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outers are sill plates for the early Gen cars the inners are carpet hold down trim or inner scuff plate molding. I could care less what others call them since they aren't correct for the early applications later applications incorporated the inner hold down and the outer sill plate into one...

they aren't sill plates for sure , they are called carpet hold down molding or trim. They hide the wires and hold the carpeting in place. While these are called Sill plates, Scuff plate or threshold plates. I make replacement sill plates (custom or the boring stock shaped ones) and may be...

I may CHEAT big time and make them a tiny bit bigger and then Glue/ add in some 0.030 internal sidewall stiffeners I just can't stand it being that thin. I'd at least like to make my part a bit better than originals even if they are not as crisp I want them to last.

Not as crisp as I'd like and a little too thin on the sides but Closer and closer do I creep!:elmer:Now I have to learn how to cut straight ,,,hmmm that's going to be harder then making the darned part!

thanks I went for the heavier types for my RV 19.48 per 2 strips but much better than 60 (I have 2 walmart 28" I can strip for my 13" dart one still got me a BOGO last year at Napa)

We're the strips on Amazon and do you have a link. My RV needs some new rubber and 50 to 60 bucks per blade is ridiculous

I buy the heavy duty 28" blades and pull the rubber from one of those. take the old stainless out of the old blade and insert the new rubber into it, then reinstall onto the arm. 1/3rd the price of classic industries and you can get them local, I've been doing that since they quit making the...

Bwahahahha A success sort of . It's thinner than I'd like on the sides, but it didn't blow out or crush the mold this time. I'll be changing a few things here and there and go up to .125 ABS to make it easier to pull off and help thicken the sides a tiny bit. Now all I have to do is figure out...

Once I get this pain in the behind 64 one formed and working, when I go to the 65-6 ones I may open up that taper and square thing up. but I'll have to fit it to a car after that. THANKS for the response it really helps (both picture and drawing!)

just tried to do a quicky formed part. ehhh. FAIL but I think I can get it to work with a bit of help. different angle on the mounting and raising it to help webbing should be a 50% improvement and then I'll work on making it an actual part. BTW if Sileng1 looks at this can you get me a...

rechroming isn't the issue. it's the pit marks that'll cost I was quoted 6.50 per pit just to get my stuff done. I see at least 20 pits to fix on that one piece alone. so 120.00 right off the bat before re-plating and chroming stripping it will probably show other pits that need to be fixed also.

have someone design it up and then have shapeways make it for you, probably cost less doing that than striping it,fixing all the pits with muggy weld or a similar product and then having it rechromed. my tail light bezels would cost about 650 each (4) at minimum to get fixed that way due to so...

runs all the way up and under the quarter panel seal and all the way to the top and weather strip sealed the top opening of the bulb

I'd need the dimension of the original sill plate or at least one as a copy part but here is the setup for your spirit of 76. I'm making some of mine from ABS textured plastic too so I can change them out for different car shows. and yeah I am going to paint some of them body color

looked at the dunkin font but it was just too huge to scale and look decent for press work (BTW I was drinking Dunkin at the time too! but it was a large hot,hot,hot chocolate not coffee:p)

Tried it at .0625 depth and it still sheared. then mic'd out the male and female lettering and found out it's wayyyyyyyy too close .026 instead of the .060 I really need (my bad forgetting to add in the metal thickness on both sides of the lettering instead of just a clearance path. Stupid...

this test is in corian, if I can get it preffected then it'll be in a 1/2 strip of aluminum so the press doesn't break it like it does the corian (makes large cracked even glued solid to 2 layers of 1" 9 ply plywood) wiht a 1/4"x 3" x 40" thick strap in the center of them

Been slowly getting back to the garage to finish up a couple projects for the Dart and found a cool little project I want to see finished. I wanted a name plate fr my outer plain jane scuff plates and these just might work out after I fix the oops and bug in it. first test was wayyyyyy too...

should be a safeguard made glass from McGraw Glass plant in Detroit Michigan that was sandblasted in using a stencil before going through the furnace (worked there from 66 to 2003) M code and probable the 61 0r 62 series (clear or tint.) laminated glass. in the 70's there wasn't a date code...

I'm doing the ceramic coating on my side glass in my convertible while the glass is out and easy to do(even though it's harder to put back in without scratching it). But I found a company that will make me a charcoal tint rear window plastic for my convertible and am going to order one of them...

just skimmed past, instead of reading,, have a lot of duh moments lately.

Uhhh in the last pic isn't the tube supposed to be INSIDE the quarter panel ? that will pull that cap in a lot closer too. (all of mine are and so is Tinmannz)

these? they go into the top part of the roof line and wrap down to the front by the wing vent pot metal to seal it off 1965 Dodge Dart Parts | MA9825 | 1964-65 Dart Roof Rail Weatherstrip - 2 Door Hardtop - Pair | Classic Industries

yup who'd a thunk it was the opposite of what it looks like.

wohhoo sweet. Thanks 'n' now I can find/get the bolts and get the parts off to waggin. BTW the rubber pieces are/fit in the rear bumper area (look for a hole in the quarter panel rear bumper area.)

wohhoooo! thanks now I have an idea of what type of bolts I need to get and be able to give back Waggin his parts THANKS.

on the frame rail

nah these rubber pieces, I need the spec of the shoulder bolts that go into those rubber pieces I've got those and the darts rubber pieces made but they make them cheaper than I can buy the materials for them.

rear bumper area supports (so bumper jack doesn;t jack up the bumper and chip paint or dent the chrome strip if you have it.) I have those pieces and have to get them back to Waggin, (lost the bolts, wll put them away so I wouldn't lose them and promptly forgot where I stashed em) Can you...

I'd fix it if it won't take major metal repair. I had to split and section my right rear outer taillight housing opening on mine to make it level with the trunk one.. then I noticed it on almost every one of the 66's I saw (looks like a jig error at the factory and 65 look to be the same)