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I used a dental pick or you can use a very small common screwdriver to push back the little tab that catches.

Hmmmmmmmmm. Maybe that's why no one has one. I can always just hook up a button under the dash. I did have the foot bulb but changed over to the electric pump. I have a two speed motor so I may have to just wire up a button for the safety inspection. I hope there is such a thing as a two speed...

BUMP. I'm still looking for one of these, does no one make them anymore? This is my last item before hitting the road. I think I've got my electrical gremlin's sorted out thanks to all the help from you guys, especially the Guru RedFish. Someone has got to have one, its not a hemi dart master...

Good idea, they all checked out with the wiring diagram. The more I get into it I think my light switch is the culprit. As long as the black wire is supposed to be hot I'm sure its the switch. Too bad it took two circuit boards and a bald spot to figure it out. Sure hope I'm right this time...

Bump. I was able to find a head light switch at the local parts stores but no luck with the wiper switch. I still need one if anyone has a good one or knows where you can order them on line. Thanks

I've got a new head light switch on order but sure need the panel fixed. What's your interests, I'll send you something as I really appreciate this.

I'm contemplating replacing the entire under dash harness with a new one. My back and sanity have to be worth more than what ever it would cost me. I may take both panels to a TV repair guy and see if he can fix them.

^#$^&#&^ GREAT! Now I have two circuit panels that look like this! I'm so F'n sick of this issue. I can't understand why my gauges peg and I keep frying panels. All I want is some gauges! Can this panel be fixed or am I searching for a new one. It took me forever to find this and I've been...

This keeps getting worse! I don't think the circuit board is the problem. Its all good until I turn the ignition to the on position, then my gauges spike. I also get power to the black wires in the plugs on either side of the gauge cluster when the ignition is in the on position. I thought Black...

Wires check out OK. The only two that power up with the light switch are the orange ones on either side of the panel. Some how the circuit board is jumping circuits but it looks fine? The bald spot on my head grows with every scratch?

Ok here it is! I did notice a little flux residue between the far right and the next pin. I had to solder the far right pin as it was broken off. I've cleaned that off but it shouldn't have powered up the whole casting?

I think your right. It all seems to work as far as wires go but I'm getting power to the whole aluminium casting for the gauges. I changed the circuit board yesterday and wonder if there isn't supposed to be some sort of insulation between it and the casting?

%$#@%@ OK I pulled the switch, cleaned the connectors again and put a lite cote of conductive grease on the spade connectors. The beige wire on the back of the switch now has power and so does the first fuse. However my temp and fuel gauge still max out and my directional arrows come on in the...

Redfish, I'm not sure what the wiring luddites like me would do without you. So even with the light switch pulled I'm getting no power to the first fuse. I do get power to the female spade connecter you can see hanging beside the kick panel when I pull the switch. It has two black wire into one...

I'm not even getting power to the back of the fuse box on that fuse. You may be right as far as a bad wire go. More Mopar yoga positions under the dash today.

This is the best $20 I have ever spent when it comes to tools for my car. For those of you who are "Attention Deficit Disorder" like me and forget what the hell you were looking for in the first place when you get to the other point in a wiring diagram this is a great help. Its all correctly...

So with all my head lights working could it be the switch not sending power to the dash lights? Thanks

So far all i've managed to figure out is that taking the drivers seat out makes this a lot less back breaking. I was starting to feel like a bat with all that hanging upside down. Man its no fun working under the dash, you cant see or reach anything and everything is sharp!.

So I'm weeks from being on the road pending the safety inspection. I need everything to be working and I can't get any instrument panel lights to work. I also have no power to the far left fuse even with the ignition on. I don't have the radio hooked up and following the diagram its in that loop...

I need a wiper switch for a 1969 dart. Its a two speed with the push button washer. PM me if you have a good one for sale. Thanks Dave

Fixed! It was a faulty voltage reducer, fried circuit on the back of the board and a broken pin on the back. Some solder, a new voltage reducer and I'm off to the races! Well not quite, but I'm closer to getting the safety inspection.

Thats great. I hope to have it all sorted out this weekend as well. Ironic we both have 69 GTS's and are having the same issue at the same time. There can't be more than 1500 69 GTS's left on the planet ...... what are the odds.

Found it. Looks like one of the circuits on my board is fried as well. I'm going to pick up a new one tomorrow and I may as well bypass the amp gauge while I have half the dash apart. Thanks all

What does the instrument voltage limiter look like and is it easier to pull the whole gauge cluster or do the contortionist act under the dash? My temp and fuel gauges just quit. Thanks

Yup. now my front left just quit! Not the bulb and was working fine! It never ends sometimes. lol

That did it. Thanks wyoduster.

Nope. I'll change the other one and hope for the best. I assume any auto parts store will have them. Thanks a ton

I'm close to getting the Dart on the road but still have some electrical issues. I have all the lights working, the flashers working and just installed a new turn signal switch in the steering column. I still have no turn signals how ever the horn works and everything else seems to. I have a...

I just re worked my old one. Cleaned up all the connections and did a fair bit of soldering and heat shrinking new connectors on. Mine was in good shape though. The diagram is great. I've rewired several old land rovers I've restored and have always bought new harnesses as most of them have been...

Yes, there is a plate that goes over the hole in the fire wall. I didn't go this route as I wanted to keep my car some what original looking under the hood. I bought a color wiring diagram off ebay that came laminated and properly color coded. The diagram helped a ton as its large and easy to...