H
hustlinA
Guest
need a choke for a 1968 225 with Holley 1920, any one have a part number for a replacement?
-
slantsixdan
=..=
Electric choke kits. You'd need a #1231.
H
hustlinA
Guest
Here's the choke that is on the car. You can see the wire is broke on the side. Where does this wire connect? IM not even sure this is the correct choke for the car. It is a Holley brand but pitting prevents seeing the number.
Kernel Sanders
eating chicken wings and drinking beer
Hi,
Here is one of the only pics I have of what the choke thermostat heater plugs into. You can just see it bolted to the head between the air filter housing and the valve cover breather above the hose connecting the two.
Cant quite see the thermostat but you can see the wire coming from it to the control module and another wire from the control module to the wire harness on the firewall. (the grown from the firewall is also bolted to the same spt where the control module is bolted)
Hope this helps
Also, if the thermostat still is functional, I would simply solder a new wire onto it
Here is one of the only pics I have of what the choke thermostat heater plugs into. You can just see it bolted to the head between the air filter housing and the valve cover breather above the hose connecting the two.
Cant quite see the thermostat but you can see the wire coming from it to the control module and another wire from the control module to the wire harness on the firewall. (the grown from the firewall is also bolted to the same spt where the control module is bolted)
Hope this helps
Also, if the thermostat still is functional, I would simply solder a new wire onto it
H
hustlinA
Guest
nothing like that on mine, makes me wonder if someone just replaced with this choke.
No wires from my harness in that area either. thanks for the photo.
Anyone have a 68 motor with Holley choke to show?
Mark, what's that choke look like you have?
No wires from my harness in that area either. thanks for the photo.
Anyone have a 68 motor with Holley choke to show?
Mark, what's that choke look like you have?
cudamark
Well-Known Member
It looks like one from the mid 70's that came with a Holley 1945. In '68, they didn't have a heat assist choke. The chokes those years have much rounder edges and a big lip at the bottom. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow for one and I'll post a photo unless Dan beats me to the punch!
Kernel Sanders
eating chicken wings and drinking beer
Sorry I didnt read yours is a 68...
But I think your right on someone replacing yours. Mine was a 76 (pictured) and I found another pic which almost shows the actual choke but you can definately see that its almost identical to the one you have...
But I think your right on someone replacing yours. Mine was a 76 (pictured) and I found another pic which almost shows the actual choke but you can definately see that its almost identical to the one you have...
H
hustlinA
Guest
My manifold has the open sided choke well on it So maybe the exhaust has been changed at some point. Thats why the different choke. Are all open side wells for electric choke? Would do no good to add a regular choke if it is open on the side.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
I can't tell for sure from your photo but if it has the whole rear edge of the choke well open, it's the '73 up manifold. That manifold has the big round weight and a 3/8" center stud going up through the intake manifold. A '68 manifold should have a smaller section open just on the RR corner of the choke well. You can close the opening off a bit on the later ones with some sheet metal if you find the choke doesn't heat up quick enough. The '70-2 manifold has a choke well that opens into the exhaust and takes a stamped steel cup and gasket to seal it off. The choke then mounts on top of that.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
.....................................................................................................
Here's a photo of a couple non-heat assist chokes for a slant 1bbl.. The Carter is on the left and the Holley is on the right.
slantsixdan
=..=
Yep, if you've got the open-rear-wall choke pocket, it's a '73-up exhaust manifold. The earlier choke thermostat will bolt to it, but won't work right; the open wall will cause it to heat up too slowly and cool down too fast; you'll waste a lot of gasoline that way. Most of the choke thermostats for the '73-up exhaust manifold are the electrically heated type, but not all of them are. Here is a '73 non-heated choke thermostat. I don't like these '73-up (heated or non) because they are not adjustable. If the factory calibration doesn't happen to match what you need, or if you change the carb flange gasket to a thicker one to reduce percolation, you're outta luck. Better to install one of the fully adjustable Electric choke kits that does not know or care whether the manifold pocket has a cut-out wall. Note that '73 is a one-year-only setup with respect to the pushrod that runs from the choke thermostat up to the carburetor. The top of the pushrod turns right to point forward in '73 (and all previous years); it turns left to point rearward in '74 (and all subsequent years). If you are using a '74-up 1bbl carburetor (Holley 1945), you have to use the points-rearward-at-top type of choke pushrod. Otherwise, the points-forward-at-top.
The photo Cudamark posted shows a '60-'61, a '62-'65, or a '66-'69 Carter choke thermostat on the left (can't tell which of these three year ranges it is without having all three in hand; rods are different), and a '70-'72 Holley choke thermostat on the right. '70-'72 exhaust manifolds have an open-hole "stove" in place of the cast-in pocket; a stainless steel cup sandwiches a gasket to the stove hole, and the choke thermostat sits atop the cup. These '70-'72 choke thermostats do not work correctly in other-year exhaust manifolds, and the reverse is also true. There is no need to worry about Holley vs. Carter; they are fully interchangeable no matter which brand of carburetor you have.
The photo Cudamark posted shows a '60-'61, a '62-'65, or a '66-'69 Carter choke thermostat on the left (can't tell which of these three year ranges it is without having all three in hand; rods are different), and a '70-'72 Holley choke thermostat on the right. '70-'72 exhaust manifolds have an open-hole "stove" in place of the cast-in pocket; a stainless steel cup sandwiches a gasket to the stove hole, and the choke thermostat sits atop the cup. These '70-'72 choke thermostats do not work correctly in other-year exhaust manifolds, and the reverse is also true. There is no need to worry about Holley vs. Carter; they are fully interchangeable no matter which brand of carburetor you have.
H
hustlinA
Guest
I have the 1920 Holley carb on mine. I will try to find that one you linked. I will get a photo tomorrow of my choke well. Looks like that 73 non electric is what I need. Got a brand new '74 Electric if anybody wants to trade. Dan you say it dosen't matter that the one listed is for a Carter?
slantsixdan
=..=
Correct, it doesn't matter that it's listed for a Carter. When you get it and open the box, you'll find a Holley choke inside.
You'd still be far better off with the electric choke kit I linked. Kit number 1231. You will regret not buying it the first time that '73 truck choke isn't quite correctly calibrated and there ain' nothin' you can do about it. Just saying.
You'd still be far better off with the electric choke kit I linked. Kit number 1231. You will regret not buying it the first time that '73 truck choke isn't quite correctly calibrated and there ain' nothin' you can do about it. Just saying.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Dan's right, I've swapped just about every choke/carb combo and was able to get them to work with a little tweaking and by adding or subtracting some sheet metal to the choke well opening. If it is a complete mix and match, I usually start with a completely enclosed choke well and if I find the choke is coming off too soon, I use the tin snips to make a tiny window and widen it as necessary.
Gnome
Well-Known Member
ok so i tried to rig some of the old electric assist chokes to work with my 2bbl, and i bit the bullet and picked up the electric from carbs only as dan listed. my part# was a 1232 works great!! worth every penny. this is how the 2bbl hooks up...i didnt even have to change position of the hole the linkage pops into.
-
