Search results for query: *

67Dart273, just wanted to thank you for taking the time to go over everything with me. I just want you to know I think your electrical skills on these cars is top notch! I'm mediocre at best. What it did do though, It made me go back and review everything I did and study the schematics. I...

thanks, once I posted I realized that I got more problems than I thought. I also realized that I don't need the indicator lights for the signals to work. One thing I didn't mention was that I put in a IDIDIT steering column also. sorry for the confusion. I don't have 12v on the power wire...

does anyone have a diagram or can tell me what i need to do to bypass my cluster wiring for the turn signals? i know blue and light green are for the left and right signal but that's about it. I have looked at the schematics but its just confusing me more without the the cluster wiring diagram...

Thank you so much charger426 for taking the time to search and help me out. It will be a while before I attempt to redo my cluster but this definitely helps a bunch.

thanks for the info, I guess I need to just look at the wiring diagrams and try to figure it out. Is it just the turn signal lights that go through the cluster or do others also? Thanks again sir!

Wow, that is super nice, I never thought about putting a digital display in place of the old stuff. Might have to look in to this. Thanks so much for sharing.

I am in the process of redoing my instrument cluster to newer non oem gauges and do not know how to keep the turn signals and anything else that runs through these circuits working, does anyone know how to do this? I am removing the panel and starting with a piece of sheet metal like another...

Considering there should not be a gear on it at the bottom for mopars I don't see how it could be a chevy distributor. Are you sure they didn't swap out the internals into a chevy housing?

Why not just take the alternator out of the circuit and test the output? If It is putting out 15+ volts then you know where your problem is. I am just asking why not? Does the alternator need the circuit to produce an output? Either way, good luck. I know electrical gremlins can get to you.

If your alternator is truly outputing 15+ volts it is overcharging. Should be in the 13.5 range.

I just saw a post the other day with some one having trouble with a MSD unit. One of the comments was that MSD does not recommend solid core wires. May be an issue or not. Just thought I'd put it out there for you.

I used this one on mine. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-3653/media/images I like that it is adjustable. The one you listed is non-adjustable. Just something to think about.

Don't feel too bad. Yesterday I went to my local Lowes hardware to get a new staple gun that also takes brad nails. I laughed when I saw the arrow on top of the gun that said exit here:) Of course the first 9/16 brad that came out went in just under my pointing finger:) I was holding it...

This site has lots of diagrams and info related to mopar wiring http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18 http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24 hope it helps you out.

This should help. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=28

Did you check the voltage with the jumper cables hooked up and yours with the key in the off position? If your still getting the 28volts at your end then there is definately something wrong with your wiring integrity.

I would double check your grounds are solid. You may have fried the battery and it is no longer taking a charge. Your going to have to check the voltage without the jumper cables to see what is going on. My only guess is that somehow with the jumper cables on it is acting like a series circuit...

Have you pulled the plugs and look at them? You may be running lean on the fuel.

I'm with abody, I would start a good visual inspection of all wiring and make sure you have a GOOD ground to the chassis. I have seen so many ground issues. It looks like the voltage is not being regulated properly if the gauges are good. Output from the alternator or the regulator. Good luck...

We need more info.....Are you using the timed or ported vacuum port on the carb? Did you plug the vacuum advance ports on the manifold and dizzy when your checking the advance? Do you know how much vacuum your pulling? Make sure the orange box is grounded well and all wiring is connected correctly.

hyped junk or not the silverstars are better than the oem.

Sylvania silverstar series are a nice upgrade and plug into factory harness. I would say they are 20 to 25% brighter and whiter than stock.

I think your ignition is fine. You really want to concentrate on the distributor itself. A stock electronic distributor usually puts too much advance if it has the vacuum advance option. There are hundreds of posts here about dialing in the advance, how to limit the amount of advance, and how to...

Check around the linkage to the tranny too. There may be something shorting to the linkage when you put it in drive. I would almost bet it is mechanical interference somewhere by the symptoms described. Good luck finding the short. You also said it happens in nuetral. What about in park?

Pin 5 is not always used. Not sure when it is. Here is a link to the conversion to points with diagrams. Good luck finding the issue. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf

Another good upgrade is getting rid of the amp gauge and going to a volt type gauge. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Why not one of these? no inverter needed. http://www.autobarn.net/portable-hair-dryer.html

I would redo the connections for peace of mind. Once it's done then you know it's right. Good luck finding that gremlin.

you could always pull one of the plugs and ground the casing. Crank the engine and you should see the spark jump across the electrode. (make sure you use insulated tools if you have to physically hold the plug to ground it)If no spark I would be checking the pickup in the distributor.