remytherat
Well-Known Member
Stock mopar electronic ignition. Can I use a pertronix flame thrower ii coil (0.6ohm primary)? If so should I bypass the coil side of the ballast resistor?
Which coil?
- Thread starter remytherat
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Regardless of the coil used, you cannot bypass the ballast. If the ignition box sees a full 12V it will eventually burn out. I use a standard blue streak coil on mine and it works just fine. UC12-X is the part number.
remytherat
Well-Known Member
I was thinking of bypassing just to the coil, leaving the box connected through the other side of the 4 pin ballast
1969reddart
or is it Copper...
I use the Accel 8140 coil (1.4 ohm primary) with the stock ballast resistor - Factory electronic ignition.
Yeah. Do that then.
For the record...
If you originally had a 5 pin ECU you need the 4 post ballast.
If you originally had the 4 pin ECU you don't need a 4 pin ballast, as the ECU is internally regulated.
The 5th pin was the power to run some of the electronics.
The 4 pin did away with that.
Also if you changed out your 5 pin for a 4 pin ECU you don't need the 4 post ballast.
If you originally had a 5 pin ECU you need the 4 post ballast.
If you originally had the 4 pin ECU you don't need a 4 pin ballast, as the ECU is internally regulated.
The 5th pin was the power to run some of the electronics.
The 4 pin did away with that.
Also if you changed out your 5 pin for a 4 pin ECU you don't need the 4 post ballast.
If it was mine, and it originally had the 5 pin ballast, I'd get the 4 pin harness just to do away with that and convert to the 4 pin harness and two pin ballast. Those harnesses were sometimes a point of contention. I have a friend who found out the hard way.
You can plug a 4 pin into a 5 pin harness, the 5th pin just sits there and is not attached to anything.
You can not go the other way.
Right. I realize that. But the original 5 pin harnesses had a propensity for issues. I've seen several myself. I would just change it. Just my personal opinion. But we all know I'm mentally ill.
Aren't we all... We are into Mopars!
I did not realize the wiring issue as you described.
I thought you were saying that you had to replace the harness if you went to a 4 pin.
My mental illness is missing reading posts among others?
Oh no. I've seen several instances where "something" in those original 5 pin harnesses shorted and melted that harness. I don't know if it was a coincidence or not, but I've seen several in junkyards like that and I had a friend who had one fail......although he admitted he "mightta" done something to make it happen. lolAren't we all... We are into Mopars!
I did not realize the wiring issue as you described.
I thought you were saying that you had to replace the harness if you went to a 4 pin.
My mental illness is missing reading posts among others?
Using a 0.6 ohm coil, with or without the bal res, will create issues. Without the bal res, it will probably take out the power trans in/on the ECU from current overload.
The ECU is designed to use a 1.5 ohm coil with a 0.5 ohm BR.
You could use the 0.6 ohm coil & improve your ign system at the same time by eliminating the ECU & bal resistors & using a GM HEI module. Simple, easy, better, pics on the net.
The ECU is designed to use a 1.5 ohm coil with a 0.5 ohm BR.
You could use the 0.6 ohm coil & improve your ign system at the same time by eliminating the ECU & bal resistors & using a GM HEI module. Simple, easy, better, pics on the net.
You have to use a coil that has a 1.5 ohm .6 is for the pertronix 2 only and the .32 is Pet III and the gm set up only. Have to have the components matched properly to work well and stay working.
Just fyi
Just fyi
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Is the Accel coil #8140 compatible with the blue 7500 hi rev ignition box like this?
1.5 ohm coil around a .8-1 ohm ballast works well with them. Not sure of the Accel ohms on that. The higher the resistance the less RPM max usually.
Accel lists that coil as 1.4 ohm.
timnascar
Member
Wanting to replace my 20+ year old worn out Borg Warner E38 coil. I'm running the Mopar electronic ignition with the original ballast (1.4 ohms) and a OEM Black Box ECU (also have an orange ECU as a backup). I purchased a Standard UC12 Coil - but the engine will not start. (starts ok with the E38 coil). The Standard UC12 coil ohms out ok with Primary @1.4 ohms and Secondary around 8 ohms. The UC12 spec indicates to be used with an external resistor of 1.3 to 1.5 ohms. I was researching and came across this for the UC12: If your Mopar has a ballast resistor in its ignition system, you likely need a ballast coil, not a standard one like the UC12. So I'm confused....I'm going to order a Blue Streak Coil UC12-X and hope that will work. Or should I go with the Accel 8140?
remytherat
Well-Known Member
Sounds like the UC12 is designed to be used without a BR. Using it with a BR probably drops the current & voltage too much, so that it does not produce a spark.
Just get the correct Mopar replacement coil.
Just get the correct Mopar replacement coil.
I have been using the original FlameThrower coil (I?) with Mopar ignition for years, also with FBO ECU (which eliminates the ballast resistor) and with an old analog MSD 6AL system which also eliminates the ballast resistor. Works well with each of them.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
a 12 volt coil for use with no ballast is better suited to an application where the dwell can be longer like on a 4 cylinder
this is a 12 volt coil more like the some of the petronix and flame thrower coils
Lucas Sport Coil DLB198
was used with HEI and with later ECU controlled ignition on jags
I've use it with an HEI but i think, given that its a 12 volt coil that it would not work well with a ballast and mopar Module where it is expected to work on 8-10 volts.
but at 35 bucks if you want to look kinda standard on a stealth HEI install they work well enough
none of this stuff is made by the LUCAS of the 60s and 70s. its all now made under licence, so don't let the name worry you
Dave
this is a 12 volt coil more like the some of the petronix and flame thrower coils
Lucas Sport Coil DLB198
was used with HEI and with later ECU controlled ignition on jags
I've use it with an HEI but i think, given that its a 12 volt coil that it would not work well with a ballast and mopar Module where it is expected to work on 8-10 volts.
but at 35 bucks if you want to look kinda standard on a stealth HEI install they work well enough
none of this stuff is made by the LUCAS of the 60s and 70s. its all now made under licence, so don't let the name worry you
Dave
timnascar
Member
My bad....meant 8K on the secondary
IMO, Dump it all use the Pertronix III in your stock Mopar Dizzy, Bypass the ballast from behind to keep the stock appearance and run a solid state regulator for 69 and earlier!
The regulator is readily available and looks just like 69 and earlier units! JMO! This is what I run and the Pertronix III has an adjustable rev limiter as well! And you must use the Flame Thrower III Coil!
Do not look back and enjoy what the future gave you!
The regulator is readily available and looks just like 69 and earlier units! JMO! This is what I run and the Pertronix III has an adjustable rev limiter as well! And you must use the Flame Thrower III Coil!
Do not look back and enjoy what the future gave you!
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