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I have used a small blaster pot/gun with baking soda powder. It cleans the corrosion and gunk really well. Then use contact cleaner to clear last of the soda powder.

There is article by Ehrenberg in Mopar Action w pics this month explaining the mech advance and how to limit mech.

If you can see the screw hole from inside, hammer the edges of hole closed with punch. Then the same size screw will now cut the threads tight. Or use next larger screw.

I took a spare ballast and soldered a #12 jumper wire in place of resistor. That way it hooks up and looks stock.

To answer you original question, the spring wire clip is on inside. It has 2 little wires pointing up, and you need to expand them outward from center shaft. I did that recently and is real b**tch. I took 2 ink pen metal ink tubes to hook the pointy wires. When I put it back together I slipped...

I have one on my Duster, really like it & needed for headers. May consider for this Challenger.

The volt was checked w power to switch. Only checked key side of connector for ign1 &ign2 since it showed the 1.5 v drop coming from switch. If I get switch connection good then I'll check both sides of harness connector.

Yes, that was direct measurement. When I measured in start position, I disconnected starter solenoid wire. So there was no drop in battery volts. Thanks for replys.

I have 1972 Challenger 340 w 4spd that I am completing the rebuild. I have started engine and broken in cam. While doing the tuning it was hard to start. I found that the voltage to coil and resistor was lower than battery by 1.5 to 2 volts. Further testing at connector at steering column...

Well 34* is good starting point since 90% of sb engine dyno reports say 34* to 36* give best hp. Since I can't get car on road til spring, I need starting point that is safe to set advance.

That ref must be for Chrysler or Imperial. All I have is vacuum advance can w no electrical. It has 8.5 on mechanism. So if max is 34* on mech advance, then 8.5* vac would be 42.5* total. Should be good for cruise. With the 9.5 cr and 91 premium, should be safe from detonation. Thanks again.

It is original. Part number matches spec for 72 challenger 340. Thank you for all the info and charts. I will get spring assortment to find one that works.

No. Vacuum adv only

I have 72 Challenger 340 4spd with original std electronic distributor . It has FBO ecm box & coil. The engine has been rebuilt w hughes 220/224 hyd flat tappet and 9.5 cr. I broke in cam and found sweet spot for idle n timing. Idle 900 rpm and 16* btdc, 16 in-hg. I haven't got on road for full...

I stored the dual point and bought an old single point to put the pertronic in. Runs great.

I don't think timing will correct. Something is happening under load. Even on primaries only, should get up to at least 4500 rpm just slower. Are throttle blades open all way? Maybe run up to stall in gear and watch vacuum gauge, and make sure all cyl have spark under load. I'm bout out of ideas.

You say it feels like leaning out. Feels like doesn't equal actual lean. What do plugs look like compared to plug dianosis chart. What is total timing without vacuum advance hooked? Usually total timing is 34 to 36, and initial set by best vacuum reading at idle. If initial is high, too much...

Have done this on 74 Duster, 70 Cuda which work well. The conversion gives me great peace of mind for safer electrics. The Duster has a 40 amp blade fuseholder in wire from alt, since it is drag car and not OEM resto. I also replaced ammeter with a voltmeter in the dash cluster. The Cuda is...

Replace the orange box with a revNator box with built in Rev limiter. Sold by R/T garage. It is better ignition box with more HP potential than orange box plus there is no wiring changes. I have one on Duster that is drag car. RevNator has saved over speed several times. FBO also has...

No problem here. Too easy to bump that emoji when scrolling.

I set points on my dual point dist. After struggling to do it even on workbench, I said never again and put in the pertronic. Very happy with it.

I've got one car with fair original that was silvery color. I cleaned that up and painted with Rustoleum hammered silver color which matched pretty well. I robbed that for the resto car. Now I have to replace the robbed one. I'll check out the NAPA one. Thanks

Sorry to butt in, for a related question. Is there good source for a OEM looking starter relay. I had to destroy my old one to get wires off. Doesn't have to be nos but look like OEM.

I have used both older FBO box and new Rev n nator. FBO was before they had Rev limiter, but very reliable and great power and rpm stable. Went to rev box for the Rev limit before FBO became avail w Rev limit. Rev box is good on power can't tell diff. Limiter works well, saved over speed on...

Are you getting the version with built in rev limiter. I would recommend if you take it to the max anytime. I had an fbo box & coil in my 408, and it ran great.

I had similar problem with my 340 6pack and went thru all the tuning steps. Would stutter and hesitate when put in gear until got up to speed. Finally found that vacuum line to vacuum advance was in wrong port. Made huge difference. Check vacuum ports and hose routing.

You should be able to advance it 2 degrees. 34 total will be ok. I run that with my 408 on 91 octane.

How much amps are the cooling fans pulling. If they are pulling more than the alt can put out, then they would drain the battery.

I converted dual point to Pertronix with a single point type distr. I had a few problems starting it, and found that it started & ran good with a newer battery. Electronic Pertronix needs good 12+ volts supply. I tried it w ballast and from 12v side of ballast. Didn't seem to make that much...

Ran the FBO box with Accel distributor and worked very good, no problems. I changed to Rev-N-ator box to get rev limit. Performance was about same coouldn't tell diff. But the rev limit saved my engine when trans slipped.