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That was the plan. Thanks for the suggestion!

LOL! It's an engine bay...if I get a run or a sag, I'm leaving it! Nobody but me gonna notice anyway.:D

I could do single stage/no CC in the engine bay with no qualms...depending on how finances shake out, I may end up shooting the whole car myself again, this time around. I'd planned on getting a HVLP gun to shoot the engine bay, trunk, and (possibly) inside floor. I'll look into the spray bombs...

A question for you A-body paint experts...did the factory clear-coat the engine bay after painting with metallics, or just leave them with the color coat? The color in question is GA4, Winchester Gray metallic on a '72.

Need I say more?

All I know is I painted the underside and trunk area with the brush on stuff and it's hard as nails. Almost like epoxy paint.

Yes. And the longer the drying time, the better.

Hint: practice first on something you don't give a **** about. You can also practice shaving to shape with the Surform

What the others said. Dig it out...it will never harden. Either you didn't use enough hardener or your stuff was bad. Always use enough cream hardener to see a visible color change. Like Louie said, it will get warm to the touch. I always put on more than I need, and as soon as it starts to set...

Did you get yours from Classic Industries? Pretty sure they carry them.

^^^^THIS^^^^^ They are available as new sheet metal. Drill out the spot welds and either braze or spot weld the new piece on.

No problem! If you have any issue working your way through the website give me a shout. I've pretty much figured out where everything is....

It's all here.... http://www.eastwood.com/paints/hi-temp-engine-paints/engine-paints.html Here is the direct link for the Glyptal interior paint: http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-enamel-set.html

If you view my resto thread (around page 29) you can see how bad the underside was. I used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer after wire-wheeling and wiping down with isopropyl alcohol and topped it off with Rust-Oleum brush-on enamel. Hard as nails.

Black is a GM thing and (to me) looks tacky. If the engine is out, paint the bay the color you intend to paint the car. If you haven't made up your mind, resign your perfectionist-self to the fact you will probably wind up pulling the motor out yet again when you do paint the car. This is how we...

First off, welcome to the forum! Not positive in regard to your question, but the factory Go Wing was an option so it would make sense that it would fit any standard deck lid. The Classic Industries link says nothing about cutouts...

My thoughts? Pull it. If the frame 'springs' a little by putting it on it's feet, it will spring back once you jack it up again. But that's just me.

Interesting results..damn near a three-way tie. Also very interesting that NOBODY picked Westley's or similar.....

My goal is not to have a concours resto. My goal is to never have to grind #%*@!! rust off the bottom of this thing ever, ever again. I do not intend to drive this in snow or salt, but one never knows what trail life takes. It's primarily a show car/tarmac terror build, doesn't have to be PC.

Well, a couple posters on another forum mentioned that if bare metal starts to rust the paint will peel and bubble and you can simply take care of it, while rust can work hidden from view underneath undercoating. I would hesitantly tend to agree, although if not driven in snow or salt I think it...

Paranoia....

Those of you who have been following my resto thread know what I've been up to....wire wheeled all the rust, applied Rust-Oleum 'Rust Reformer' and am in the process of applying Rust-Oleum oil-based enamel now. I was planning on applying spray-on undercoating over the enamel after it dries. So...

I just did my floor seams on my Duster. I wire-wheeled them and treated the rusted areas with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer, the sealed the seams (at the recommendation of a FABO member) with urethane caulk (About 8 bucks a tube) and then flat black Rust-Oleum oil base over the top. Looks good, hard...

If it comes out looking like yours Adam, I'd be happy as a pig in a mud puddle! That thing is eye-poppin' gorgeous!:prayer:

I am confident enough that I can lay a decent coat of paint. May not look like a show car, but it will look better than the rusty primer on there now. Not at all arguing that you get what you pay for, nor that a $10,000.00 paint job is not worth the cost. Rather, I am realizing that unless I...

Tell me what's wrong with Nason? I could get Centari as well, but I didn't price it out. I've shot a lot of Centari and found it to be pretty durable paint. I know nothing about Nason paint other than it's a DuPont product. So, school me.

Well, I checked with my paint dealer today; I can get Nason (DuPont) acrylic enamel in Winchester Gray for $126.00 per gallon (plus hardener & reducer) and he says it requires no basecoat or clearcoat.....prime & shoot. I'm gonna start out with a quart of color (in the spring, when it's a roller...

No apology required...this debate/discussion is why I posted the question in the first place! And my initial question has been answered BTW....no way I can afford to have someone else shoot the color at those prices. I will take Dave Bonds advice and do my 'practice' color shooting on the...

Don't suppose you have any YouTube vids showing how it's done? I'm not sure if Winchester Gray has a base coat or not. Don't believe they were using base coat paints in '72. I will probably be shooting an acrylic enamel w/ hardener and a clearcoat over the top, depending on what's available and...

Looks like I may have to shoot this one myself:banghead: