Replacing SBP Rotors

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'64 Cuda

'64 Cuda

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Can anybody tell me what's involved in replacing the rotors on the early, SBP hubs? Is there a thread that covers it? I am buying a set of early brakes to put on my car & will probably replace the rotors at the same time. Does it just take a press (I have one), or is there something else I should know? I have a FSM for my car, but it's a '64 & they weren't available then, so it only covers 9" drums. I also have one of the Chiltons Professional hardbound manuals for '72 through '78, plus a lot of general info manuals but none of them mention rotor replacement. Thanks!
 
My barracuda has the 4 piston disc brakes. The wheel studs slide through the disc and are pressed into the hub. All you need is your press. Make sure you check the disc maching when you get them. I bought new cnes from NAPA and the lug holes weren't centered and the disc wobbled and wore a hole in the caliper boot.


Bob
 
I realize this is an ancient thread but I have a related (I think) question. I just purchased a pair of new Duralast rotors from my local Auto Zone. I drove the studs out of the hubs to reuse with the new rotors. When I inserted one of the studs through a new rotor however, there seems to be a bit more "slop" between the edge of the hole and the stud than with the old rotors. Is this a matter of concern? Can I get larger studs to fill the gap better? Check out the pic to see what I am talking about.

stud.jpg
 
Thats a great looking SBC rotor.

Did you find an answer?

I'm not certain about the studs and their location in the rotor hat.

Anyone with info. on this one, please step in.

Also, when completed, a description of what you had to do, and any pics. are greatly appreciated...
 
do you have the old ones to measure? that looks too big. the rotors from wagner fit fine.
 
I will take pics for sure as I get through this process. I've never assembled a complete brake system before! I have not found a definitive answer yet but I was told by a guy I work with that the slop is not a concern and that when I bolt the wheel on it won't be a problem. I keep imagining the rotor shifting under braking pressure though. I'll go by the parts store this weekend to see if I can get snugger fitting studs. I do have the old rotors so I'll take a measurement of each hole to see what the difference is. I'd hate to have to spring for another set, especially when they seem to be fairly scarce.
 
RedScampi said:
I will take pics for sure as I get through this process. I've never assembled a complete brake system before! I have not found a definitive answer yet but I was told by a guy I work with that the slop is not a concern and that when I bolt the wheel on it won't be a problem. I keep imagining the rotor shifting under braking pressure though. I'll go by the parts store this weekend to see if I can get snugger fitting studs. I do have the old rotors so I'll take a measurement of each hole to see what the difference is. I'd hate to have to spring for another set, especially when they seem to be fairly scarce.
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How did the install of these rotors turn out for you?

Any pictures and any issues you encountered (with description/ what you did to solve the issue(s)) would be great.
 
Hey - thanks for your interest! I am still waiting for the calipers to get back from Calipers Online. I should have them in a couple of days. Also, I have new lower ball joints on order, should be here tomorrow. Meanwhile I've been cleaning and painting spindles and stuff in between rain showers. I showed my stud issue to a friend who is a mechanic and he said they were fine. So I used a lug nut and a spacer to pull one through but the threads seem to have bottomed out just a hair before the top of the stud made contact with the new rotor so now there is a gap there as well! I suspect the hub part of the new rotor is not as thick as the old one - I have a micrometer so I'll check that. If that is that case - what to do? Can I put washers under the studs? Seems pretty cheesy to me but if it's safe no one would ever see it.
 
RedScampi said:
Hey - thanks for your interest! I am still waiting for the calipers to get back from Calipers Online. I should have them in a couple of days. Also, I have new lower ball joints on order, should be here tomorrow. Meanwhile I've been cleaning and painting spindles and stuff in between rain showers. I showed my stud issue to a friend who is a mechanic and he said they were fine. So I used a lug nut and a spacer to pull one through but the threads seem to have bottomed out just a hair before the top of the stud made contact with the new rotor so now there is a gap there as well! I suspect the hub part of the new rotor is not as thick as the old one - I have a micrometer so I'll check that. If that is that case - what to do? Can I put washers under the studs? Seems pretty cheesy to me but if it's safe no one would ever see it.
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any update on calipersonline or the studs?

Curious as to the quality of the re-work by calipersonline and the stud solution.

Happy Easter.
 
Hi, sorry for the slow reply - been busy with work and family. Cold rainy weather has kept me mostly indoors so I haven't gotten very far on the brakes. Got my brand new rebuilt calipers which look great! Also got my new lower ball joints and removed the master cylinder and prop valve from the parts car. I have not messed with the rotors since last post though. Here's some shots of what I have - am I missing anything???

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Thanks for the pictures!
The calipers DO look excellent!

