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There should be a vent tube right behind your filler tube. 1/4 metal line with rubber pieces, on the top end near the cap it fits over a small nipple. The vent line and filler tube both fit thru the same floor grommet under the wood floor.

Has it backfired thru the carb at any point? Power valve could be blown. Float levels to high/low. Return springs not tight enough/linkage binding.

Well in this great p.o.s. state o' mine the signs are posted at the local airport stating that it is. And it has been for some time, as the fuel that I used to get back in the late 80's and early 90's was as stated directly on the pump. And the fuel that we get here during the winter months is...

Part of this is due to avgas being oxygenated.

If it's the type that I'm thinking it is they do have rebuild kits. But all the ones that I've had that stopped working I was able to fix easily. Usually the vanes get rusted in place or gummed up. Just give each port a squirt of penetrating oil, wait a few minutes then pull off the bottom...

It might just be a federal emissions air cleaner instead of a California compliant one.

Offhand I don't know what it's off of. But I tell you what with that dust and such it can't be worth more than $5. So I'll give ya $10 as I'm feeling really generous. But if it's sentimental that's ok though. sorry I'm no help

Most local carb shops charge around $65 ish. And you can find online carb serv's for about the same price.

what's wrong with the q-jet? Some of them flow around 830+ cfm in stock form depending upon use. I'd just throw a rebuild kit into it unless the throttle shafts are gone.

It's always better to put on the rubber before going into the hole. That is a life lesson. It holds true to alot of things.

Put the O-ring on the tube then lube the o-ring/tube end and stick it slowly. Don't forget to keep an eye on the ring so it doesn't catch on the edge of the hole.

check the surface of the bowl where the gasket is supposed to seat. There is usually some seam flash that will hold the gasket back from sealing.

They are not the same. And yes it's a pain in the patoot!! The wagon has the filler lower in the quarter panel, and this is why it sloshes real bad. My wagon has been changed considerably, and it doesn't do this anymore. O and that lovely sound of fuel sloshing forever if it's not completely...

The track and NHRA want's the bottom of the exposed cell to be protected from debris. I'm not sure what thickness they require but I know I went on the heavy side for mine due to being street driven.

Mine is very well protected underneath and around. This is before I skinned it in 16gauge.

Not in my trunk as it's a wagon.

Double gaskets and a tube of sillycone.

I'm always stunned by what's made for roundy round. But it's expected. Here's what you do. Step 1. read rule book 2. figure out how they promote all cheb parts 3. figure out how to play off your mopar as a cheb 4. get blind drunk and figure out what odd parts aren't made yet so...

Not to many people want to run a iron w2 on the street either

Here's a new one for $229 from this place http://www.campbellenterprises.com/aengineparts.htm

Mine uses the factory fill hole, and there is a #4 vent line connected to the factory vent nipple this is in my wagon

This could happen even with a normal tank if the vapors leak out of the grommet, or a pinhole in the filler neck tube. Anything is possible.

It's not aluminum or a 20 gallon, only a 16gallon.

Make sure you locate the tank vent in a place very close to where it was before. And make sure the actual cap has a tight seal. I went thru some extremes to keep my outside filler with my fuel cell.

So it looks like I have a BEEDART now huh. Hmm some new stickers are needed.

Look at this crap. I had my fuel line off at my regulator for about a week while working on the other end. It was wrapped up in a rag. But apparently it just made it a nicer home. I didn't notice this stuff until I had already bought a new fuel pump and almost went nut's with the new one...

Well you can always try and pull off the fuel line from the pickup and attach a hose to it and siphon from there. There is probably a siphon blocker in the filler neck.

I run an elec pump. I run it off of a relay, through a ferd fuel pump safety impact/rollover switch. Also running to this relay is a very very small switch hidden in reach of the driver seat to shut off said pump, for leaving the car parked. This way it also doubles as a theft deterrent...

I just used their universal cable system, along with a summit throttle bracket plate. That way I didn't need to worry about making the bracket higher.

When they changed the formula here in Kali about 10 years ago. They did this for winter grade and summer grade fuels. They oxygenate the fuel for winter to help cars run more efficient in winter.<--Load of crap in my opinion. There were bulletins sent out to us drivers from AAA explaining the...