Pertronix conversion question

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cudamark

cudamark

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I plan to convert my 1966 Barracuda 273 over to electronic ignition. I'd like to keep it as stock looking as possible, so, the Pertronix system appeals to me. In looking at the kit, they want you to hook their module direct to 12V and use a coil with a certain ohm resistance (preferably their coil). I have an NOS Mopar coil that has that same resistance. Will it work with the Pertronix okay? What I was thinking is to keep the ballast resistor and just hook the Pertronix red lead to the 12V side of the ballast, the other lead to the -side of the coil, and leave everything else alone. I'm also hoping to run a stock tach that has the remote tach control, so, it would also hook up to the -side of the coil. Anyone done this exact thing?
 
I took a spare ballast and soldered a #12 jumper wire in place of resistor. That way it hooks up and looks stock.
 
dibbons said:
I just installed it with stock ballast resistor and coil (not 12 volts to the coil), works fine for me.
Click to expand...

But, you did hook the power lead for the Pertronix to 12V though, correct? Are you using a stock tach setup?
 
No, still all stock wiring, stock setup. I was on a road trip during the installation, so I did not change anything over. Never got around to following the recommended installation since then. No factory tachometer.
 
3406pk said:
I took a spare ballast and soldered a #12 jumper wire in place of resistor. That way it hooks up and looks stock.
Click to expand...

I was going to do that if I had to use the Pertronix coil, but, I'd rather use a stock coil. They're supposed to use a ballast.
 
dibbons said:
No, still all stock wiring, stock setup. I was on a road trip during the installation, so I did not change anything over. Never got around to following the recommended installation since then. No factory tachometer.
Click to expand...
Where did you attach the two Pertronix wires?
 
The reluctor (that replaces the rotor) in the Petronix "kit" would not fit over the locating tab in my Autozone aftermarket distributor. I had to purchase the Petronix distributor (does not look factory). The Petronix distributor has a red lead and a black lead, both connected directly to the stock coil positive and negative terminals. Done.
 
In my application, I'm using the stock cast iron Prestolite distributor and the 1383 Pertronix kit. Even though I had to drill out some holes a bit oversize to get it to bolt down properly to the old dual point plate, it seems to fit pretty good. The kit comes with a push-on reluctor, but, still uses the stock rotor. The kit instructions say to use a 12V source for the red wire. After going through the ballast, the voltage on the stock system is no where near that. I figured I would just hook it up on the input side of the ballast and leave the rest. I'm just not sure that will work correctly with the stock coil or not.....plus I don't want to damage my factory tach or tach controller with improper voltage.
 
I ran a Pertronix Igniter II in my 66 Barracuda with a 273. Connected red to 12v side of ballast and black to negative side of cool. I'm running an aftermarket tech and had no problems.

About 4 years ago I wanted to take the possibility of the ballast going out and emailed Pertronix to confirm which coil to use in order to remove the ballast. I didn't remove it, just wired it together on the backside. Anyway, he's the reply from Pertronix.

Terry,
Use coil #45011 and remove the ballast resistor.
Carl


Your Pertronix Team,
 
You are better off with your factory points. At least when your car don't start the next time your away you can fix it yourself with a file and a match book. I never understood why car guys would want electronics like that just so you can't tell they are there . Is it a guess what is in there thing? What a waste of time and money. Your suppose to be a car guy. I am putting the factory dual point in my Demon . I never had any problems and never had to carry spare ballasts or control boxes.
 
I have dual points in a couple of my cars, and for the most part, they work fine. They are a bit more maintenance though. My experience with electronic ignition is that they are even more reliable, less maintenance, and better fuel economy, and the nice thing about the Pertronix setup is that I can carry the dual point parts to swap out in case the Pertronix unit fails. No need to carry extra Pertronix stuff. I thought I was old! You really carry a match book around with you?:lol: I haven't seen one of those in years.
 
66fyssh said:
I ran a Pertronix Igniter II in my 66 Barracuda with a 273. Connected red to 12v side of ballast and black to negative side of cool. I'm running an aftermarket tech and had no problems.

About 4 years ago I wanted to take the possibility of the ballast going out and emailed Pertronix to confirm which coil to use in order to remove the ballast. I didn't remove it, just wired it together on the backside. Anyway, he's the reply from Pertronix.

Terry,
Use coil #45011 and remove the ballast resistor.
Carl


Your Pertronix Team,
Click to expand...
It's a simple system and Pertronix is pretty good about helping.
 
Part of the job of the ballast resister is if the key is in the run position, and the points are closed the coil will be constantly charging and without a ballast resistor to limit the current it would fry the coil.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Part of the job of the ballast resister is if the key is in the run position, and the points are closed the coil will be constantly charging and without a ballast resistor to limit the current it would fry the coil.
Click to expand...
Could somebody just put a 2 post ballast in the wire that goes to the + side of the coil?
 
Dana67Dart said:
Part of the job of the ballast resister is if the key is in the run position, and the points are closed the coil will be constantly charging and without a ballast resistor to limit the current it would fry the coil.
Click to expand...

Actually the coil/ points will be damaged even with a resistor if the resistor doesn't fail. In other words never leave the key "in run" with engine stopped
 
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