

That's the way my old '69 Sixpack Bee was optioned. - No carpet, - just rubber floor mat. I haven't seen many others that way.

I put a full AMD floorpan in our '68 Charger. Handling that large chunk of tin is a handful. Trying to get it to fit takes a lot of patience because there's so many feet of mating edges to contend with. All of the areas such as the seat reinforcing brackets lined up well. The most difficult...

Dang! That would definitely give me reason to be concerned. I haven't seen anything at all happening like that on the Roadrunner. Maybe you were right about some kind of 'chemical' reaction with those signs you used. I don't think it's an issue with the stuff we used. The car spent 2 years...

Maybe the paint faded around the outside of the sign where it wasn't covered? I haven't noticed any color difference around the Roadrunner's cowl vents but it may be because we've got them cut to the same size & shape of the openings.

They don't scratch the paint but after a few years the sun bakes them and they need to be replaced.

On my son's Roadrunner we put magnetic printer sheets over the cowl vents for when the car sits. It prevents dirt and leaves from getting inside and they don't blow off if you drive around with them on. They sell 8 X 11 sheets at places like Walmart (for making fridge magnets) and you can cut...

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One problem that you often see when someone is 'conservative' on rust repair is that it comes back. The best repair would be a full quarter. There are other considerations though. You can get by cheaper with a partial as long as ALL of the 'iffy' sheetmetal is replaced. If you're going to...

Here are a few links to some POWER NATION videos about trimming the hood by tying the inner & outer sheet metal together. http://powernationtv.com/two-minute-tech/2min-209/how-to-trim-a-hood-for-a-blower-part-1...

I would think that if you're going to chain the motor or put some other form of movement limiter on it you'd be OK. The higher the position of the intake/carbs/air cleaner, the farther it will move. Without some form of limiting engine movement you'll probably still be OK, but I think I'd test...

You didn't mention anything about using a scoop, so I'm guessing you're possibly running a tunnel ram or supercharger that will stick through the hood. There are so many different ways to go about finishing the edges of a hole you cut in your hood. The amount of bracing you'll need depends on...

Stinger Fiberglass (sold through AAR) is one the most reliable for good quality but their fenders list for $395. https://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/catalog/779

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Just remember to post about the failures too. It's always a lot more educational and sometimes more entertaining. If all we ever read were stories about how well things went, nobody would ever learn anything. Good luck!

Just keep in mind that it's really easy to create more damage than positive progress when you're working with the lead. Heat can cause a lot of distortion. It's important to prepare the surface the very best you can before you start. If you don't you may find that you will be putting the heat...

I've done it before but it was a long time ago (like 30 years). I don't know how accurate my recollection is but I seem to remember trying to get the heat correct on the panels to control the flow of the lead being one of the key factors. Too hot and the lead would run, too cool and you...

- More common than you'd think. Here's my '72.

Oops! missed that. In that case, I'd probably custom mix Argent with a greenish tint so it would tie in.

With that black vinyl top I think that a black stripe would be most appropriate. If you had a white vinyl, I'd go white. The green is pretty dark so a black stripe won't show up very well. If your hood was black though then it might carry the whole black/green better throughout the car.

I've always been able to find such things at NAPA.

Our door and wing windows close perfectly now but it was nearly impossible to close our wing windows when we first bought the car.

It's been awhile since I adjusted ours and I can't be certain but as I recall there was some adjustment for where the channel/frame is positioned in the door. One of the points that I seem to remember was a 1/2" nut located behind a plastic plug just in front of the interior door panel. If I...

We had the same problem with my son's '70 Roadrunner. There are adjustments for the wing window/front track assembly that will fix most (if not all) of the issue. After making our adjustment we also had to tweak the wing window forward by applying pressure to it. - Just be cautious not to...

I had to revamp mine. There were a number of problems. The old grease had caked in the tracks and was hard. I had broken rollers. The crank/gear mechanism had just enough corrosion to add additional resistance. I cleaned and lubed with white lithium grease, replaced the broken rollers and...

EddyLucast, Thanks for the detailed write up on the 2 products. I've successfully been using POR-15 for several years and had not seriously considered other brands before. After reading your post I think I'll start checking into KBS Rustseal.

If black is one of your potential future color choices, I'd go black. The white engine bay looks good on the Hemi Honker partially because there's a fair amount of white on the car's exterior. For some reason race cars can get away with wilder schemes than street cars and still look great...

I don't think it sounds 'redneck' at all. The scoops are sort of a race look anyway so I don't consider the exposed rivets to be out of place. It's easier. It's quicker. And as you say, the problem with cracking is eliminated. I guess it all depends on the final appearance you're trying to...