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I cut a couple barbs off the brass fitting that came with the intake to get the bypass hose to fit. Also had to trim the hose.

Based on what you're telling us, it really sounds like the temp sending unit. Some of the cheap part store ones are way off. I've bought new ones and had them not read right. I know there's a way to check it by reading resistance through it, but I don't know the exact procedure off the top of...

What kind of gages do you have? When I got my autometer gages, I plugged the temp gage into the sending unit I had at the time, and it showed about 225 or so also. When I put the sending unit that came with the gage, it went to normal. Might try changing the sending unit if you haven't

Louis, they have those at O'Rielly's, Autozone, and Pep Boys. Guess it's too late now, you already ordered it. Hell, you probably have it by now, just saw the date you posted.

I just looked at the ebay link. That's a cheap price, but doesn't say how much air they pull.

I was looking at fans, and this one was recommended by several people. It pulls way more air than most of those at Summit, and costs less. Amazon.com: Dorman 620-101 Radiator Fan Assembly: Automotive Here's the thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=163965

That's right where i should be normally.

on my way to vatozone for a hoe nipple now!

I'm running a 6 blade pump in my 500+ HP small block. I had some issues with it getting hot at first, but after spacing the fan closer to the radiator and adding a shroud, I've had no problems, in fact, the temp hasn't gone higher than 1/4 up on the stock gauge.

The last couple tstats I've got had a hole with a little rivet looking thing in it. I cut that thing out so it had just the hole. The hole was more like 1/8" though, IIRC.

ARP has a thread sealer for that. I'm sure there are other brands. RTV would probably work.

I used gaskasinch when I first put mine together, then, as luck would have it, had to take it off again. I used RTV the second time, getting a gasket off that has gaskasinch is a pain.

I put in a 26X19 Afco Aluminum Radiator and my temp dropped to where it barely gets 1/4 of the way up the gage. My old radiator was rotted out, so it was an easy diagnosis on mine.

If it's the same as the one in a '74 duster, you can have the one I just took out for free, just come get it.

I'm going to have to save for the Dyno. I just ordered a Dana, and will need a driveshaft, yoke, springs, etc. so that is setting me back some, but I see no reason to rush getting the engine in the car when the drivetrain wouldn't be able to put the power to the ground. I'll probably be ready...

Well, I got it to fit. Had to cut 1/4" off the threaded end of the nipple and 1/2" off the nipple end and do some trimming to the hose, but I got it to fit. Not the "perfect" fit that I wanted, but it will work, and most won't notice.

I got them from Mad Dart (Louis). I think he said he got them from Hughes. Not sure what brand they are. I've seen them on ebay before.

Mine overheated because there were about 50 pinholes in the radiator. With the new radiator, I think it runs too cool (with the 318 that's currently in it).

The bypass allows some circulation when the thermostat is closed, so actually reduces pressure. Also, if the thermostat fails closed, you still get at least some flow.

I'm talking about trimming some off the manifold nipple. MAD DART's manifold nipple is about half as long as mine, plus sits back about 1'2 further, so if I trim some off that nipple, or just get a shorter one, it should work

That's some serious misalignment to cause you to throw a hose:toothy10:

Wouldn't fit by just trimming the hose, but probably would if I cut about 3/4" to an inch off that nipple. It's about 2" long.

It does look like it's in the same place, but set back about 1/2" and with a shorter nipple. It might work with a shorter nipple, but it definitely does not with this long one. I think they even have the shorter nipples like yours at the Kragen down the street. I'll give it a shot. Thanks...

Just got a thought. Could I run a hose from the heater hose outlet on the water pump to the bypass inlet on the intake and cap off the bypass? It would still be getting that bypass coolant, just not as much. All I need is a 3/4" NPT fitting with a 5/8 "nipple, which I have found, and a piece...

Haven't had a chance to go in yet. Probably won't until Saturday.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Anyone happen to have a part number?

I'm trying to find a bypass hose, but can't find one that fits. I've tried the regular one and looked for something that would fit, but haven't found anything. It's an LA 360 block with Magnum heads and Airgap intake (Magnum). Normally, the bypass hose connects to the intake right by the...

The little stem looking thing that houses the spring should be on the bottom. Have you replaced the cap? If it doesn't seal all the way, the system wont pressurize and circulate properly. If that's good, try flushing it.

The small one is 5/8" and the big one is 1". The threads for the small one is either 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT. Oops, just realized how old this thread is.

As the coolant in the radiator and engine heats up, it expands, so needs someplace to go, so it goes into the overflow bottle. As it cools, it shrinks back to its original volume. Since the tube going into the overflow tank goes to the bottom of the tank, it siphons the fluid back into the...