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Even right, odd left?

If you are talking visqueen, I would be tempted to use regular old silicone. It wouldn't take much, just use your finger and smear a thin line around the opening.

You won't break them, those controls will come right out with the cluster, as HH said disconnect the battery first.

I always drop the bracket that holds the steering column up to the dash, this allows it to drop enough to remove the cluster.

I used VHT interior paint that I picked up at O'Reilly's I believe. Prep is important, cleaner the better. Then follow their instructions, start with the adhesion promoter and follow up with light coats until you get desired coverage. They might even have a primer as well, I don't know.

You won't, just follow the steps and they will be fine.

Yes they can be dyed. I used VHT, with great results going from blue to black. Surface prep is very important, clean, clean, clean, followed up with the VHT adhesion primer, then paint in a couple light coats. I think I got mine at O'Rielly's. VHT Vinyl Dye™ -- Specialty Products

That ^^

They are there as mentioned, across the middle and one on each end where it curves down. **Move your hand around slowly** as also mentioned that sheet metal is sharp and will cut you without hesitation.

Maybe try chrome paint. It might end up shinier than the silver paint.

Post a wanted ad in the Cars and Mopar Parts Wanted Locking mechanisms for fold down rear seat in year and model of your car. Make sure you list all of what you need. I would want the lock mechanisms, the bolts and the covers. Are the pieces on the seat itself there?

Word of caution, if you do pull the seat and you had it pushed back, be very mindful of where your hands are. If it's in the way of the bottom track and you pull on the wire, it can slam forward with a fair amount of force. It hurts.............don't ask me how I know, lol.

As clean as that is, I'd be tempted to throw a new carpet in it and keep it the way it is.

Here it is installed. It should work well on the seat backs.

I used this on my interior. Be sure to get the 'adhesion promoter' as well. Clean, clean and clean again, follow directions to the letter. It works and covers well...

Those look like the little critters right there..

Put up an ad in the Cars and Mopar Parts Wanted section, I'm sure someone here has some. That's how I got mine.

Buy a quality product, and get the adhesion promoter, AND follow the instructions for prep and application. It does a fine job, IMO.

HOW TO -- Glove Box Latch Removal

Click on his user name, a box will pop up, click on 'Start a Conversation'.

If you are painting it in stages, just put the adhesion promoter on in stages. Do the first section (promoter then paint)>mask. Do the second and so on.

I dunno, I ordered a part from Summit, and it was defective. I called them and they shipped out another one ALONG with a return label. UPS guy showed up next day, I swapped the part out in the box, taped it up and handed it right back to him.

That should be a fairly simple fix, IMO. I would suggest making sure the bottom side is free of any undercoating and all of the stuff it can collect over the years before any welding is done.

If you're worried about height, you might consider the Hurst Pro Matic 2 for a pickup. It has a longer shift handle. Automatic Shifter, Pro-Matic 2 Truck - HurstShifters (if you go this route, shop around, this was the first link that popped up) I run a Cheetah shifter in my 74 Sport and I...

For a buck fity, I would certainly do it myself. Nice little winter weekend project.

Should be, one nut front and rear on the track.

What car?

I think you have the right idea, but a pic would be worth a thousand words.

How about a pic of what you're looking at. I'm thinking what you're talking about are the studs that hold the column in place.

There are still cables underneath. Just use caution, I'm tellin' ya those things bite, I learned the hard way.