Did you add the "hats" to the new rotors?
Are the "hats" new, and if yes, who did you source from?

Your setup looks great, and once that's installed, you'll be all set!

Even if your car is a daily driver, you should do very well with the durability side of the setup. I had one pad set changed out in 38,000 miles, with lots of stop-and-go traffic, and the occasional race weekend.

Any further info. is appreciated about the studs' install, the hats install, etc.
 
I guess I don't understand the term "hats". Is that the smaller part of the rotor? If so, they are the original pieces, I just cleaned them up and sprayed them black. I plan to run some 5 spoke rims of some kind and I want the brakes to be "pretty" :)
 
Do the calipers come back from calipersonline with the tubes that connect the 2 sides or did you re use yours?
I emailed the guy at Calipersonline a while ago but he wasn't too clear on this fact and I want to send them out pretty soon.
 
The calipers come complete with the tubes. The only thing that is missing is the little clips that hold the shoes in, and the shoes themselves - I think.

The people at Calipersonline were very helpful and responded quickly to my questions. The only scary part was that they have to accept your cores or it's 100 bucks each core charge. I had to pay for shipping both ways too...
 
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DSC04223.jpg

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I don't have any pics of the hub (hat) and the rotor as one. The hub is held onto the rotor via the grooves on the wheels studs, it's just a press fit.

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(This one I had to replace due to a dead lugnut that stripped some threads on the end)


In order to get them apart I used a tortch and heated the hell out of the stud and whacked the **** out of them with a hammer until they poped out. When I put them back togeather I set the studs in place with everything sitting on some 2x4's so not to damage anything then with a brass punch I drove the studs in to the back of the rotor and hub.

I ordered the new studs from Napa.
 
RedScampi said:
The calipers come complete with the tubes. The only thing that is missing is the little clips that hold the shoes in, and the shoes themselves - I think.

The people at Calipersonline were very helpful and responded quickly to my questions. The only scary part was that they have to accept your cores or it's 100 bucks each core charge. I had to pay for shipping both ways too...
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Thanks for the info. I know you can send your old ones to them and then click "cores sent" on the order page and it will deduct the 100 bucks before they get them and if yours are to crappy to rebuild they will bill you for the extra 100 bucks.

I did find a place in Renton http://www.olybrake.com/ that can get the KY calipers for 75 bucks a peice. The only thing is they just send yours out to get rebuilt in California. I think Im just going to go with calipersonline they seem like better quality in the long run.
 
Oh crap! I work in Renton! Wish i'd known, I might have used them. Oh well, I really am impressed with what I got from calipersonline. Oh - be sure to insure those cores with UPS or whoever you use to ship them, it's cheap and that way if they lose them you're not out your cores. thanks for the pics of your setup. By the way I can't remember if I took the calipers off the front or the back of the rotors (doh!). I see yours are on the back - is that stock for a '72? I thought it was the front but I didn't take pics. Also - seeing your master cylinder made me think of another question. I'd like to reuse my booster that is already on the Scamp and just get a new master cylinder. That will work ok, right?
 
all a body kh calipers mount to the rear for 72-earlier cars. 73-up they mounted to the front(stock).
 
RedScampi said:
Oh crap! I work in Renton! Wish i'd known, I might have used them. Oh well, I really am impressed with what I got from calipersonline. Oh - be sure to insure those cores with UPS or whoever you use to ship them, it's cheap and that way if they lose them you're not out your cores. thanks for the pics of your setup. By the way I can't remember if I took the calipers off the front or the back of the rotors (doh!). I see yours are on the back - is that stock for a '72? I thought it was the front but I didn't take pics. Also - seeing your master cylinder made me think of another question. I'd like to reuse my booster that is already on the Scamp and just get a new master cylinder. That will work ok, right?
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I don't see why it wouldn't. We converted from stock drums to the KH disks so I got the new booster set up from one of the vendors down at the Portland, OR swapmeet last year.
 
360scamp said:
I don't see why it wouldn't. We converted from stock drums to the KH disks so I got the new booster set up from one of the vendors down at the Portland, OR swapmeet last year.
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Cool, thanks for that info. I assume that a booster is a booster and the one on my car is pretty nice.
 
I am pretty sure that if your booster still works that it should be fine (not 100% tho). Did your car come stock with the KH set up or are you swapping them in?
 
According to my manuals that cover 1969 - 1982, the front hub and rotor are a single assembly. Since I have seen two piece units on Mopars, I assume they are after market. The early brakes are 4 piston, fixed caliper Kelsey-Hayes units. Before removing the caliper, push all 4 pistons as far from the rotor as you can possibly get them. Remove the pads. Remove caliper taking care not to damage the transfer tube that connects the two sides of the caliper. Reverse order to re-assemble. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
 
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