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Cool idea and a fun welding project.

It's for extra bushing outer shell rigidity. Less shell deflection in harder handling situations. They couldn't make the hole bigger in the arm (without redesigning) for a bigger bushing so they put a sleeve around the outside-a neat idea if you ask me. I have always put them back on customer's...

They did a Firm Feel box for me and it was a huge improvement. They do good work for sure

That LCA shaft is pretty stout as is -I myself would re-use it-especially when you consider the drag cars at the track doing wheel stands time and again. In 40 years of front end work, I've never seen one fail. Doesn't mean it cannot happen but still..............

The REALLY fun ones to break are on the "F" bodies-Volare/Aspens -they are "L" shaped bars and the proximity of the adjuster and the snapping torsion bar can cause a person to soil themselves even if the suspension is unloaded at the time !!!!!

just be aware that' 73-76 take a different idler ! which I wish I owned.............

you DID weld them in with the suspension loaded ,right?

I wouldn't use it-IMO. A lot of excellent points against using that have been made, That's what makes this website so awesome-you get educated,opinions, and real life experiences. Wish it would've been around in the 80's when I was learning the hard way!

Anytime the gear box is moved by being unbolted (or even if the frame bolts are loose) will throw the steering wheel position and the toe off. Time for a wheel alignment. Steering wheel position can change also if the coupler housing is forced onto a new position relative to the splines on the...

If it is tightened down all the way and still spins there are really only two options=replacement of the arm or tack weld the flats of the ball joint to the arm. If you do weld it do not give it sustained heat or it will destroy the new ball joint-just a quick tack at each of the flats,waiting a...

And I thought I was the only one with this issue as my Dart eats Moog idlers in a matter of months. I haven't gotten around to finding out why as this past summer was dedicated to a new engine but it is curious as Moog has always made quality parts. The rest of the front end is tight and quite...

I had Steer and Gear rebuild a box for me and it was done very well. (for my Coronet -it had the feel of a cop car box-firm but not annoying-it didn't have that vague feel to it.) at my work a customer brought in their old Cadillac that had a Steer and Gear box in it and it was done well...

I'd love to know that answer too-I had them build a police gearbox for my Coronet and loved it. Maybe tell them your requirements and see where that goes?.?.?. When I go to put a gear in the Dart it will be one of their boxes!

On any old car, not just yours, we have customers replace a couple of parts and bring it in for an alignment. That is good sense. However many times , we find other parts that need to be replaced-not that we want to make more $ on the customer-we just want it to be correct like you. and here is...

Haven't used them on an early a-body but the one s for my 73 fit great and the customer service was extremely helpful with welding suggestions. Those guys are Mopar friendly and I would not be afraid to buy anything they sell.

use the" late" Saginaw-a lot easier to find easy to repair and more p/s hose options can get it in chrome if that's your thing I have a "late" saginaw on my 73 Dart and on my 90 D-150 was stock that way nice that it was used so much can change brackets from year to year and be...

According to the Moog chassis catalog : 68-72 Darts take a K-7042 idler and 73-76 take a K-7086 at the other side of the draglink(centerlink) the pitman arm is a K-7074 EXCEPT for 383 Darts-no number is given. I am curious to know if the draglink is different on 383 cars if the pitman...

Those guys are SO lucky to be involved in that build-what a GREAT occupation to have-and their welding and fabrication skills are awesome!!!!! And it's being done to an underdog of an automobile to boot!!! No mushtangs or camarios here!!!! Way cool guys!!!!

torsion bars are essentially a straight line spring and as such can eventually "sag out" or loose some of their "spring". Factors such as close proximity to headers(heat source) and other ways such as being on the curb side (the pothole side) all factor in. And yep , a worn LCA will contribute...

Oh yeah. one other thing:although dated,if you can.get a hold of an old Mopar Performance Chassis book-there is a wealth of info in there on that sort of thing!

Planning is everything:What are your intentions with the Demon? The slapper bars should be removed (for sure!)and sold to a Chevy guy then you will have green backs to buy some good shocks. If your intent is to have a resto rod, a new set of leafs and Monroe shocks is a good start.Don't...

For your upper control arms ,there are cams at the frame mounting area.:if the eccentric portions (egg shape) are all put back in the same position- like with the high spot pointing straight up you will at least have them in a neutral position. The best idea of course is to mark the frame/body...

At our shop ,we remove that inner shell of the L.C.A. bushing with a tip called a muffler splitter after first removing the inner sleeve and rubber portion.You can remove the inner sleeve easily by taking the heating torch and warming up the iiner sleeve.What generally happens is the rubber...