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I WISH I could get panels for the prices you quote, but I live in the great white north, and we get raped by the exchange and shipping! As far as the welding it will not cost me anything.

And I really don't want to replace a perfect original trunk floor if it is not required.

But the full panel here in Canada is $416.00 plus shipping!

Looked at AMD, but don't want to buy a full trunk panel just to cut the well out. Thanks for the summit link!

This SMALL project has really gone south on me. I discovered about a year ago that my spare tire well has pin holes in it. Been having trouble finding a used well that was rust free so I decided to buy new. Now I can't even find a new one!!! Has anyone here had this problem, and HOW were you...

Take the car to a paint dealer and they can take a picture of the paint with a special camera that will allow them to match the paint in a rattle can.

Go to Home Depot and get Dull Aluminum by Krylon. I used it in my grill and I am happy with it.

try RT specialties

Not scoops, but I painted my rad support with a rattle can and was pleased with the results. I went to a paint shop and had them mix up the color and put it on a rattle can. Take your time and apply light coats to start and it will be fine. Just remember that the prep is actually more important...

Home Depot- dull aluminum (krylon)

no seal

I believe that they are the same, but I might be wrong.

Of course I took the car out last fall and filled the tank before I put it away!

Kind what I thought would be the case.

By the looks of things I will be replacing the bottom of my spare tire well but the gas tank is in the car. How close is the tank to the well? Can I cut the bottom out of the wheel without also cutting the gas tank?

Surprise, surprise! When I was stripping the spare tire well I found some pin holes in the bottom of the well. So I guess that I will need to replace the bottom of the well at the same time.

The thickness is not the problem. I would just paint over it but the rust proofer is soft. The reason I know this is that I tried to paint over it today with trunk paint and the rust proofer bled through the paint and ruined it.

I am REALLY worried about the inside of the quarter panel as I do NOT want to screw up my paint on the outside!!

I see a respirator in my near future as I have breathing problems that I don't need to make worse. The trunk is completely covered with the crap, partly my fault!!

Mine is asphalt based rust proofer that does not ever really get completely hard. I have stripped some already using a putty knife, reducer and a wire brush on a grinder. It is a major PITA, but will be worth it once I am done. Just got to decide how to finish it once the black hell is all removed!

My wife made the mistake of saying that the trunk in our Dart did not look very good. After looking at a number of different things I realized that the only way to go was to remove the rust proofing that had been put on by a PO and redone by me. I now have a lot of work to do as the whole trunk...

I prefer blacked out myself. JMO

I am in the process if getting chrome so I can add it to my 68 Dart. I for one like the look of this trim! That being said I still need to find the ends the go on the back by the back window as mine are not great!

Start with the floor always. Just like a house you need a good foundation before you work on the walls and roof!

cool, thanks for sharing!

X2!!!!

it us a lot of work, but there is a member here that put a challenger scope on his a body and it looked bad ***!

hell no!

I just went ahead and blacked out the whole area in matt black.

They will fit all years of darts for sure. They are not quite the same as a 68 because of the location of the inside door lock