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I bet you wish a good resistance spot welder wasn't pushing $20,000. Nice work!

Nice!

Post pics, let's see it.

Clark signs in Scappoose Oregon.

The 68 stripe design it just straight lines. I had the local sign shop, computer cut mine out of 3M automotive vinyl. I hand cut the curve just short of the wheel openings. Cost $20 (10 years ago) and they look as good as the day I put them on.

Thats a nice one.

This is why people shouldn't overlook the stock colors. Looks fantastic.

Did you blend or are you butt matching? That should be blended.

I think I would stick a key in it and call it done.

If you haven't done this before, hire a body man to do it that will let you watch. If you don't, at best you will end up mudding all the way around the door, at worst you will need to get another skin and hire a body man to do it that will let you watch.

By the time you get them out you will probably be scrapping those doors too. Not worth the effort to remove a little weight from the center of the car unless this thing is a hot, dedicated track car. But like mentioned above..... Take the door skin off and be prepared for a bunch of body work...

I like it both ways. That's the nice thing about tape stripes, you can have it both ways. Put them on, take them off..... Put them on again. Cars looking good!

This for sure. A couple hours of pulling will make repairing that much less of a headache.

Sometimes the insurance companies do weird things. We just had a Hummer H3 total for frame damage. Got hit in the right rear and bent the rail about 30 degrees down, 12" from the end. It bent in an area that it was designed to bend for impact absorption. We got an insurance quality, used...

Something totaled it. Have you seen a repair estimate? Has to be more than airbag deployment. Bags + module + tensioners + assorted bits, maybe, what, $6,000 as a high guess. My guess is that the bags were fired by an inertia sensor, not a crash sensor. That's why (for me at least), viewing...

You sure can't see what totaled it from the top side. I would like to see the underside.

Just the airbag components are going to be a fortune. Control module, seat sensors, seat belt pre tensioner, airbags. If you don't do it correctly you could be responsible for killing a 4 year old little girl and her puppy if they are ever in that car and it's involved in another collision...

All factory 340 cars have a somewhat low production number. Add a 4 speed and the number gets even lower. When you say "it looks like it came with a 340 4 speed", what are you using to make that determination? Did you decode the vin? That will tell you flat out, if it was a factory 340 car...

If you are worried about cost I would look at a small block for the replacement of the slant.

Awesome!

coker tires also has redline tires. Yes, the redline is thin, not wide.

A redline tire will cost, at least, 3x that of a 13" white wall (+ wheels because I don't know if they make a 13" redline).

Yup, it needs white walls.

That's the recipe for success right there.

You need to test your cooling system. Idling in a driveway (most likely with the hood open) is not a test of your cooling system. Your hood is part of your cooling system...... Go drive it on a nice clear road at 45+ mph and see what it does. If it runs cool at 45+ (or cools down at that...

What does it do out on the road?

When is it overheating? Out on the open highway going 45+? Idling in traffic? Not that it really matters but what temp thermostat?

Tubbing won't make a bit of difference, in value, on an already non-stock GT.

Anything from 1963 is rare at this point but being rare and having extreme value are two, totally different things. If that is what you are getting at.....

That looks right. The factory gaps in that area were 100% total crap when compared to todays gaps. Notice that the shape of the top of the door (making the door side of the gap) is also different side to side. That's also normal. Gap between the fender and rocker can be all over the place...