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Pretty sure they were know for being a big pain in the *** and not worth the efforts. Thats what I have read about them on line and in the Mopar mags. i would think that the exploder conversion is the new/cheap way to go unless your going all after market.

Sounds like your over adjusting them. With the wheels off you want the drums to be able to turn but not alot, just snug them up so if you spin it by hand the drum will turn maybe 3/4 to a full turn on its own if that makes any sense. Take it for a slow drive around the block then readjust if needed.

http://www.praisedynobrake.com/ Looking to redo the drums on the 69 D100 and found this site. Eventually I will be towing a car trailer every now and then so I want decent brakes.

X2 Did you also replace the wheel cylinders?

Thats my guess. Happened to us in Nikkis 66 dart at a red lite. We were waiting for the lite to change and the peddle went to the floor and didn't come back up. I feathered the e-brake into a parking lot, got it towed home, checked the fluid and it was low, looked at the inside of the rear...

If you wanted to go with GM metrics why couldn't you take a page from the street rodders and build your own rear disk set up? www.Speedwaymotors.com should have enough of the parts for cheap to put one together. If you are going with an 8 1/4 I would stay with the Jeep stuff but if you have a 8...

Oh darn...and I was looking forward to her next show.....god I hate that woman!:angry7: I still need to measure the driveshaft in my car and come up to your place.

Damn it Stan, you just gave me a new project for the 8 1/4 sitting on my workbench! So doing some checking the interchange is something like this... Rotors = 94-98 Grand Cherokee Pads = 94 Grand Cherokee Calipers= 94-96 Grand Cherokee You said that the lines work but what about the...

7 1/4 big bolt pattern and 8 1/4 bbp the drums and brake hardware all interchange right? Both ate 11" backing plates and look identical.

Yeah, he pmed me and asked what type of gasket was on my 73. It is that weird thin foam type of gasket. I told him I just used some old packaging material and cut one out when I was doing the 72.

Did you dad get the gas filler gasket taken care of on the scamp?

One at a time hotrod! :-D

:toothy10: Now you know why I have that old jar with the tube sticking out of the lid in my cupboard. :toothy10: Is the guy still being cool about it? I'm going back to sleep now, me and Captain Morgan got in a fight last night:pukeleft:

This is still my guess. Anyone know if the C and A valves are the same?

When it comes to good quality and ware parts like rotors I run like hell from anything that says "Made in China"! Nothing against the people but the metal is crap.

Generic. The 73 and up are one peice with studs, the KH rotors are 2 peice and you have to reuse the stock hubs.

50 bucks for a pair of KH rotors?!?!?!?!?!?! YOU'RE BIDDING ON: 2 Front R1 Concepts' OE Stock Replacement Brake Rotors MAKE: PLYMOUTH MODEL: DUSTER YEAR: 1967 - 1972 SPECIFICATIONS: Front Disc, 1970 - 1972...

This is from partsamerica.com website for the Raybestos Aimco-GS Brake Rotor Part Number: 7032RGS useing a 73 dart with bbp disks. "This product fits the following vehicles - click on a vehicle to see detailed engine information. CHRYSLER 1975 CORDOBA 1977 - 1981 LEBARON...

LOL, yeah mine looked like that between the rust and the dirt. Just heat up the studs and pound them out with a hammer and it should fall apart. You will have to clean up and reuse the hubs as no one makes them new. The rotors can be found with some searching for about 70 bucks each.

If you have one peice rotor and hub on a KH 4 piston set up please post a pic! Every Kelsey Hayes 4 piston set up until 1972 I have seen has been 2 peice. they look like one but once you drive out the wheel studs the hub falls right off. 73 and up were a one peice but you will also get the 4...

I am pretty sure that if your booster still works that it should be fine (not 100% tho). Did your car come stock with the KH set up or are you swapping them in?

I don't see why it wouldn't. We converted from stock drums to the KH disks so I got the new booster set up from one of the vendors down at the Portland, OR swapmeet last year.

Thanks for the info. I know you can send your old ones to them and then click "cores sent" on the order page and it will deduct the 100 bucks before they get them and if yours are to crappy to rebuild they will bill you for the extra 100 bucks. I did find a place in Renton...

I don't have any pics of the hub (hat) and the rotor as one. The hub is held onto the rotor via the grooves on the wheels studs, it's just a press fit. (This one I had to replace due to a dead lugnut that stripped some threads on the end) In order to get them apart I used a tortch and...

Do the calipers come back from calipersonline with the tubes that connect the 2 sides or did you re use yours? I emailed the guy at Calipersonline a while ago but he wasn't too clear on this fact and I want to send them out pretty soon.

Is this right for the KY disk set up? It looks just like the one for the small drums that we took off the car. The only numbers I can find are a circle with a line thru it, 7 (maybe), -024-8

16 bucks to ship that little thing?!?!?!?!

After I looked at this thread I started looking again. I don't know why I never checked with MP Brakes before!!! 30 bucks. http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=499 I just did a search for 72 duster and chose "all products" and just ran down the list until I found it.

Let me know when you find one cause I have been looking for one too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Metal-brake-lines-kit-Dart-Charger-Cuda-Duster-1960-76_W0QQitemZ230198287614QQihZ013QQcategoryZ34199QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and yes I have a tube bender so I wont use my hands.