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I might suggest using quad 0 steel wool to polish the bores. Be sure to clean the cylinders meticulously afterwards. Either that or tear it down and clean it properly with new rings - at least. For the cost of a set of rings and a gasket set, that would be my path..my .02.

As long as you bedded the rear seal in RTV you will be fine.

2 to 3 thousandths wear is not worth concering yourself about. You do not need to bore the block. The old service manuals talked about 10 thousandths as being the limit before over boring. Save your money and if you want, get new pistons in standard size that achieve your target compression...

Did you inspect the rod and main bearings when you did the work ? Assuming you did - what was the clearance like ? Those engines also use floating wrist pins, anything done to the small end of the rods ?

I had a similar issue with the 360 I put in my 73 sport. Top of intake gasket crushed down nicely - bottom did not and leaked oil into the intake ports. Tried using sealants on new gaskets, thicker gaskets etc - no good. I knew I had machined the head for compression .030", but figured it was...

I agree with rusty rat rod. Just gently push up and down until the slack goes away while turn in the adjuster - then one full turn on the adjuster and away you go to the next one. Crane cams specifies 20 to 60 thousandths preload, one turn is about 40.

bad coil maybe - Ive seen motors do exactly what you are describing with a bad oil leaking coil.

Another way to think of this is the oiling notch on the big end of the rod is supposed to face the opposite bank of cylinders.

I'd do what is suggested above. When messing with dist, do all initial set ups without vac. adv. The initial timing is set by determining the point at which the rpms continue to increase and then drop off while at idle. Disconnect and plug the vac adv line on the carb. Check and increase the...

Off the top of my head these look like the 340 type springs which are good to around .500 lift. If you pull a couple springs off the heads - take them into your favorite machine shop and have them measure the open and closed pressures. Thats the best way to find out what they are.

thanks man !

Anyone know what the stock combustion chamber cc's are for the so called #302 casting heart chamber heads ?

You could probably just use a later model flat tappet 318 cam, pretty similar specs and hydraulic lifters..just a thought.

The valve springs could be from a lot of different manufacturers. Best way is to pull another "good" valve spring, take it to a shop and measure the open and closed loads. In all likely hood if this is a street engine with a mild cam the stock 340 type spring should be a good bet. These are...

As said above its the gas evaporating in the carb, or the choke. My cars when they sit overnite will evaporate the gas. Mine sit inside a garage and I drizzle a little gas in the carb using a cup when I want to run them. They start immediately. Not the most practical for a daily driver, but...

Slip a piece of fuel line over it with some hose clamps ?

CHECK YOUR FLOATS IN THE CARB !!!! It sounds like the floats are either leaking or set wrong, thus the high level and thin oil in the crankcase and the zero oil pressure. Gas is leaking into the carb and into the motor !!! Pull the carb apart before running it any more and do a rebuild - when...

FE = Ford Edsel The engine was named after the car they first put them in. FE's are pretty similar from a basic standpoint (looking at the short block) when compared to a BB mopar, deep main bearing web crankcase etc, but the stock heads suck and the bearing sizes are not too good. Oiling is...

When fitting the carb to the manifold, you might need an adapter, 70 and older intakes were flanged for AVS or AFBs. 71 and newer would be flanged for a TQ. Otherwise the intakes are the same from what I have seen. Of course if you are going by the casting date a 70 might be for model year 71...

Depending on the displacement you are looking for - there are tons of 318 hyd roller motors in the bone yards, and 360's as well. If your motor is not already machined or otherwise ready to go, why not pick up a late model roller engine and do it to it. All you'd need is the short block.

My guess is two things: timing and jetting. Get as much initial into it as you can, something like 16 degrees, and check the base line jetting in the carb, put in the stock size jets. If its a holley make sure you have the stock value power valve in it. Your mileage with that set up should be at...

My .02 - check the vibration damper timing mark against a positive stop on cylinder #1. verify it is correct. I just about tore my hair out before finding this problem on my motor. Car would not start and acted almost the same as you described. Bottom line - never assume - check everything...

Backyard mechanics solution to not having an air compressor to close valves. Get a length of cloth clothes line. Shove a bunch in through the spark plug hole with the piston at BDC leave some hanging out, rotate the engine around until the piston in that cylinder locks because of the...

I know this doesn't necessarily help, but what you need to do is educate yourself on how to check out the engine as you take it apart, either that or make friends with someone who knows how. Using plastic gauge, feeler gauges, and some simple snap gauges can tell you alot about the condition of...

It can be a hassle. But it usually can be snaked out. What I had to do was un do the starter bolts etc and then turn the front wheels one way or another to get clearance. You should still be able to get it out one way or another without dropping the exh system or anything else for that matter...

Some people (like me) actually go out of their way to put things like slingers in. They only help control oil around the front seal - not a bad thing to do, and as mentioned work fine with any timing set.

Ive compared the so called #302 swirl port heads with the early 273 closed chamber heads. The 302 swirl port heads have a smaller combustion chamber. So putting a set of them on wont lower your cr and in fact I'd be inclined to believe you will loose flow. The intake ports on 302's have a huge...

Porting heads is not too hard, just don't go nuts doing it and try and keep in mind where the water jackets are. you mainly want to clean out the castings where the valves go into the head, (bring them out to the edge of the seats) and port match them to your gaskets. Be sure to get some carbide...

If the rust was very light the scotch brite should have been okay. Make sure you clean clean clean the cam before installing it. No guarantees but chances are good it should be okay as long as it gets broken in properly.

Those compression results look very good. I would not be concerned about it. Your problem is isolated to the carb or the ignition. Work through both systems and you'll probably find the problem.