Help Mushy pedal!

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res1vw21

res1vw21

It's only metal
Joined
Oct 29, 2007
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Renton Wa
Well I know it's not an A but I did a brake job on a '65 Newport for a guy and I can't figure out what I did wrong.

I switched to a dual pot master and used a prop valve from a drum brake dart.

The Newport has all brand new lines and all brand new hardware. Everything is new!

I had some binding issues with the shoes but got it all straightened out so now the only problem is the pedal is mushy. It goes to the floor.

I bench bled the master twice, and then bled the wheel cylinders in order of rr lr rf lf.

I suppose my question is do I have a bad master? The master is a brand new rebestious unit. The pedal doesn't pump up either.


The car is a power brake all drum car.

Any thoughts? I have another master on order but it's gonna be 5 days and I don't want this car in my driveway any longer.
 
Also does any one have a prop valve from a all drum dual pot master c? Would it make a difference?
 
Did it ever go empty on the master bowls while pumping? There has got to be air in the system still. Try gravity bleeding at each wheel til a stream comes out, then see if you sxtart to get a pedal. Look under the dash for leakage from the master.
 
I don't want to say this is the problem but I work at a shop that half of the parts we get are bad. I shouldn't say half but alot are bad out of the box.
 
fishman said:
I don't want to say this is the problem but I work at a shop that half of the parts we get are bad. I shouldn't say half but alot are bad out of the box.
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Thats kinda what I was thinking.
 
redfastback said:
Did it ever go empty on the master bowls while pumping? There has got to be air in the system still. Try gravity bleeding at each wheel til a stream comes out, then see if you sxtart to get a pedal. Look under the dash for leakage from the master.
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Ok so how exactly do you gravity bleed?? Forgive me I am a body man. Yes I think the bowls got low enough they could have sucked air. Damn I thought I had gotten the air out. What you are saying makes sense though....
 
res1vw21 said:
Ok so how exactly do you gravity bleed?? Forgive me I am a body man. Yes I think the bowls got low enough they could have sucked air. Damn I thought I had gotten the air out. What you are saying makes sense though....
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Gravity bleeding is simple. Just open up the bleeder, let the fluid flow out(in a tube into a jar if you want it to be neat). If at first you get sputters, thats air. It should eventually flow continously, then just close it and go to the next wheel.
 
The way I have done it is put a rag under each bleader and open them up. Come back later (like 2 or 3 hours) and they are done. I'm sure if that isn't the way it is done someone on here will let you know how wrong I am!
 
ok, Thanks. I assume do this with the master cap off? I will go and try if and let you know.
 
Yes, gravity bleed with the master cylinder cover off. I had the same mushy pedal problem and I thought it was my new master cylinder, but once I gravity bleed the brakes were fine... Before, I did the 2 person bleeding method....
 
interesting ok well it is going drip..........................................................................................
........................drip...............................................................................
drip..........
well you get the idea. I will go take the cover off. should I press the pedal at all during this gravity bleed prosses?
 
use a piece of vacumn hose on the bleeders and submerge it in a glass bottle full of fluid. break the bleeder screw and pump till you purge all the fluid in the line. dont let master cylinder go dry. when you dont see bubbles in jar youre good close bleeder and move to next. one man job because air cant get back in with bleeder open when pedal comes up because hose is submerged. this is what i call power bleeding. works great for replacing old fluid with new. when clean fluid starts pumping into jar you have purged line of the old crap
 
I am going to try that next depending on how the gravity bleed goes.


Thanks guys you really are a great bunch of people!
 
:toothy10: Now you know why I have that old jar with the tube sticking out of the lid in my cupboard. :toothy10: Is the guy still being cool about it?

I'm going back to sleep now, me and Captain Morgan got in a fight last night:pukeleft:
 
Yha I he hasn't called me. I think he is just happy to not have the white turd in his driveway!
 
If you have a valve and push the pedal more than half way, it will shut off that end of the car.
 
360scamp said:
:toothy10: Now you know why I have that old jar with the tube sticking out of the lid in my cupboard. :toothy10: Is the guy still being cool about it?

I'm going back to sleep now, me and Captain Morgan got in a fight last night:pukeleft:
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Thought that was your water pipe lol. Dont leave us hanging we need an update
 
daredevil said:
Thought that was your water pipe lol. Dont leave us hanging we need an update
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From me or JR?

I gave up after I tried every thing that was suggested, and called my buddy Mike who is an ex dodge mechanic and he is going to finish the job for me. I need this white turd out of my life more then I need to paid for the work I did. I have too many other car things to get done including doing the body work on Mike's charger, Tara's scamp my Aspen and my dad's 49.
 
shotgun.gif


One at a time hotrod! :-D
 
yha yha yha I know.
I am planing to do one at school and finish up Mike's charger to make some $$$$$. I think the dart needs about 1200 to be done, that's paint, axles, shocks and leafs. Luckily for me my dad won't let me touch the scamp, I need to do some fix up but he won't let me near. O well it's for the better. Dart will be finished first then Aspen then Challenger. See order. Pace.
 
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