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So much depends on your combo. 360 on a 318 with 2 barrel or 4? Exhaust? Headers? Camshaft? Stock trans? Stall Converter? Gears? Not trying to be difficult, but the combo makes a difference. 360 with 2 barrel or cast iron 4 barrel, through exhaust manifold and stock exhaust, will not be...

The heads get extremely narrow on the pushrod pinch area. I spent several hours porting a set that are on my 97 Ram 5.9. Gasket match, smooth the pinch so it is a ramp instead of step, and there was a lot of material under the valve seat. The exhaust manifold is a ball and socket style, and...

For daily driver duty, I would stay smaller side 600 CFM range. You might give a few top end horsepower, but smaller will give a better vacuum signal to boosters, for better off idle performance, which is where much of around town and daily driver are used. I would steer clear of the Summit...

My truck was 4950 across the scales in the metal yard. I imagine an A body to be AT LEAST 1,000 pounds less, and that is conservative, probably more like 1,500 lbs. 1,000 is a 20% reduction, 1,500 is a 30% reduction. 20-30% less mass to carry, should equal more MPG, especially since my 360...

My 97 1/2 ton 2wd 5 speed with 3.55 gets 17 on a 15 minute highway jaunt, on a daily basis. Verified with ScanGauge II mpg computer. 5.9, with short headers, Magnaflow exhaust, electric fans, ported heads, ported intake, ram air with K&N filter, etc I bet it gets several more MPG in a...

Gains? No idea, never measured in any way. I sold performance parts for a living for years. I made the modifications with an attempt at increasing efficiency and power, but never got to the point of full on hod rod efforts.

Keep in mind, the EFI system is speed density. Items added that add air flow (intake, exhaust, headers, cam, etc) will help because they make the engine more efficient, but the computer does not have a way to gauge the additional air flow, and you will not get the FULL benefit that could be...

Considering the nature of the car, why not look at a turbo? You could use the mild build direction of the 360, but add the turbo that gives the additional HP with a tip of the throttle. When not in boost it is a minimal restriction, and the heat that does come with boost tends to help fuel...

What he means is moving the fan to the left or right, up or down, so that the thickest part of the fan is not directly lined up with the water pump snout.

I always had to use the hole saw...

Add a zinc additive to the oil. Try the turkey baster with oil, and squirt with high pressure, the oil into the drain hole areas, and try to get as much oil into the intake valley as possible, to get some oil onto the camshaft.

Magnum motors use metric rings, which makes the rings much more expensive then standard rings. If you rebuild with new pistons, you should consider using an aftermarket piston due to sheer cost of the piston and ring combo, plus parts cost down the road for rebuild. I priced a set of...

BTW, I like the idea personally. I would love to see a 5.9, with ported or aftermarket heads, a mild cam, throttle body and intake upgrade, and good exhaust. The EFI would keep it streetable, and efficient, with power.

Much of this is theory only, I have not swapped personally, but I have spend a great amount of time into a Magnum swap on my 97 Ram (stock 5.2 died). The biggest obstacle I see is the computer trying to interface with gauges in dash, and Check Engine Light, as you said. If I was swapping this...

I wouldn't jump to cam swap right away. The stock truck motors don't like to rev because of the intake manifold design. "beer barrel / Kegger" style intake with LONG runners for torque, and a marginal sized throttle body. These, coupled with a mild cam, create an engine that is built for TQ...

I agree with Chuck. I think the corrugated portion of the oil ring setup got overlapped instead of butted, which is not putting the pressure on the oil rings that it should.

I would open the intake up to match the adapter. I would also see what you can do for port matching the intake to the heads. I think the 500 CFM 2 bbl would be a good setup on a mild small block.

What he is saying is one of the thicker oils commonly available in the market. I am wagering that he thinks the thicker oil will add a measure of additional protection in bearing clearances.

Hey... It was ON SALE. Perfect excuse for every piece of clothing the wife brings home. ON SALE. I figure what is good for the goose, is good for the moose...or whatever that saying is.... :)

While Dave knows his stuff, I would still recommend the break in additive, at all times. If you know the new oil doesn't have what it should (enough of what it should), why risk your engine? The additive is 12-13 bucks. A new engine after your existing flat tappet has sent metal throughout...

So you get better answers, I suggest you give the overall direction and use of your build. What kind of car is it going in? What kind of behavior are you looking for? What do you define as "Low buck"? High RPM, race type motor, or low and mid RPM, torque based motor? This will allow the...

After the breakin period, you can go to whatever brand you like but you still need to keep the COMP cams additive on each oil change. Modern oil is lacking zinc, and the additive puts it back. Straight oil on flat tappet cams will result in advanced wear unless the zinc additive is used all...

408, with forged bottom end, big heads (Indy?) with bigger single turbo, Megasquirt to control it. 727 with gear vendors to 8 3/4 with 3.91 gears. mandrel bent exhaust with big magnaflows, over axle, with dummy 2" chrome tips to throw them off base. Black out entire undercarriage including...

I guess I don't understand?

I am going to use the 360. Since I am going to keep the truck for a while, I decided take the time to regasket the 360 and use the heads from the 318 that are good heads, plus port the intake. Here are some head images: The valve guide boss, is HUGE. Some definate improvements can be made...

I suppose I should give a little background on use here. This heads are going on a 360 into a 97 Ram 1/2 2wd 5 speed. It is a commuter, parts chaser, etc. As such, velocity is probably the best direction for what the truck does and needs. I am adding all new gaskets, new water pumps, and...

Thanks for the info everyone. I have 2 sets of OE heads. I valve job, etc is not in the budget. I am going to do some low buck gasket matching, bowl blend, and call it good. I am also going to "degunk" the valves, etc. I will smooth the pushrod pinch area, but not much more. I guess if...

The general concensus is that stock heads are thin, and crack prone. The high powers of the world want you to buy aftermarket castings, but that is not possible. Too much $$ for a commuter truck. The truck made good power with a 318, and good exhaust system. The 360 with cleaned up heads...

I have a set of Magnums, off my "need to be rebuilt" 5.2 that I am going to put on my new "used" 360. I am also removing the center divider in the kegger manifold, and porting the runners to match gaskets. My question is on the heads. Supposedly Magnum heads outflow traditional LA heads, but I...

I personally like the Magnum swap, but the cost is such that I don't think you can do it for your 1 k budget, even using the cheapest parts. If this route is for you, I suggest finding a donor vehicle. I have seen complete vans with 318 and the OD transmission for under a grand locally. The...