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should not spin, it should be the same as the other 2

I've seen them do that before... gurgles back up through the PS pump.... I would not worry unless it does it once the car is running.....

you will find the heads to those bolts once you take the brake disc off....

I modified my saginaw pump like the link OCDart posted above. It firmed up the steering a bit.... real easy to do and play with to get whatever amount of assist you want.

As stated above, leaf springs don't move in the middle, but the ends of them do rub against eachother. Look at where the arch is, not much in the middle where the u-bults go.... think about it! If, as pishta said, 45 ft/lbs is 5400 lbs clamping force, how much do you really think they are...

did you try a local spring shop? Those should be standard leaf spring hardware, not Mopar or A-body specific...

my doors open and shut fine if it is on the ground, If I jack the front up and put jack stands under the frame right behind the front tires, the doors still open fine but the driver will normally not shut at all. When I just had the tranny out recently, I also had the the back end up in the air...

If I recall, (been a few years) I just hit mine with an impact wrench... that should knock the nut loose without torquing the bushing. (sharp raps on it instead of brute force from a rachet or breaker bar on a socket)

X2... I have done this on other rigs go get the ride height I wanted.... will change the ride a bit but will also raise it like you want. All it takes is some time!

I adjusted the pressure down in my pump and it made a HUGE difference in the way the car handles. I did not have the $$ for a FFI box but had a whole drawer full of washers and a grinder. Easy mod and does not cost anything.

method 1. steering wheel puller. method 2 (my Dad has better luck with this than I do). loosen nut holding steering wheel on so it is at the end of the shaft and the threads are protected. Put feet up on something so you can apply pressure to the underside of the steering wheel with your knees...

washer trick is a great idea, I did that to mine.

new tires could have hit a chuckhole or something... I would take it in and have the balance checked on them. If not, at least jack up the front end and have soneone put it in gear and spin the tires up to 25-30....

I agree with Mod5V. I have built spring stacks for a couple of my rigs to get the ride height and stiffness I wanted. (60 Willys wagon, and 59 Suburban). You can actually do that without taking out your leaf springs... You will need longer center bolts in the springs and probably longer U bolts...

I looked at pricing and ended up getting a rebuilt one from Napa (about 125$) with a lifetime warrantee for my 69 Barracuda. I did not want to spend the 369$ or whatever firm feel wants (and only a 1 yr warrantee). I did the pump valve mod in this link.... I am not done yet so I can not tell you...

there are also spring shops that will re-arc your old springs and/or add another leaf to them. They do that on larger trucks and motorhomes a lot, I'm not sure how often on cars though.

you can also go to the nearest wrecking yard and get a pair of leaf springs the same width. Take off the wheel, u-bolts and center bolt of one side and add a leaf or two from the springs you bought. I have done this on other rigs (Willys wagon and 59 Suburban) to get a certain ride and height...

make sure you use a flat ended pin punch, not a tapered center punch. A center punch will just spread the end out and make it tighter in the hole. you have to have a punch the same size as the hole or REAL close to it.

A lot also depends on your intent for the car. If it is a daily driver, in all kinds of weather, use rustoleum (spray can or spray gun if you have one)... much cheaper and easier to touch up.

you are not hoping shocks will raise the front end are you? You shold be able to get 2" by adjusting your torsion bars.. .you'll probably want to go have it aligned once you are all done with getting the ride height you want though.

you shold email them, they may have an adapter to fit your steering column.

leaf springs is the right way to do it. If you need a tad more after that, you can put o longer rear shackles. Air shocks maybe to stiffen it so when you go over a bump it doesn't go down as much but, you really don't want to use them to lift it up and support the weight of the back end of the...

Also, if you ask someone that installs them, they will tell you that you need to replace the u-bolts as they stretch when you tork them down and a lot of times, they have been rusted on there for years and sometimes get weakened when you pull them off.... then there are those that would reuse...

when I swapped from SBP drums to BBP disks on my 69 Barracuda, I changed upper arms, and also the lower ball joint. I did not change the LCAs but did have to shorten the stud that attaches the sway bar to the LCA. I just used a short piece of all-thread.

I normally pry it off... hitting it with a hammer usually won't work too well because your bushings take up most of the energy that your hammer blow delivers.

that's about it. Spray a lot of good penetrating oil on the u-bolt threads the night before.... you won't be sorry....speaking of the u-bolts, you should replace them while you are at it. A lot of people reuse the old ones but, it is recommended to replace them whenever you take them off.