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When the transmission was mated to the motor I did have to slide the converter forward to contact the flex plate. I thought it was engaged. Read the instructions, did the 3 clicks in and so on. Real bummer.

Ok. Transmission is getting removed. Are the lugs being sheared something that I can check / repair myself?

Wondering if there is a way to re engage the tc without removing the transmission. Lugs on inner gear gone? Not sure about those. If it must go back to the trans shop as result of my own hand so be it. Real bummer. Any chance of there not being any damage? Motor has break in time and about...

This is what I've heard from other sources. Is there a remedy that does not include removing the transmission?

Here it is. I have a 727 rblt by local shop using kevlar bands, rev man valve body. All transmission lines are dry. I took off the forward fluid line and started the car in neutral. No fluid comes out in any gear when running. I have a new Hughes 4000 stall. Car is on stands and wont turn...

It only goes on one way due to the flat area used to locate it on the selector dowel. Instructions show it like this as well. I will call the hurst help line a little bit later and post their response.

Ok. I was just reading on sprag vulnerability in 1st gear. I assume once all set up I can hammer itvout of the hole and shift to 2nd alright. Thats why I bought it ey. Burn outs in 1st are bad...got. Are any first gear burn out safe?

I have a fresh 727/360/4k stall installed in the 73 dart/scamp. Trans has reverse manual valve body. I have no prev experience with these. 1. Do I need to hook up the kick down lever on the side of transmission? All this hardware is missing from prev owner. 2. Will the transmission shift on...

Running fresh rebuilt 727 with a hurst quarter stick shifter on my 73 scamp. Having trouble with the hurst provided shift lever. It hits the side of the transmission preventing park to correctly engage. Should I remove material from the new shift lever with my grinder to clearance it...

Thanks to you as well Mike.

Thanks for the lead. I will order them. I've gone this far w the arp stuff why stop now.

Ok. So I found t.q. bolts at pep boys 7/16-20 but they are too long. Using my caliper the bolt holes in the converter are very shallow. I don't want to wreck my new converter using too long of bolts. The block clearance sounds big. Dont want that. I will check out summit or jeggs. The...

What bolts can I successfully use for torque converter to flex plate? I have arp bolts in motor and flex plate to crank. I have b&m flex plate to hughes converter. Bolts needed are 7/16-20. HP I'm guessing will be in neighborhood of 400+hp & maybe a click over 500 with a little juice...

All great responses....even the correct spelling of dexron one. Lol. Type F is what its getting. Thank you fabo members!

Great. Need just enough for t converter to bolt it up for now. Good price at wally world on the type f. Thanks again!

Just need to know how much to buy. Im thinking like 2 gallons or so. Probably need a little more for the deeper pan. Thanks again.

Thanks Tony. If it's good enough for you its good enough for me.

Sounds affordable. I really dont want to spend 150.00 on lucas synthetic or other. Is the type F better than the dextron? Seems type F was for older stuff. Guess my stuff is older Type F....really?

What type of fluid to run with my 727? Fresh rebuild on the 727. Converter is a Hughes 4k. The converter instructions mention using a good quality type F, but I'm not sure thats alright for the trans. Trans dipstick says to use dextron which seems correct to me. What are you running with...