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I"ll look for something like Noico. DynaMat seems excessively priced. This may be the way to go with this.

I didn't know there was an Amazon product for this function. Noise in't much of an issue for me, but heat is. Noise abatement is a sweetener on this type of product. Thanks for your opinions and reponse to my inquiry, both are helpful to me.

I have a 72 Demon, that I am putting the finishing touches on. It was once a white, /6, factory A/C car. I want to be able to use the factory A/C controls on a reliable system to cool the car. I have changed both the body color and interior colors to Grabber Blue and black with B&W...

While you have the radiator out, try to flush the block. My /6 ran too hot until I removed a bunch of rust scale and sludge from the bottom of the block. If the block was flushed during a recent rebuild, ignore this suggestion.

Not a whole lot. I can't recall if I can move a dashpot by sucking on a hose or not. Why worry about about oxygen deprivation when the engine is a great vacuum source and needs to be tested anyway. The best way to test is to buy about 8 feet of appropriately sized hose. Run hose from...

IIRC, the distribution function is handled by a lever from 1973-76 models. The vacuum line from the engine goes through the firewall into the function lever switch. On the pushbutton controlled A/C, it was slangly called the harmonica. If everything else works well, suspect the hose from the...

190º X 2 The thermostat temp determines when coolant fully circulates (stat open). The car can run normally anywhere from 190º-210º F. The engine is considered to be overheating when an accurate temperature gauge reads 240º F and higher. These numbers assume that a properly working 16 psi...

LMAO X 2. "Lez do a flame test on dat thang fer leaks." IIRC, oxidizing ammonia produces an explosion (see West, Texas), and oxidizing R-12 produces phosgene (see Battle of Ypres, Belgium [WW I]).

Some of the newer engines run between 220º and 230º. The factory gauge on my Darts pegs at 250º. It's not uncommon for an auxiliary fan to run for quite a while after shut down, particularly on a cast iron engine. Most aux fans are set to come on around 210º. That means that the fan is...

The Evans product looks fabulous. If cost were no object, I'd use it in a heart beat. Right now, I use straight Prestone (green stuff) and distilled water. I add a can of water pump lube. Change it every 2 yrs. Cost of the last change was $37.08. The best price I could find on Evans was...

You're right. It is a low pressure switch. Earlier models did not have it. The RV2 is a good compressor, much better than what Ford and AMC ran at the time. Not quite as smooth as the GM axial compressor of the day, but a bit more durable. Though all of them worked adequately, they were...

Back in the day, some FE block Fords used expansion tanks that had a pressure relief cap (radiator cap) on them. IIRC, the tank held about 1½ qts. The tank was the highest point of the cooling system. This was before the days of coolant recovery systems and double sealed caps.

If you don't have an A/C license, you can't even get R12 here. Even then, it's in something like a 25 lb can. An HVAC supply house would be the best source. There's a low pressure switch on the A/C system that is supposed to shut down the compressor under low freon conditions. The...

If you fabricate an "adapter" that will let the shroud "reach through" the radiator support to seal up against radiator you should be OK. I've seen several first generation Monte Pythons with long shroud extensions. No problem with overheating even with A/C. IMO, extending the spacer on the...

Check out the FlowKooler # 1701 for water pumps. I don't know if this is a "high volume" pump or not. My thought is that flow is limited by the smallest passage that all of the coolant needs to flow through (usually the thermostat). I prefer the old RobertShaw brass thermostat for accuracy and...

There doesn't seem to be a standard location for non-factory a/c refrigerant tubes through the firewall. Since most used flexible tubing, the installers could go with what ever worked best for the shop and the tools available. Don't forget to drill holes in the floor for the knee-knocker drain...

The two vacuum lines at the cowl are for the climate system. One goes from the intake to the "harmonica" in the center of the dash (the lever or pushbuttons for Vent, A/C, Def) , the other comes from the harmonica to the heater control valve. You can either by-pass the heater control valve...

IMHO it's a sorry-*** design. Had problems with them back in the day. I had a piece of copper bent and flared(?) to replace bend in hose. It takes four clamps (two on each end of the bend) but unless you're running Draino in the cooling system, it solves the problem. FWIW: I got the idea...

X2 Cheaper in the long run. Get a little more than you thin you need all in one length. Trim to fit. Is better to have too much than to have to stretch to fit.

The dash air vent assembly is easily removed with a deep well socket. Removing the assembly leaves 2 large bolts sticking out of the underside of the dash and a gaping hole in the air box assembly. Even without the compressor, when selecting A/C unheated outside air will come blasting through...

Have you checked the routing on the fuel line. It seems that most V-8s back in the day had fuel lines that came close to exhaust manifolds and water pumps. Try to insulate line from direct exposure to heat source. I've modified 2" long, uninsulated, alligator clips to hold an aluminum tube...

1. Find a car "swamp cooler". These things were more common back in the mid-late 50s. The box is filled with ice and rolled up in a rear window so the intake was out in the air stream. 2. Make a Redneck Refrigeration portable unit. Items needed: plastic ice cooler large enough to hold...

It is the OSAC valve. Yep, it's part of the emissions control system. The OSAC valve has been used since the early 1970s to delay the distibutor's vacuum advance for about 15 seconds during acceleration. The OSAC valve is on the air cleaner (pre-1974 models had it on the firewall!) . One...

This is kind of strange. IIRC, the non-A/C cars under dash box had two doors, both operated by cables. On the A/C cars, only the temp lever connected to a cable that exposed the heater core to the air flow. The function lever worked a vacuum harmonica to open and close doors in the box. The...

Neat information here. Pishta, Is it a 50/50 mix of ATF to acetone? I'm big fan of KROIL, but I don't own stock in 'em. I'll try this out. All, Yes, you can get bolts at the hardware store. To avoid breakage, let me suggest using Grade 5 hardware. Make sure it is US or Canadian sourced...

The one you have looks good. There's a guy in Fort Worth that I've used for a long time that refurbishes these things for about $50.00, IIRC. It's called Mr. G's. However, you need to check with him to see if he has one on the shelf. Right now, he's without a vacuum metalizer and a painter...

In the past, when a thermostat has failed, it has failed in the closed position. Severely startled me the first time it happened. I thought I blown the engine. I've never had one fail "open". I've always preferred Robert Shaw Thermostats when I could get them. The company also makes HVAC...

Congrats. Seems like you've got a work A/C just in time for fall. LOL on various refrigerants. A by-product of burning R-12 is Phosgene, a nerve agent.

If you have a radiator cap with two seals (one on the spring, the other on the cap itself) by all means install a recovery bottle. Most of the caps I've seen at the big box part stores are for closed systems, so they will work. If you have only the cap seal, the system sucks in air. You'd...

That's pretty much it. Actually, the temp lever opens a door that mixes fresh air with air passing through the heater core. Without mixing, there is no way to regulate the temperature. The hot water valve shuts off flow to the heater core. Unfortunately, it does not shut off the return. The...