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I have pads from a '68 GTX, a '67 Chrysler, and a '68 'Cuda. If you have not figured out your dilemma, let me know; I can take some measurements for you.

Just make sure you use the correct gauge wire for the amperage draw of the motors. A separate fuse or circuit breaker would be helpful.

Nice look!

Can you post some pix of your progress?

It depends on what you want to do with the car. If it is a rare car, you might want to consider correct seats and carpet. If you want to customize it with more comfortable modern seats, you can scrounge them in junk yards or the internet, but be prepared to do some fabrication. You can score...

Hey, RedFish, that's a real good idea! Is foam-board what you use?

I have a '68 'Cuda that is apart. It has an automatic and the console is removed. If you have a 2nd generation 'Cuda, I can get the dimensions later this afternoon or later tomorrow afternoon.

Do a search on the site and you will find numerous threads on what guys have done. You could also scan down in this category and look for threads of that nature. There are plenty. Also, check the Restoration section.

I believe that the B-body/C-body radios are bigger.

Before you file down the hook, be sure that nothing is bent, which could be the case if someone previously "over did it" when removing the seat bottom.

Nice work, man! I want to do the same thing for my '67 New Yorker for Interstate travel.

Thanks for the info. Do you know if the same hold true for their vinyl products and headliners?

Nice work, Skep!

I think Legendary makes their own.

How would something like Duplicolor undercoating work? It seems thick and has lumps of rubber in it.

Stacy David repaired a steering wheel on Gearz a couple of years ago. The video might be onm his website. Turned out like new.

Nicely done!

Yes, push down and toward the rear with one motion and then lift directly upward. If you do not lift upward, the latch will re-engage when you release your hold on the seat. Down, back, and up. If I remember correctly, the rearward motion will need to be about one inch. The seat frame...

Cool. Fingernail polish! Who would have thought?

Are you talking about the trim piece that covers the interior A-pillar?

I believe the factory service manual describes the procedure.

How about a local upholstery shop?

The liquid bedliner also helps to keep down noise inside the car. I like the Duplicolor product because it actually has bits of rubber in it. Yeah, you sure want to treat any rust, even light surface rust, on the panels before covering them with anything.

If the floor is rusty, you first need to deal with that. I would certainly paint the floor before using liquid bedliner.

Good deal.

Just a thought here. Could the door be sagging due to worn out hinge bushings? That would put a lot of weight directly on the post and possibly prevent the actuator from doing its job correctly. Try lifting on the door handle while pressing the button.

If I am not mistaken, vinyl elasticity will deteriorate over years as the chemical compound breaks down. I think the process can be slowed with use of some protectants and it can certainly be accelerated with exposure to sunlight.

Yes, Ospho is phosphoric acid, which converts light rust to a protective iron oxide compound. It might also work on flaky rust in places that are impossible to get to, but you probably need to spray it into there with a garden sprayer. Always hose out the hidden recesses afterward in case some...

Nice work. I'd like to see it again after it is painted.

Hey, Dart, I would seriously consider installing shoulder belts if possible. All it takes is some idiot running a stop sign to ruin your day or your life.