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FYI, if you want to keep the small bolt pattern-- the scarebird conversion has been successfully done numerous times. By the time you pay for these drum brake parts you would be well on your way to converting to disc brakes. Just something to ponder, Lawrence

your car should be large ball joint

As to RRR suggestion-- I had to do an emergency rear wheel cylinder repair on a 67 malibu some years ago,(Sunday evening 2 hours from home)-- so I took the w/c apart, used emery cloth & my finger to hone, cleaned & reused the cups & springs & drove that baby home-- in fact that w/c never failed...

best way is up to you, grind off the head of the stud from the inside or remove the swedge that holds the drum to the hub from the outside. If you press the stud out with out removal of the swedge you will ruin the knurl inside the hub & create another issue. I have a hub or 2 given to me...

yes, wire brush the center hub & lug nuts off. also pound around the diameter --though not as hard as the center. if you have air --blow out the debris you created. I use 2 ball pein hammers of the large variety one next to the surface & the other to strike the hammer-- this does not mar...

before removing your brake line take a wire brush & scrub the connection briskly, add your favorite penetrate scrub again--- a lot of time the line is corroded to the fitting-- take your time & hopefully all your replacing is the cylinder ,Lawrence

you can bend your own , get some standard stock a large 1/2" socket & one of the cheap tubing benders this will work until you find the correct company for the pre -bent stuff, Lawrence. Actually that method is still being used on a 62 valiant I used to own, I used the old line as a pattern.

you don't have an oreilly's close? they need to turn the drum & hub as a unit, should not be a problem-- you need to find an old timer, maybe a mom & pop brake shop. there has to be one in your area. Lawrence

yes you can cut them flush & knock them out, Lawrence

watch out--if your 8 3/4 is an a body rear it has a different offset that most all other rears-- meaning the axles will need changed to match the backing plate. Lawrence

to answer your re-drill question-- no the small 1.75 inch wide drum have specific backing plates & these much match the drums. someone now reproduces the drums & people have had great results with them ,Lawrence

pm sent-- I have a pair of those drums --provided that they are original 73-up style. I do not know of any direct bolt on to change your bolt pattern. Lawrence

the rear brakes appear to be standard mopar stuff, the axle looks to be strange--- so you have an 8 3/4 rear with 8.25 rear brakes-- meaning brakes for your car would work just fine-- tell them it has an 8 1/4" rear end.

ok --now you have issues-- this is where your education needs to tell the shop what you have. what is the bolt pattern on that rear end? it is possible you still have a small bolt rear-- the brake drums/shoes are difficult to come up with on short notice. if the axles have been re-done you...

#1 you owe them $ 0 more #2 if that is your car in the avatar-- you need to learn what you have,, research 8 3/4 rear you car is most likely has an 8 1/4 rear with disc brakes up front very common parts & still readily available. shimming the brake drums makes no sense-- is this shop...

front line to the disc brake caliper ,Lawrence

all you have to do is measure the outside drum-- just remove a tire--- the 7.25 I had like that was 10" brakes-- since you had disc brakes-- that is what my $$ is on.Lawrence

my bet is new shoes without turning the drums-- higher speeds more noticeable due to the extra mount of force required to stop, Lawrence

Yes, that is the easiest way to change your studs. Lawrence

measure them, they should be the larger ball joint. & the aspen /volare swap has been done & many people have had great results. Lawrence

search disc brake swap-- 73-76 mopar a body cars -have all the parts needed to swap to disc brake & the 4.5" bolt circle pattern.(there are variations to this) Not sure if the rear swap would be my first choice-- brakes are bias towards the front brakes- If you are serious about disc...

time for you to get some tools-- or find a local honest fabo member & buy them some food/beverages. start with the obvious-- leaking wheel cylinders will cause serious brake failure & makes the car unsafe to drive.. 9" brake parts are not that hard to find-- you need to do some...

have you checked your rear wheel cylinders? they will build up crude --causing leaks-- whenever your are adding fluid on a regular basis -- you need to stop & fix the problem-- like a transmission-- the brake fluid should remain fairly constant--- your car is unsafe to drive until your brakes...

10.090 is what I've seen ,Lawrence

did you bench bleed the m/c? does the new the new p- valve have air in it? I would start with the m/c-- if bench bled-- then move to the p-valve you installed. pump your brakes & crack the line loose going to the rear-- see if air is present there. if not continue to the rear system--...

Okla-- to the rescue !! an 8.25 should have the same drums as your modified b body 8.75 was what I'm getting at. That drum should fit numerous cars with the 10" diameter rear brakes & 2.5" width. Lawrence

what did you order for the brake drum? try a 73 duster with the 8.25 rear? or a late 60's b body car. It could be the part was mis-boxed. Good luck Lawrence

go to rock auto & see if they are the same part #. LAwrence

the 9" brakes with the finned drums & dual m/c are much better than the single pot 60's cars-- I sold a 73 or so duster with these & it would stop very nicely compared to the earlier version. Lawrence

try this: