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I delt with him last year....had a lot of issues initially but it was all resolved eventually. A lot of factors. I placed an order for spindles, was told they would ship ASAP then never did. He was out on the road to shows and his warehouse guy died come to find out. He and his wife were very...

Since you upgraded to 10's in my opinion you may as well upgrade the MC and a couple other things as well. Get a nice aluminum MC and 2 to 4 bolt adapter. Much lighter and grat pedal feel! Which one? Rock Auto, get one for an early 90's B100/150 van. Then get the adapter and better rear wheel...

:cheers:

Ditch the booster. Go manual. That's a nice master. Just be done with it! More space under the hood and less weight, good pedal feel. Win win win....just finally ditched the power stuff on my duster and lovin it. It worked fine but a well set up manual brake car stops great and pedal feel is...

Just put a new aluminum MC on my Duster. If your going manual disc/drum get one from an early 90's (90-93) B150 van. It's got the right bore size (1 1/8"). $30 from rockauto! Then just get the 4 to 2 bolt adapter from Ehrenberg/Summit on the old interweb. He's the one that recommended the MC...

Pricey! Hey I've got the complete booster and MC setup from my 70 Duster just removed for my conversion back to manual discs and alluminum master. So I'd let that go to anyone interested for a fair price. It's in fine working order. Pushrod included too, PM me if interested....thx

For a manual disc/drum setup use a MC from an early 90's B1500 van or similar vehicle. Correct bore size and cheap at RockAuto! That's what I use works great on the Duster and previous two A body's 67 Dart and 71 Scamp. Lighter than the old junk too! You do need the adapter as mentioned above...

Thanks guys...I'll to the MC line removal check I think too. ..and check the pedal return spring. Didnt think about that!

You know, that's interesting you mention that. I tried with my hand a little and was able to flex it some, but I had bad leverage at the time with how I was reaching. I didnt want to do that "band-aid" really but I may have to for now. I think I could bend it enough if I worked at it...anybody...

Hey guys - My pedal is just about 1/8" away from contacting the switch, so as a result my brake lights are always on. Adjuster that holds the switch is as far forward toward the pedal as can be, and I tried going in reverse and braking multiple times to try and get the pedal up but no...

www.mpbrakes.com - For a complete pre-assembled kit. Cost's some $ but when you figure in the cost of buying all the seperate pcs for a Wilwood type kit, the MP kit makes sense... Or... try www.musclecarbrakes.com - For a nice drum refurb kit. You maybe happy with this! If your 9"...

Where's all the guys with the re-manufactured master cyl. horror stories...lol? I agree, I wouldnt go hunting in the parts yard either. I'd go alluminum, unless your worried about keeping an OEM look.

Cant speak for how to replace your booster. But in my opinion I'd ditch it, go w/a conversion to manual discs....but as far as your master cyl. goes. Yes, I'd replace it with a new aluminum unit. I bought one from Rick Ehrenberg based on an ad on Moparts. He will sell you one cheaper than a...

Thanks....that makes sense. I actually installed my aluminum mast. cyl. and new rear wheel cyl's that are larger than stock and I have to apply quite a bit more pressure now than w/ the old parts. I think that's normal though given my situation. I figure, it's new parts replacing old parts that...

So I did a search and still didnt come up w/ the answer I'm looking for so here goes...I want to convert to front discs and am wondering wether I need to use a brake booster or not? I currently have manual drums, but have replaced my old mast. cyl. with a new updated alluminum "disc ready"...