Search results for query: *

Not 100% sure on your setup but on mine the instructions had me center the caliper on the rotor with shims that were provided in the kit. Sounds like that may be your issue.

You guys are AWSOME:wav: Especially 67Dart273!!! I swapped the calipers and just gravity bled about 3 ounces of fluid off each bleeder and I got friggen awesome brakes!! I can't believe it was something that simple:banghead: Many thanks to all that replied and got me going in the right direction.

thanks for the help. I guess I have more work to do. I'll start with the swap and go from there. Thanks again. I will follow up with the progress if any:)

No it's 4 disc. I wasn't quite sure what you meant by bleeders up on the rear and I think I need to swap the calipers side to side. the bleeder is actually lower and behind the line that comes in.

Yes the bleeders are up on the rear disc. The front wildwood have 4 bleeders two on top and two at the bottom, one for each piston in the caliper I believe. Thanks for the advice on the vacuum bleeding. I have always used the old school method of bleeding with the pedal. I wanted to try the...

I used a vacuum power bleeder. It comes with a bottle that sits in the master cylinder to keep it full. Starting at the farthest wheel I hooked up the vacuum bleeder to the wheel cylinder bleeder created the vacuum and cracked the bleeder to bleed each one. Every time I did this I left the pedal...

I believe the master cylinder from doctor diff has no built in proportioning but not 100% sure. The wildwood is the only one in the system. No power assist, the weird part is that if I don't let off the pedal completely after pumping them up the pressure stays but if I release it the last inch...

I've been trying to get a good pedal on my brakes for about two weeks now. I've swapped three master cylinders, first one was a remanufactured unit from autozone. Second one was a 15/16 bore from doctor diff and the last one is the 1 1/8 from doctor diff. All three have the same symptoms which...

yes mine is as pictured on the right. I have the same bend also. Thanks for posting both. Did not know they had different pedal configs.

Thank you!

Working on a 63 dart with manual 4 wheel disc brakes. I think I may have put the rod on the wrong side of the brake pedal. Hard to see if it is lined up straight or not. I am having a hard time bleeding the brakes. Right now it is on the side closest to the drivers door and I think that may be...

The summit kit is the one I got. Like I said, I haven't had it on the street yet. I am using an adjustable proportioning valve from wilwood. It was definately a learning experience for me. Struggled for two days with binding and such. I missed the step where it tells you to shim the caliper to...

What is the link for the summit kit? I have a summit kit on my dart. Haven't had it out yet though. Install was not too bad once I realized the caliper has to be shimmed and centered on the disc:)

I don't see any dust shields?

Well, since no one gave me any feedback I was the guinea pig for this swap. I have to say the instructions were not very good in comparison to the wilwood swap I did in the front. I still have not bled or tested them since the engine is out but, everything looks correct and functions as it...

Just trying to get a review on this Brake kit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BK1329-99901/?rtype=10 I am probably going to get it but wanted to know if the added expense of the cross drilled rotors are needed. They have the same kit for less tha 400$ on sale right now. It is going on...

I have the wilwood set up on my 63 dart and it is a very nice setup but not cheap. The most important part of the whole swap is making sure you have the correct master cylinder for the application. Not sure about your setup but mine had the single Reservoir with no proportining valve to control...

I did just what your asking on mine. I made the template, marked the drums and used a good bit with just a hand drill and they work perfectly. I'm sure with the drill press your results will be the same. Drums are not hardened. Just make sure your bit does not walk and you will be fine.

The spacing from front to back pad has to be centered on the rotor or they will apply pressure unevenly which will quickly warp the rotor when it is warmed up. Shims will fix this.

Looks like a nice deal as long as you have the correct upper control arms and lower ball joints. oops what larry said too:)

Are you sure it's not a tranny issue? Could the valve body be sucking dry under hard braking and then refilling after a few seconds of sitting still? Just trying to offer suggestions. When you had it jacked up did you engage the brakes hard and try spinning the wheels immediately after to see if...

I'm not sure if your asking if the wilwood kits add offset. I have the wilwood setup for early a with 9" drums and it did add width. I'm not sure how much but I know it is in the install instructions. If you want I could look it up. Here is the quote right off of Wilwoods page for 63-74 Darts. I...

I'm using the Wilwood conversion for a 63 dart and I have been really happy with the results. I am going to use the 8 3/4" rear conversion also. I would suggest the drilled rotors over the stock just for the extra cooling capabilities. No problems in two years. Just my opinion though. I really...

Unreformed, Thanks for posting your install, Lot's of guys here will appreciate the details. I for one am thinking about making this swap too.

I bought a front disc kit from wilwood for my 63 dart, the kit works with all of the stock components and also has 5x4 1/2 bolt pattern on the hub. I have been running it for a little over a year now with no issues. It is a little pricey though. Also running 15" wheels. If I did it again I would...