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Holley Blue is stupid crazy loud. And unreliable. For once, the internet is accurate. I would never use one. I don't really mind mechanical pumps, they're the quietest and least hassle. Does someone make a kit to put an in-tank pump in these cars? I can't see the benefit being worth the hassle...

I was going to say...I get that stuff at wholesale, and that was way way way under the pricing I was being quoted for that pump. I'm guessing someone screwed up that data entry on the Ebay feed. Sucks.

Holy CRAP! That's a great deal. I didn't realize you meant a new pump! I think you'll really like that pump.

I swear by these pumps: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4110 Mallory pumps are very quiet and last forever, even without a return line. Make sure you get a good ground (like you need with any pump) and you're good to go. The new Holley billet carbed pumps (not the blue, etc) are...

Thanks for the links guys! I used a Lokar cable on my stuff.

Is the 750 VS or double pumper?

An LD340 or a regular Performer RPM wouldn't be a bad choice either. The only gripe I have about my air gap is cold starts. Once it gets heated up its fine, but it definitely takes longer to warm up with the air gap.

If you're happy with the Holley, I'd stick with it. Around here, Demons bring exactly nothing on the used market, but you can sell a good used holley for $200-$300. For street, you'll like the air gap a lot better. If you want a more fuel efficient carb, I highly recommend a Holley street...

Hey: First, I'd just stick with Holley if possible. I know Demon is just back from bankruptcy and all that, but before bankruptcy there were all kinds of problems with Demon carbs. If you do go demon, make sure you take it apart before you install. Make sure everything is as it should be and...

I put a 35 squirter in my 670 SA and it took care of a similar problem.

EFI can have a dramatic effect on cam choice. Make sure the cam you are using for that 500hp is going to be compatible with EFI. Buy a wideband. You will want one either way. It makes tuning a snap, carb or EFI.

I highly recommend a wideband 02. They're not that expensive and they really simplify the process. The AEM is the way to go. I am about at the same altitude as you are and my 5.9 liked between 1 and 1.25 turns out from closed. Did your street avenger come with an instruction manual? It has...

Hey: Thanks guys. This isn't my car I'm talking about. My heap has a mechanical fuel pump and a year old new tank and lines from front to back. No issues. I'd go electric if I decided to do nitrous or something, but otherwise the mechanical is doing just fine for me.

Thanks guys. It's the carb. The filters aren't fine enough and some rust was getting into it. Happy to hear that works well for lots of people though. It's the way I'll do mine. Steve

Hey All: Trying to troubleshoot an issue here. Is anyone running an electric pump just mounted in the rear of the car (in front of the tank) with the inlet line from the factory pickup to the pump?

I have an airgap on my 360 and I hate dealing with it when its cold. Car is very cold hearted, but I have no choke on the carb either. If its for street driving I would go with the regular RPM or an LD340 if you can dig one up. any of those with have a ton more torque than the torker. LOL

Mallory pumps are great. Very quiet and last a long long time. Either the 4110 4140 or 4150 would work great for you. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4110/ I have a Holley blue on a project car, and as soon as it gets its turn in line that sucker is coming off and a Mallory is going...

Try this guy: http://www.deanoscarbs.com/ He's got a *very* good rep with a lot of "stock carb" class racers. I haven't bought a carb from him, but have talked to him on the phone a couple times. Seems very down to earth and knowledgeable. Demon Sizzler will be missed for sure.

Did you do the recommended base setting? primary idle screws 1 turn out secondary idle screws 1/4 turn Most guys are used to two corner idle and so they run all four idle screws out like on a 2 screw carb. Makes things way too rich. Are you checking idle vacuum with car in low and foot on...

I've got a quickfuel 750 on my car. Very pleased with it. Very good response, but yes it does take a little tweaking to get it right. My gas gauge is broken so I don't really notice the fuel mileage. j/k

Also, I don't think Barry Grant is out of business. Or at least the website is still up.

I am a fan of quick fuel also. Recently off of the dyno where the shop owner couldn't get enough of how flat the A/F curve was. Then my buddy got his Mustang in there with his quickfuel carb and it was just as flat.

I think Chill Pills still work on grouchy old guys. You SERIOUSLY need to lighten up.

Dude: You need meds.

So... Turns out it works just fine with the new sending unit. being leery of having to drain it again, I wasn't putting enough gas in it to get it to read on the gauge. however, now that its filled up, it reads full.... Imagine that! Dumbest thing I've done for a while.....

I ran a 670 Holley on my Dart when it was still a 318. It worked great. I didn't have any linkage trouble, even on my LD4B intake.

Hey All: I've got a new tank, new sender, (vans auto) etc etc. My autometer gas gauge still barely works, if at all. Its seriously getting old. Is there anything I can do so I can find out how much gas is actually in my car?

Don't have a charcoal cannister. So I can just cap it off and forget about it? Thanks Steve

Here's my existing unit:

Hey All: In the middle of an extended mess of a gas tank install. What is this fitting on the sending unit? I recognize the electrical attachment for the gauge, and the fuel outlet. What is the additional tube/barb fitting for? My existing sender does not have this. I could use it but...