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I like and use Remflex on everything. Also prefer studs over header bolts, where possible.

Thanks, guys. Yup, we pulled the pan (spent more time trying to break the seal than anything). Wasn’t bad at all and worth it. It’s all back together now. Just waiting for a couple of dabs of RTV to fully cure.

Thanks, yeah, we may just suck it up and drop the pan. It’s in a truck, rear sump. If it doesn’t hang up on the pickup or something it might not be too bad.

My son's doing a cam swap on a 440, in vehicle. It's certainly not rocket science but looking for tip involving the cork section included in the timing gasket set. Tried gluing the cork section to the oil pan lip but found we could not compress it enough to get the timing cover over the dowel...

According to the gear ratio calculator I used here: Gear Ratio Calculator a 3.79 ratio would have netted me the equivalent 3.55 gear ratio with the taller tire. Yes, close to 3.91, but a noticeable difference to me while driving. (255/50-16 to 325/50-15)

I ran a 26" tire with 3.55 gears and it was okay - a little wound up at highway speeds but not too bad. Now I have 28" Nittos with 3.91's. Pretty noticeable difference and I like it but don't know if I'd want to spend a lot of time at highway speeds. 3.73 might be a good compromise for you but...

I have a Mancini locking. It’s very close to the firewall but entirely functional. (Non AC) Mancini Racing Locking Transmission Dipstick

I'll add to the collection... Close to torsion bars but there is adequate clearance.

From my response to your question in another thread: What I originally did was go to a parts store and order up a couple of different hoses for a B or C-Body application with big block. Test to see which fit the best and return the unused. It's been a long time but I believe the upper may have...

What I originally did was go to a parts store and order up a couple of different hoses for a B or C-Body application with big block. Test to see which fit the best and return the unused. It's been a long time but I believe the upper may have been a Gates 20875 or Dayco 70352 and the lower a...

I'll be happy to give you a price but it'll be better via PM or 'Conversations'. Let's help clear some inbox space. Here's one way: Click on 'inbox' > Check the Conversation Titles you want to delete > A popup will open > Click on 'Leave Conversations...' (This will delete ones you selected).

Your inbox is full. I have a set from a '68 block.

In my experience, it doesn't hurt to be more generous in the cut, both vertically on the side and longer towards the oval slot for pump clearance. If there isn't enough it'll be rattling against the perch. Last time I had the engine out I added a 1/4" plate that served as both a shim and...

Love my BB A-body! Went Schumacher route with what they called a 'Magnum' mount at the time (I believe the Polylocs are the replacement for those now) and their torque strap just for good measure. Agree with the shim kit. I have /6 K and with the mod that has to be done to the driver side perch...

Yeah, I get what you're saying and won't dispute it. I didn't say it was ideal, or easy, or that the results would be perfect, or be at the level of a 'professional' - only that headers could be coated with a product such as the one I named. My bad. I had access to the right prep tools, a large...

If it's in the budget, then buy of have coated. If you have more time than money you could also try a DIY coating like Chromex. Has to be baked and polished.

A proper shroud can make a big difference. And if using an aftermarket radiator, make sure it is sealed to the support in such a way that air is forced through the core - not allowed to flow around it.

...And I'd consider bumping your initial timing up with your cam. 'Retarded' timing is not going help temperatures.

Piece of cake. Schumacher's your friend. My upgrade from a slant... (and I kept the heater) :)

You do have a cast crank will need weight at the converter. (I edited my original reply to simplify it)

What year is the engine? Is your engine assembled from parts from various sources? Do you trust the person who told you it was a cast crank? See this page to help identify the stock damper (balancer) you may currently have: http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm If you have the balancer that was...

You'll get an unlimited number of recommendations on all sorts of things. It really comes down to your budget, priorities, and what kind of car you're wanting to build. Big difference between a race or show car and a budget-minded, down and dirty street car. A Wilwood setup is nice and will...

In addition to the Schumacher mounts (that I would recommend as well), he sells "Magnum" mounts which are designed not to fail and rip apart as the old rubber biscuit mounts from the factory would eventually do. The van would have used the later spool mounts which were a better design. So your...

A four hole spacer (rather than open spacer) under your carb will net you a little more bottom end torque with the TII.

Some guys just like to bend up some wire and take it Napa to try to match. All of your connections are on the right (passenger) side? For the lower you could start by looking up an application for a mid to late '70's Mopar with big block (ex: '78 Dodge Magnum with 6.8 (400)). They had the WP...

There's no reason you can't use the common replacement rubber seal with the stock crank knurl. I've had better luck though with the Viton main and side seals that are available now. Or, use a rope - whatever you're most comfortable with.

Yup, would do it again and again (for the same reasons the boy and I are now building a BB truck for him). :)

Yes, they'll work with PS. Will come close or possibly just touch the corner of the PS gear box near the top. Grind the corner of the of the box if necessary - no biggy. Or you may have to use one of their 1/4" shims (on a biscuit mount). They fit and work great - especially for street cars...

Inspect things, as suggested - then throw another pushrod in it. Happened to me once, many years ago, out of the blue, on a stockish engine during startup one day. Installed another pushrod and never had an issue again.

Keep looking. I doubt Mr. Hoarder has anything in his pile worth $1K. I bought a complete pair of cores recently for $300 and got a 727 thrown in for free. A couple of years ago I bought a core shortblock for $250. So, it varies but there's some risk involved. There's some factory stampings on...