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yeah i think thats the route im going. i like the light pistons i was just curious if they would stick out the bottom bore too much and rock excessively at bdc

i have a stock dakota starter from car quest, 3 years strong so far. turns my 440 over with 12.5 compression. i did raise the timing this year to 38 and its struggles when the motors hot

I like my promaxx heads almost 4 seasons no issues. But im eyeing up the 270s cause theyll make more power on a new build im planning. Bang for buck from what im reading the trickfliws are real nice. If you already got heads though and its a mostly street car i dont think me personally would...

i have a torker 2 that would be a better option for you. also its tought to figure some things out. cam grinders want converter, gears, weight, power, torque, etc and then converter builders need all about the same and the cam. so what comes first the chicken or the egg

No expert here but i think your cams a little much for a dual plane and your combo in general. Depending on your weight you could be in the 10s. I run 9.60s at 2700 with a 440 .030 over 12.5 and a 255 @ .050 .618 solid roller. Promaxx heads mw ports with just casting cleaned up. And an indy...

Heres a valve

yeah i had them machine the heads to 75cc install stiffer springs for my solid roller cam. i did take them apart and check them out. im no expert but valve hights were all with in a few thousands. the valves have edelbrocl engraved on them, i did swap out retainers and locks cause i had some...

Will do going to be a slow build due to funds but its definitely getting built

check out promaxx as well i have an old set before they had the cnc program made for them

well i found diamond pistons with a 1.305 ch so that puts me .015 in the hole on 9.98 deck with the 4.25 stroke 6.535 rod. think this is the route im going to take granted the block doesnt need decked alot

yeah but how much typically needs taken off to square the deck? i know it varies im not reasy to take to machine shop yet still in the planning stages

yeah id like to stick with steel shim is i could alot cheaper than cometic not against paying more just makes it alot easier on the wallet if the heads need removed

the 470 deal i found new aluminum grp rods for a good deal at 6.86 length thats why i thought about that combo. i like the idea of a 512 but the 6.535 with 1.32 puts you at zero deck and we all know the block isnt square.

im planning a new engine for my duster drag car. this with be a a bracket motor in a 2720lbs w/me in it chassis car. know parts.Virgin 400 block, enderal bird catcher, indy tunnelram alcohol injection for induction. heads will be (for now) promaxx heads ported to max wedge intake. external twin...

What's your lash hot? after setting them .006 tighter cold. And what's your recommend lash. .022?

Have not started it yet. Soon though about to get my headers back tomorrow and will be wiring it after I cut and buff the body. With cars that are similar to mine (tube chassis duster ii should be around 2400 pounds and the motor should make 600 easy so I hope she's a runner

440 .030 over 12.5 to 1 solid roller .620 lift 255@ .050. max wedge Indy intake port matched to promaxx heads. 4 link 4.56 Dana 60 under the 7.50 cert mild steel tube chassis. Fiberglass everything besides the body. All work done by me except the chassis and the block machining.

Thankyou

I have the 1.6 hughes rockers with a .383 lift cam. Did my adjustable push rod and ended up with .618 lift at the retainer. Following to see how your turns out

My 75 duster still in the works but close

Seems to be okay now. I installed it with the oil pump this time a turned it over. I noticed a peice or two..cleaned them off and spun the motor by hand a half a dozen times and no new peice came off. Going to run it and check it after start up. There were a few burs on the gear i filed smooth...

Yes there is engine assembly lube on it, the cam gear is back against the thrust bearing. The drive shaft turns free in the bushing and has no excessive play. I did not inspect the cam or the drive. Ill do that tonight. Its a milidon drive gear. Its just weird that it turns smooth but can see...

Hello all im putting together my 440 race engine. With a solid roller cam. My question is my distributor drive gear got chewed up while i was turning the shortblock by hand. Everything spun and felt smooth. I held the drive down by hand while rotating engine and i could see little chunks of...

I know it's an old post. Buy I bought the promaxx heads. Hand blended bowls. Checked the installed heights. These heads I would say can be run out of the box. But I needed to open mine to max wedge for my intake.

Oh okay. I knew blueprinting and engine would be time consuming.but I didn't think it would be this consuming. I've had the motor apart and together more times than I can count. Heads on then off torque and untorque. I hope this is all worth it.

Well if that's the case then I need to order my pushrods first. Because I'm using an pushrod length checker and soft spot springs. I'm sure if I used the solid roller springs it's going to flex/bend the pushrod tool a little too much. And how are you compressing the valve spring at 10 atdc with...

Yeah it's going to be a drag only bracket motor. But I want it to be reliable and not have to mess with it. Do it right the first time kinda thing. I'll check everything again this weekend.

Why does putting the springs I'm going to use different from soft springs? Pushrod flex?

Yeah I know. With the .020 shim gasket I'm at 12.3 if I go to .040 it puts it at 11.8 so half a point. Not sure how much I'll lose notching the pistons. Probably not to much