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Agree on the sheet metal screw. Here is a better pic.

Not the best pics sorry but here it is on my Duster.

Thank you DFX!

Could someone post a pic of the cloth wire loom in the trunk (1971 Duster) that is on the driver's side from the back seat divider area to the tail light. I am trying to gauge the length of that cloth covering and location on the wiring. Thank you !

Interesting information on the alternator outputs. It begs the question for restoration. All the A bodies I see have yellow cap batteries but the lower amp units would have green caps. I wonder what is correct. Example my 71 Duster 340 has NO a/c and NO radio. Wouldn't it have green caps instead...

I would check with a test light at the plug and have someone hit the horn and see if you are getting power. If you are it's the horns. Putting voltage to the horns should have made them sound. Double check the ground too.

Interesting. I have always had the yellow caps on my battery topper and resto batteries but according to the chart and from what I saw on Hamtramck Registry, GREEN caps were standard for 1971 340. The higher amp alternator was optional and standard on AC cars. Mine has no radio so I assume it...

Thank you for the responses. The aftermarket stereo shows one yellow and one black ground. The harness with plug I bought that mates to the factory harness has two yellow and two grounds. I am going to ignore the one extra yellow and ground and see if it powers up.

I am about to put in an aftermarket double din in my 2006 Charger Daytona. I am confused in that the harness I bought to plug into the factory harness has two yellow (constant 12V) and two grounds. It looks like one yellow and black wire extra but they must go somewhere? Any help would be...

I am looking for a diagram or schematic of the bulkhead (engine compartment on firewall) for a 1971 Plymouth Duster. Thank you.

It's probably been asked before but I couldn't find it. How do you test the oil pressure sending unit on the car? It's for 1971 Ralley Dash with factory oil pressure gauge.

Thank you all, I should have looked closer, looks like he labeled it in his post but my eyes are getting OLD! LOL

Sorry to sound naïve but what is this a picture of?

Thanks for responding T/A, I have tested the bulb and even switched it out. I think it's a wiring issue, I had replaced the circuit board as well and problem persists.

I have the A01 light package and the fender mount signals work, exterior all work but the right side (passenger) side indicator doesn't flash on the dash either in turn signal or 4 way flasher mode. I have a new bulb, and the part the bulb goes in is new. I have twisted it in case the circuit...

Yep! When I restored my ralley dash and converted to the transistor IVR all worked great on the bench and on the test run after it was all installed. Then the next time I went for a drive no gauges at all. I ended up replacing all of those speed nuts with regular nuts and washers and bingo, all...

I have a battery topper and was thinking of adding those decals. Did the original batteries have colored decals like that on them?

That is a capacitor and should hook up like this.

This will give you info on the IVR. RTE Gauge Faq - rte I would use the multimeter and start checking the gauges and wires but it's unusual for all of the gauges not to work unless it's an issue by the pins or a bad ground somewhere.

It sounds like the AMP gauge is working then. Usually if you use the turn signals it should fluctuate. If you take the wires off one of the gauges and use a 9V battery and two leads it should move the needle. Have someone check the gauge while doing this and don't leave it on long or your risk...

It sounds like your IVR may be bad which is located inside the fuel gauge on a ralley dash. It keeps the volts at 5 to keep from frying the gauges. Does the AMP gauge work? That is hard wired and doesn't come off of the wires with the round "pin" connector.

Thank you, that answers it! I have everything on the A01 package but apparently not the headlight time delay. I thought maybe there was a relay or something not working.

1971 Duster with the A01 light package states it includes, fender turn signals, trunk light, glove box and ash tray lamp, map light and ignition timer lamp. My question is I have seen people mention a headlight timer that keeps the headlights on for a few seconds after the ignition is turned...

Sorry I should have said, 1971. The turn signal switch connector, is that the white plug from under the column?

My right turn signal indicator will not work. All my signal lights including fender tops and four ways work and that right signal indicator in the dash won't light. I have replaced the circuit board and bulb and the part the bulb sits in. It didn't work before on the old circuit board either...

If you cannot fix them and want them restored, I had mine done by the horn works, highly recommend them.

As the title states, Does anyone restore horns? and has anyone bought the "Spartan" Reproduction horns? Thank You!:thankyou:

I have everything on my AO1 light package working except the ash tray light.(71 Duster) I replaced the bulb and still no go. Since it has never worked, I am confused. Does the ignition need to be on for the ashtray lamp to work? Is there a switch that operates the lamp when you open and close...

Have to no. Personally if they were out of the car I would check the pins, re-solder if needed, clean the circuits and update the Voltage Limiter to transistor. Just a good piece of insurance for down the road.

The broken wire is probably to a pigtail that should have an identical plug for two horns. One High, One Low.