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Or put a similsr shade coat over the primer b4 the base. Just make sure you have enough to do the entire car.

This is the only issue I have had, but I have only made it as far as the hood so far. I don't think this was caused from the Ospho but paint issue. I just sanded it out and resprayed, very forgiving for blending. The hood is near the end of my thread in restorations

That's interesting because I didn't use water afterwards. It did sit for several days until I sprayed it with an epoxy primer that is used on aircraft, but I scuffed the surface with a green scotchbrite pad, then washed with a solvent before primer. no rust issues yet......crossing my fingers...

Oh, and I used a wire wheel on a drill for seams and places I couldn't the sander into. And 80 grit works very well, but I went ahead and used a 120 grit or higher to smooth it more.

The aircraft stripper is good stuff cause it uses methylene chloride. But you need to be careful that you don't get it on you, and especially in the eyes. Like was said, wash it off afterwards. I also bought something called OSPHO that I put on my car after rinsing it with the water, it keeps...

My experience is with aircraft coating. Those have to handle some extremes, such as UV at altitudes of 30k feet and up. The ones we made were three component, cc, isocyanate activator/crosslink/whatever, and thinner/reducer. The isocyanate is the one where it could be a problem. Remember Bhopal...

Maybe the newer products will have a better UV package in it. Package meaning newer, better chemicals to handle the rays better.

Not an expert on PPG, but I would try for a clearcoat that can hold up to heat.

My 71 had the charcoal canister, my current 70 does not.

Shaping that body line where the trim went. I think I'll put this in my resto thread as that is the right thing to do. It isn't right to step on another person's thread.

Getting my garage in order. Finally got compressor back in operation, will continue sanding soon. If ok with OP, I can put my progress here. If not, I'll go to my resto thread. Thanks.

Nice job Rani. Unfortunately for my 70 Dart, the trim holes is right on a trim line. I didn't do a very good job blocking it cause I could see horizontal waves from that. So I'm going to sand down to bare metal and start over. I ended up using the bridge method also as I was by myself.

Not an expert at painting, just worked with the stuff for 17 years. Mainly 2K urethanes, some chromates and epoxies. None of it is safe....... As far as respirators, KEEP MASK SEALED IN SEALED PLASTIC BAG WHEN NOT IN USE!!!!! Reason being that it will pick up solvents even when not in use on...

LOL. Saw more on this today..... Yeah, it has been a very long time.

I had the driver side fender off so it was easier. But yeah, basically what was said above. I used something to clean out the drain, then used compressed air. Water also. Not a quick job, about 30 or more minutes.

Special effect? If it is, much more work. Will take more than sanding. If mono color you're in luck.

Clay bar. No scratches from blades or wool.

I have used naptha/lighter fluid on tape adhesives, 3M masking tapes and others. Top coat was a 2k urethane though. Never, and I mean never had an issue with using it.

VMP Naptha

Todays coatings are formulated with the idea of 'spray to hide', once hide is achieved, THEN STOP! It's done to try to make it easier for painters. Good painters it won't matter, they just know, but those with less experience, this helps a lot.

Now I never painted cars, but I have done a lot of work with metallic and mica's used on aircraft. They don't use metallic on aircraft nose cones because of the radar interference, so mica's are used instead. Also, tiger striping can occur because of dirty spray guns, and/or incomplete coverage...

This above. Try to find what is referred to as 'hide charts'. Usually either large or small black and white squares. Once you spray them and the black is hidden, STOP! Uniformity of paint thickness is critical! Too little and you see through, too much and sags/runs and or the effects part don't...

I have yet to see what UV additive is used in either clear coat or a topcoat labeled on a container. There are three Tinuvins that I am personally familiar with. Usually the name of the product and the amounts are proprietary. How would I know? I MADE the **** for over 12 years. Do I know...

What gauge or thickness of steel for the reinforcement plates? Thanks.

Then it's past time to learn how. It's very easy once you know how. Follow link. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=3540

I also used Ospho on my car. No issues with primer. For me, it was good to quickly cover bare metal after paint removed since I live in an area with high humidity in the summer. I did sand/scuff it before primer if it sat any time, like 24 hours or more. So far so good with no issues. Knock on wood.

Or use another purple. Better yet, if you felt like it needed another coat then do it. Unless you clearcoated it already. If you haven't, then better spray another coat in that respray window. Check the specs on the can, or go online to find out the recoat window. Stuff today hides better than...

I think it's just clips. Using a flat plastic tool just gently pry them up.

You did use the cream hardener right? Usually a small plastic tube, stuff is sometimes blue in color, or maybe red? If you should over do the hardener, stuff will dry rock hard within 15 minutes and get real hot from the reaction.

If you can, take the whole car down to bare steel and go from there. A lot of work, and a lot of hassle, but all your questions should be answered as far as rust. I could of gotten away with scuffing over original paint and a skim over 90% of my car, but I would of always wondered about hidden...