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I like when people post what they paid for things. It gives some hope for the ones that think everything is out of their reach. I paid 500 bucks for a nice 5.9 delivered to my house, and 125 for a guaranteed 42RH overdrive with the converter and 7290 driveshaft yoke. Just the yoke can cost...

Have you loosened the thrust main cap and forced the crank back and then forward so it sets the upper and lower bearing halves? Just a thought.

Governor pressure, pressure switches, relays and wire.:D

No computer required for RH series, and they can be made to shift everything automatically via hydraulic pressures and pressure switches. My Dart has the 5.9 Magnum and 42RH trans fully automatic through every gear including converter lockup. 80 mph at 2,600 RPM's with 3.55 gears.

I saw this used on one of the car shows I watch, and they said the system senses what fuel is in the line and adjusts for it. Which also required a bigger better fuel pump and oversized injectors for when running the E85. Didn't really look worth it to me, but it was cool to know.

Ah, didn't see that.

The shifting kit that I built works just like the kit that is in the link above and uses governed pressure tapped into the governor pressure test port on the trans. The BIG and main difference between what I built and that kit above is that I used adjustable pressure switches so I can set the...

My line is in the stock location with an external electric pump with filter. Main difference from stock is that it is one 3/8 piece of EFI nylon 12 with no fittings between the pump and carb except for the return line T'd off at the carb and I turned it up in the corner of the inner fender and...

Luckily there are good aftermarket heads that don't break the bank.

It's also possible that it just has air in it from being freshly filled again, and may clear up on it's own as the air bubbles dissipate.

Bearings only spin because the journal sticks to them from lack of lube. Absolutely bolts can stretch, but I wouldn't necessarily say that's why the motor went. It could have stretched when it slammed into the side of the block, or even from the hammering it took when the bearing spun causing...

I'd start with here and Craigslist, and not just your local CL either, as there are plenty of people that want Hemi's. I can't help on worth, but I do know even a needs rebuilt running Hemi alone is worth a good chunk. Then there's the "More money than sense" crowd as well. :D

One thing that stands out to me is this. "But I am not a gearhead" and this "I was left with no vehicle and no funds to take care of it" Sell the Hemi drivetrain. Put a trans in the Suburban and get on with your life. You'll come out of it with a running vehicle and some extra cash to boot...

They make a socket that fits the crank snout.

I used the one that was originally on my 904 after checking for the same fluid depth. I should have known they would be the same since the 904 and the 42RH are the same basic case but with a deeper pan, but I had to verify it.

I also cut off all that extra crap off the trans with a 4" metal cutting wheel and sand disc smoothed them down. You have to leave that top left one and the one threaded post if you plan on using the column style linkage.

I just used the two standard holes like the 904 used and my original spool type trans mount with a modified crossmember. (no good pic though) I did have to spread the mount about an inch or so at the top where it contacts the trans. Also, those tailshafts are a ton stronger than the 904 or 727...

Those things are scary. I remember the first time I saw them from an Intrepid motor, I was like "WTH?".:D

I think you may have to find out and deal with it when it's right in front of you, but there is this quote from another member that said what he did and that the lever and trans matched positions. BUT the lever on the trans is the determining factor obviously. I thought you might need to know...

:D Until I saw your post I was going to suggest exactly that. I have used a AA battery just to be sure they work at all. (+ to one terminal and - to the other)

Right next to the distributor on smallblock mopar motors, if that is what you are asking about. :D

I just use a small paint brush with a little for the splines (barely see it on there actually) The theory on that besides assembly, is that when the clutch disc get released it does'nt bind on the splines causing dragging on the flywheel and crunch going from neutral into reverse. Some believe...

About a 1/4 inch more than the gap between the trans case and the bell housing. You can cut it off with almost anything,(hack saw, cut off wheel, hand grinder) You want to taper the sharp edges also at aprox 45 degress, so I would grease the input shaft and slide it in as far as it will go...

You should go to the correct section and start a new topic on this.

Oh yea they can, because fuel in an injected system really isn't a liquid like we see with carbed engines. The injectors fire a timed mist right before the engine sucks it into the cylinder, so yes a vacuum leak can exist without fuel showing.

A supercharged 6.2 Hemi http://www.briggsdodge.com/blog/supercharged-hemi-v8/

Nobody said they put a Hemi in so they could say they have a Hemi? Come on, I know they are out there.

Yep You are going to want to set that fan up to come on at 210-215 At 180 it would be on most of the time. I use the thermostatic controlled electric setup, and have it set to where the fan will come on at 210 and shut back off at 190 and I'm using a 180 thermostat. (I don't have a Hemi) But...

Generally, the cooler the engine the more power. But, the cooler, the more engine wear also. This is why a lot of racers use a 160.

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