thinkin of dumpin the duster AC?

[barbee6043]

got a feather duster with AC, gonna kept it all there and original (even though its not workin!). Question: the 72 dister /6 car. i hate the AC stuff in my way, i'm not a purist anyway, guess i will take it off and keep (someone buys the car they may want to put it back), probably not worth squat if ya wanted to sell it anyway!?? the vacuum lines work the in dash heater controls? if you take out the under dash air box and replace it with non air, i'm thinkin if i remember right, the non air box will have the heater fittins in different place? and maybe the blower motor too? maybe just leave the underdash AC box, but can you ditch the AC vents off it? thanks for any comments. anyone wantin to infer as to my dumbassness, go ahead ,, i derserve it!!! LOL

 

[67Dart273]

The firewall is different between AC/ non A/C cars

 

[RedFish]

I know there are differences in the firewall, etc.. in pre 73 model.
Everything about the heater case and controls changed in 73 so they may have cured some of the differences.
Anyway to answer your question... The under dash air vent assembly is easily removed. Nothing but hardware involved. Remaining system works just as it did.

 

[2 Darts]

Anyway to answer your question... The under dash air vent assembly is easily removed. Nothing but hardware involved. Remaining system works just as it did.

The dash air vent assembly is easily removed with a deep well socket. Removing the assembly leaves 2 large bolts sticking out of the underside of the dash and a gaping hole in the air box assembly. Even without the compressor, when selecting A/C unheated outside air will come blasting through this hole aided by the fan. Max A/C will recirculate cabin air.

The default setting on the door in the air box assembly for A/C is closed. Find the vacuum line for the dashpot that opens the door and plug it. This will keep air from coming out through the hole left by removing the dash air vent and not compromise the rest of the control's functions.

 

[BillGrissom]

I would leave the AC box regardless. A lot of work to change, for minimal benefit and would make your car less valuable. If you don't like the monster RV2 compressor, consider replacing it w/ a small, efficient Sanden. There are brackets for the slant (have one). Even simpler, if you don't have power steering it looks like one could mount a "York-to-Sanden" adapter on that pad, similar to what member Syed in Malaysia did.

 

[74Dusted]

I know there are differences in the firewall, etc.. in pre 73 model.
Everything about the heater case and controls changed in 73 so they may have cured some of the differences.
Anyway to answer your question... The under dash air vent assembly is easily removed. Nothing but hardware involved. Remaining system works just as it did.

There are differences on the 73-76 firewalls too. A/C equipped 73+'s have the Heater Core Lines in a different spot, and obviously the Evaporator Lines poking out too. All of the mounting stud holes in the firewall are in different locations compared to a Non-A/C model. Also the Blower Motor is offset slightly compared to the Non-A/C 73+ models, and has a bigger hole in the firewall.

I can't remember how much bigger though, it's been a while since I did a side by side comparison and all of my 73+ cars are Factory A/C cars. My '74 was and still is a factory A/C car (only now I have a Sanden compressor on my 340, since the RV2 compressor wanted the same location that my 6-71 Blower is sitting in ), even though a previous owner boogered it up a bit by trying to convert it to non-a/c :wack: