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I get all my engine bay harnesses from evans wiring, that way I can tell them I want the better gauge wiring for the alternator or electronic ignition on my non electronic ign cars plus many other modification like A/C and headlight heavier gauge to I can pop on relays. no brainer for me and...

I had a company make some up for me for my conversion, I had to make it first and send it out for them to duplicate. it takes 2 splice's onto the turn signal(brown and green) light and the rest plugs in. (you do have to flex the inner sheet metal out 1/16" to clear the sockets though)

the Trunk side of the tail lights on a 66 is a single contact like a backup light. I hated that only the outers would act as a stop/tail/turn and the inners were tails only. that's why I made the harness (having 6 sets made by a business that specailize in harness making was 10.00 more than me...

I'm (it's on my todo list, but WAYYYYyyyyyy down there. ) going to cast a resin replacement part and have it mirrored. it'll be treated exactly as a painted part on the car) why they had to make 4 different shapes instead of mirroring the left pair to the right side never fails to amaze me. All...

My wife's dart(yah still gotta finish up mine ,but I'm collecting parts for her )originally triple black 66 convertible has the 2 inner tails a little bit brighter than normal tails but almost as bright as the stop/turn and it did look funny. I fixed mine so that I would have all 4 as...

in my project list I have a 66 cluster setup I want to 3d print(then cast it from plastic resin so it's strong.) but it's wayyyyyy down on my list. here is my list so far. 1. kick panels with speakers in em (check) 2. side panel top trim for the convertibles (almost check, darn plastic was too...

Vacuum pot to remove air (I use that one to do my Resin casting and the odd cleaning procedure) like this but not this one a 5 gallon one https://www.amazon.com/Brand-Gallon-Vacuum-Chamber-Stage/dp/B01L0KKH0G and the pressure pot to make bubble free castings and infuse wires and cables with...

My sister in-law works for an insurance firm and happens to tell me different. It AIN'T the wiring that causes the cars to get totaled, it's the hidden areas that never gets cleaned and the water/ corrosion get into everywhere ,seats and carpet trap water and mold, electronics get ruined and all...

I just cleaned mine with that cleaner (purple power)and after that it goes into a vacuum chamber to remove all the air with an A/C pump for 2 hours of vacuum. open and add Alcohol then Vacuum again then into pressure pot to insert Alcohol into wires to make sure they are clean. Air dry and done...

I used purple power to clean the gunk off of mine and see if they were supple enough to re-use. plus I did re cover using harness tape to keep things looking new"ish" plus it removed most of the oxidation which surprised me.

I remember a post on here with the fix,but could not find it .. here is what I remember about it.. and a post by Chris North wrote: Until 1968, the parking lights on US cars normally went off when the headlights were turned on. The early Plymouth Barracuda put a jumper between the tail light...

I use non-adhesive in all the front lighting/engine bay area and interior component areas. I use split loom or braided in add on's to lighting or accessories in the trunk area only Or if I'm going to be working on it or plan a future repair or upgrade (again trunk areas only for this.) like my 4...

gotta ask if it's a chipped key or not. that makes a difference. my 95 dakota didn't need a chip and I just installed a cheapy Ebay autostart unit on it. that one is still running last I knew. sold it on 2005 to my neice. this on is going in my 66 but will work on my 2007 caliber too. oops...

didn't want to clutter up his thread , even though I really did with the opinions I posted :BangHead: here is mine, I have done some updates such as voltage limiting and front turn signals conversion to LED but have not finished up the bezel changes I'd like to do. 66 dart LED prototype working...

Making your own is a labor of love and you won't get rich selling them. money wise they ARE cheaper to build than just buying an off the shelf set time wise ehhh not so much. my total time in designing and making a set would have cost me over 600.00 in time and materials if I had someone else...

yes to both of those questions according to SlantSsixdan. I did a Led conversion on my 66 and with his help with numbers and directions was able to get the correct lumen reading in all the ranges he said I'd need. (THANKS Again Dan) I would "assume" that with enough playing around that the...

the fronts are easy as pie, but stuffing the motors in the rear of the 66 convertible was a plain nightmare. I had to cut a hole in the inner sheet metal and mount the motors facing the outside of the car in order to get them to fit and work. yes a door panel will cover the hole but it was a bit...

that should be an easy upgrade. If you have a couple of extra window regulators and about 30 minutes at a salvage yard you can usually score a couple good little motors for you electric windows and adapt the spare regulators to motorized, here was mine\ 1st take old regulator out and gut the...

I got a 1985 dodge ("diplomat I think) electric trunk piece and just bolted it on the same location as my 66 was. ran a wire to the power with a switch and was done! also used original power window motors and door lock poppers from a dodge van. next I'll get the cheapy door lock/electric window...

that picture does not show the location bump, so it could be or it might not be the correct one. try Evans wiring. I got mine for my 73 duster and the 70 challenger(the one the alternator wire connects through) plus all 3 different ones for my 66 dart there. The locator pin is a the critical...

typical 66 dart tiny grounds. you sure can't get enough of them for sure. the red circles are the only ground point on that instrument cluster there are supposed to be 4 of them(yep your screw heads are "IT" and that isn't much to rely on for a 40+ year old car). especially on a "painted a...

You can get a replacement board for your cluster. here is the link, but it shows that he's away for a bit, today to be exact. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360260745924?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I had a similar problem on my 66 because I didn't watch how I put the insert back into position (had it reversed) into the socket. no matter what I did they always had the same filament lighting whether it was tails,stop or turn. drove me crazy until I remembered I had pulled them out to clean...

here is the BWD 14 part install on a 66 dart bucket. it is not a "plug it in and go fit" but it does require 1 "little" alteration to fit (pretty darn tight too!) Bdw part 14 from advance auto the "issue" is a locator tab in the 66's bucket. I will "***-u-me" that the 65's have...

the 65 dart has a similar type of setup as my 66, but one of the 65's has a backup light in the bucket. for stop/turn and tail light you only need a 2 wire unit. 1 wire for tail light only function and the second wire for stop/turn function (grounded by the socket going into the bucket/bolted...

Not to bad looking. I did notice though that you don't have a voltage regulator on there. I would look into putting it right on the board (might mean making a few) to limit voltage to 12v It might cause you some problems down the line if you don't limit you tails and turns to 12v due to the...

X2 on this and it cleans up the brass or copper connections up pretty good to. they still needs a little extra Tlc using contact cleaner but no sanding or scraping is involved.

Thanks ... yeah I have done mine ala "junkyard" style all you really need is the motor to adapt to your "extra" regulators. I had a couple of extra's floating around from junk doors. I went to the junk.....Salvage yard and got a couple of motors off of mid 90's vans and trucks early Dakotas...

it (usually) means that one of your lights on the left side of the car is either bad or not getting a good ground. check the socket and ,,,ummm using a test light sort of poke it into the edge of the front parking light or socket flange to ground it to the housing. if it works then , it is a...

Jim I don't think it is grounded hmmm there is a rubber sleeve that goes in the bracket that holds the column and the dash up. The only place I do think it is grounded is the steering shaft to the gearbox for sure. it looks like either this is the ground or there is a ground wire in the...