Search results for query: *

I was quoted $1300 to have mine done. This was also to have flow tested. $500 is great. I took them to a friend and he worked them over for me.

I've had mine on for a year and half now and haven't had any problems. This is very interesting. I've put about 3500 to 4000 miles on it.

I used Felpro 1213 performance intake gaskets and have never had that problem. hmm... How long does it take to burn through after you install them?

I'm using one off of a Dakota as well.

I was going to say the same thing. I think the ideal compression is like 8.1 for turbo and supercharger.

I had this once on one of my 2.5 turbo's. It's condensation that has built up in the inside of the crank case. It was on my dip stick and on the bottom side of the oil cap. Have you been running the engine for short periods of time not letting get to running temp? Once I started driving the car...

Not trying to hijack this thread or anything. I've thought about buying a assembled 408 stroker from someone like Summit. Are these engines worth the money?

I don't know about. I used some cheap(store brand) oil once before in a Geo Metro I had and it would not hold oil pressure for nothing.

I've used Mobile one synthetic for years in my Turbo Daytona so, I just carried it on to my Duster. I read in one of the Mopar magazines about the zinc( or the absent of) in today's oils. After that I thought about a change but didn't really know which one to change to.

I have had no problems installing my Airgap. I used Felpro 1213 intake gasket.

DusterDude72 did this for me and several other members on here. Give'em a PM he'll do one for you too. Cars is my favorite animated movie so I had to have it done to my car.

I agree with you brother. I have 2.02 valves in my heads and was told on another forum from the talked about person that I shouldn't have not went that route. I didn't think that sounded right. Or, does it? Hell, I have a headache. I was always under the impression that larger exhaust valves...

I have the same TTI headers and yes its a pain to get the oil filter loosened up and out. On my Duster I use a Mopar filter the short one. I use a oil filter cap that goes over the filter(??) a ratchet, a extension to loosen the filter(if its to tight to loosen from the top) and from the top I...

That's what I plan on installing when I put everything back together. LOL...

Really! OK then. That's good to know. Thanks.

I had to unbolt my passenger side header last night. When I removed the first header bolt(at the front of the engine) coolant started leaking from the bolt hole. On Chrysler 360 heads is this supposed to happen? I know it doesn't on GM heads. I'm guessing someone before me broke through the...

I will not use another Fram filter again on any of my cars. I'd use a Wix or a shorty Mopar filter that I'm using because of my headers. The Fram I had failed sending bad oil back into my engine.

This may not be your case but I had a lifter ticking at start up. I changed to 20w50, still there. I added a little sea-foam to see if it would free it up, nothing. Turned out to be the crappy a$$ Fram filter I was using. After hearing all of the bad comments about Fram I decided to change it...

I know I could use one. It's a real pain to get the oil filter on and off.

Don't feel bad, I have the same problem with my 360 in cold weather. I have the Airgap intake with a Eddy 600 on it. I just figured it is a cold natured engine.

I don't think its the flex plate like I though, I believe now its the torque converter getting ready to go out. The 700r4 was already in the car when I bought it. I'm friends with the previous owner who is also an ex-Chrysler mechanic. The kit(minus trans)came from the http://www.wilcap.com/...

Well, it sounds like either the TQ or possibly the flex-plate may be cracked. IDK 100%. It is making a light knocking sound that is coming from the TQ. I have the car in the air and crawled under to listen. My car has a GM 700 R4 trans with a Wilcap adaptor plate and flex-plate. I moved from the...

Well if it wasn't enough with this problem my torque converter is now giving out. WTH!

Yes, I stated that on my above post. I like your way and will try that. I used the ultra Black silicon which I think may be the problem. I'll use the High Temp this next time. Thank you all for your input. With the cork gasket I was told not to use them on the airgap that the gaskets would push...

I checked the PCV and it appears to be working correctly but I'll change it anyway. I also have a valve cover breather on the valve cover as-well. The motor was built 2004 and only has a little over 20,000 miles on it. Thanks to all that have replied.

Yea, that damn thing is leaking also from the reservoir seal or what ever it's called.. Same place as your I believe.

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have heard of that. Looking on other threads someone was talking about it and swear by it. I may give that a try. Yep, I followed all torque sequence and proper torque specs. My intake is a AirGap so the tabs have been removed from the block. Like above, I've done...

I know I had enough sealer cause it oozed out when I put the intake on. I did make sure the surface was clean and free from oil. This is the first time I've ever had this problem. The only difference this time is that I did not use the cork gaskets. I should have just used them. Well, looks like...

Thanks for your reply. It's a AirGap intake. I didn't use the front and rear cork gasket. Edelbrock syas not to use them. Kinda wished I did now. I checked the PCV valve after the first time it appearded to be working fine.

I have a pesky oil leak that I can not get to stop. The leak is right along where the intake and block meet. This is my second time trying to get this darn leak to stop. The last three days of driving were fine until today. I looked under the hood and there I could see where oil had been running...