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The only two ballast resisters I see in your pictures are one on the drivers side which would be for your ignition and one on your 2 speed wiper motor for your wiper motor. if there is another, I don't see it.

I just sold an 82 S/6 transplant from a truck that I ran in my dart for 8-10 years. Running well when pulled out of my dart for a frame rail and 318 engine transplant. Sold the engine complete with transmission and rad with engine stand for $240. My add was up for 2 months when finally someone...

I had a similar issue with an alternator on my slant. Alternator worked perfectly but stupid whine drove me crazy until switched out

Here is the fuel line on my recently pulled 82 S/6 from my 76 Dart (for frame rail replacement) I can take some more detailed pictures if you need em.

I did see it mentioned but want to restate... take the valve cover as they are different for the newer 'peanut' heads from the 'drool tube' heads OH! there is an air injection port right behind the #6 cylinder that will have to be blocked either by tapping a plug or fabricating or getting a...

There are two different style of valve cover gaskets in case your actually asking about the type per engine year... One style for the earlier drool tube heads and one for the peanut style, later hydrolic heads as the cover and the bolting patterns are different for each.

I use a mid 90's dakota starter on my stock 383 and turns it over quick and easy with no issues except having to dimple a header tube.

I just continued to use my long cable and it's been fine for years and continues to be.

The slant I plopped in my 76 dart was from an 83 truck... Use the oil pan + pickup, oil dipstick, distributor and motor mounts from your old /6 for your new /6. The new slant is hydrolic lifters and the head is a peanut head (no drool tubes). the valve covers are not interchangeable and the...

I appologize man, I was trying to help but I did say in my very last statement about the resonance possibility that is was a "pulling at strings" possibility. And no it would NOT be a very likely possibility but I threw it out there because I beleive you had mentioned an exhaust change...

I have an iron cast intake on my super six and found an aluminum one in the U-pull-it lot, I was going to grab it but looking at it closely, the casting looked like it was full of tiny bubbles. It looked 'cheap' and didnt bother with it thinking about what I had read about them.

OH! A not so far fetched idea... Is the intake aluminum on that super six? I have heard that many of the aluminum castings are prone to leakage (in the actual casting) allowing a vacuum leak but NOT where you would normally check for leaks, like the carb base and the head mouting areas but...

LOL I only mentioned it as a far fetched idea AFTER mentioning things not mentioned by the OP as being checked like proper grounding of the EGR, checking the reluctor gap ignition wire connectors being clean and tight etc...

Check the spark to make sure its a nice strong blue white to rule out a weak coil. Make sure ECU has a very good ground and all ignition wiring connections are clean and tight. Use a non magnetic feeler to ensure the reluctor gap is correct as well though I'm sure if any of this were not good...

Looks good! I did a similar conversion after spinning a bearing in the original /6. I replaced it with a /6 from an 82 truck which already had the super 6 setup. I just had to use the distributor from the original 6 as the super 6 had the lean burn disty. Of course the engine mounts and...

Welcome to FABO! What year car? (I'm not going to assume a 66 because of your user name. Assuming has gotten me into trouble B4. lol) And have you confirmed that the car was originally a /6 and retains the /6 K member? Pics of the engine bay, specificly the K member would help especially...

Sorry I didnt read yours is a 68... But I think your right on someone replacing yours. Mine was a 76 (pictured) and I found another pic which almost shows the actual choke but you can definately see that its almost identical to the one you have...

Hi, Here is one of the only pics I have of what the choke thermostat heater plugs into. You can just see it bolted to the head between the air filter housing and the valve cover breather above the hose connecting the two. Cant quite see the thermostat but you can see the wire coming from...

Hey Mattb I'm interested in it if its in good shape Let me know

hahahahaha They say that curly hair has straight roots... all my thoughts must go straight up the roots then frazzle off! hahahahaha Oh theres my pic! hahahahaha

There is a dust cover as well... Just noticed Kevin Johnson already said that

I have a set here if you like. They are very light so I'm sure shipping wouldnt be a big deal (I'm in Canada)... let me know

Here is the head which requires the drool tubes for each plug and one (sorry bout the quality) that does not use the drool tubes